Perkins 6-354 Naturals

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Mark Walters

Newbie
Joined
Jun 1, 2018
Messages
4
Location
USA
Vessel Make
Grand Bahamas 42 PH
Hi, looking for experience with Perkins 6-354 natural aspirated engines. I have a Ta-Yang 42 foot Grand Bahama full displacement LRT that is new to me. I cruise at 8 kts, 1000 RPM on the engines, 500 RPM on the shafts. The engines never heat above about 160F. I'm thinking I'm over propped. Thoughts and suggestions welcome.

Thanks
 
Hi, looking for experience with Perkins 6-354 natural aspirated engines. I have a Ta-Yang 42 foot Grand Bahama full displacement LRT that is new to me. I cruise at 8 kts, 1000 RPM on the engines, 500 RPM on the shafts. The engines never heat above about 160F. I'm thinking I'm over propped. Thoughts and suggestions welcome.

Thanks
That RPM sounds really low.
What year engines?

Have you checked RPM with a photo tach?
What is WOT RPM?
How are you measuring speed?
 
I think the engines hp rating is at 2500. It should fully warm even at low rpm. The thermostats may be 160° or are not closing completely. You could install a higher temperature thermostat. Diesels run better at higher temps.
 
Those often cruise at ~2000-2100 rpm.

Can you post a picture of the tag/plate on your injector pump?
What color smoke do you see at cruise? How much?
What is your WOT RPM underway?
What is your WOT RPM in idle at the slip?
Have you checked the gauges with a phototach?
 
Perkins 6-354

Thanks for the great thoughts. I have ordered an optical tac to get a "true" reading on engine RPM. Boat speed is measured with a GPS (SOG) and paddle wheel (STW). Exhaust is white and thin at speed. I can push up to 10 kts at around 1200 RPM but the trannies start to overheat if I do that. Still no black smoke at 1200 RPM. I have attached injector pump plate photo.
 

Attachments

  • injector pump (Medium).jpg
    injector pump (Medium).jpg
    104.4 KB · Views: 40
Perkins 6-354 Mystery Solved

Received optical tach today and got actual engine RPM. Original Tach calibration was off by a factor or 2. The number of polls in the alternators did not match the data sheet leading to the error. What I thought was 1,000 RPM was really 2,000 RPM. Not over propped at all. Still need to solve the thermostat engine heat issue though.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Mark
 
A handheld laser thermometer would be a useful tool to determine the accuracy of your meter, and to identify any other hotspots.
You might also want to verify that there actually is a thermostat installed, and verify its opening temp.
 
OK from the pic of your injection pump, your WOT RPM loaded should be 2800 rpm. Unloaded WOT (high idle) is 3130 rpm. Your target loaded WOT should be 2800-2850 rpm. If you can't reach that it will cause overload conditions.
 
Last edited:
OK from the pic of your injection pump, your WOT RPM loaded should be 2800 rpm. Unloaded WOT (high idle) is 3130 rpm. Your target loaded WOT should be 2800-2850 rpm. If you can't reach that it will cause overload conditions.

I've got the same pump and engine and can confirm what High Wire writes, not that it needs confirmation.

Except, I wouldn't be concerned if it got to 2600 or 2700 as a high under load, especially if full throttle is measured from the controls.

Lower than 2800 isn't ideal for high throttle operations. But, a lot of people do sacrifice some there to bring high cruise down to about 2000 where the engines run quieter and a lower cruise into the 1500 range, where they are really quiet.

The POs of both of my boat's with Perkins added a HUGE amount of pitch to get more power at low throttle where the engines are quieter. I adjusted ithe props to about 100rpm below the pump spec and the controls to stop another 100rpms before that so I can't slam the pump's throttle lever from the human-facing controls.

Also remember that looking at gauges is only an approximation. They can easily be 5% off. And I've seen plenty 10% off. Your shiny new phototach is definitely the way.

Just don't assume WOT is the controls full forward-- there should be a setback. You can check with the boat off. Fully advance the throttle, then go to the engine room and pop the e-clamp off where the cable is attached to the pump or otherwise disconnect it. Then see if you can advance the throttle lever a but more. Then check again with the throttle lever fully advanced to see if the cable will slide right back on or is too short. Then, when done, adjustbthebthrottlemlevernsonthe cable fits back on and clamp it back or otherwise reattach it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom