Photo of wood core of 1985 circa KK42 decks

[JDCAVE]

Does anyone have a photo of the exposed wood core of a ~1985 KK42. I believe there were some changes over the years from plywood to balsa core. I’m interested if some one has ever opened up the decks to expose the core.

Thanks! Jim

 

[JDCAVE]

If found what I was looking for. During their refit, Scott and Caroline exposed the core in the decks on their KK42. Yowsah that’s a big job!

 

[Sealife]

Jim, glad you found what you needed. Sorry we didn’t document the repairs more thoroughly with many more photos. If we documented it like we should have, I don’t know if I would have finished given the time we had to complete everything.

Let me know if you have specific questions, I can try to answer.

 

[Larry M]

Jim: Here’s a side deck core sample from when the new fuel fills went in. Our fore and aft sub-decks are plywood I haven’t found any balsa core on Hobo....yet.

 

[JDCAVE]

Thanks Scott and Larry. Larry: what is the thickness of the FRP on top of the wood core and also the thickness of the wood core?

Scott: how did you diagnose your deck issues? Also, had the FRP separated from the core? It looks to me that you did have rot. Could you smell that in the cabin spaces? The reason I’m asking is I am debating with my surveyor about the “health” of my decks as he indicates that “soundings” indicates some delamination of the glass from the wood core. He’s got it down as a deficiency with the following statement that these deficiencies must re fixed within 30 days. My shipwright has questioned those conclusions and they don’t seem logical to me. There is no springiness in the decks anywhere and no indication to me that we have any leaks.

The PO removed the teal decks at the time he replaced the fuel tanks. He reported that the only leaking he had identified when the tanks were removed was around the filler pipe and that caused the rising and failure. The PO, drilled out the screw holes and at that time they could not identify wood rot. He then filled the holes with thickened epoxy and painted with awl grip after prep. My shipwright said it isn’t how he would have done the fix (he probably would have put a layer of glass and epoxy down) but he doesn’t think they are failing by any means.

Jim

 

[Sealife]

Jim,

The port flybridge area would deflect under foot due to core deterioration from chain plate leak. The bow area showed wet on moisture meter and sounded delaminated when tapped. The issue was when the teak decks where removed they skipped the section under the pulpit not wanting to remove it. With the angle of the bow, the water ran aft. The chain locker was a bit musty. I agree with your shipwright on trak removal. The deck should be built back up to original level including the use of a top layer of glass. My side decks do not drain as they should due to only glass used (I would like to have seen 1/4 foam core, then the layers of glass to equal the original 3/8” teak).

If your shipwright questions the survey findings, investigate yourself and or hire a second opinion to contradict and send to Insurance/finance companies to release you of repairs.

 

[Larry M]

....Larry: what is the thickness of the FRP on top of the wood core and also the thickness of the wood core?...

Jim: The upper layer of FRP looks like 1/4”. The wood core is ~3/4”. The cores from both side decks were the same layup.

 

[JDCAVE]

Jim,

I agree with your shipwright on teak removal. The deck should be built back up to original level including the use of a top layer of glass. My side decks do not drain as they should due to only glass used (I would like to have seen 1/4 foam core, then the layers of glass to equal the original 3/8” teak).

If your shipwright questions the survey findings, investigate yourself and or hire a second opinion to contradict and send to Insurance/finance companies to release you of repairs.

Thanks Scott and Larry. Scott: the PO found that water pooled on the side decks, even when the teaks were in place. He installed flush-deck scuppers on the side decks and they work quite well, when not clogged with dog and cat hair! Howard’s markings are sharper than Lilly’s otherwise they’d be twins!



Well, I moved the surveyor off from “fix within 30 days” to “monitor” which of course we do. Second opinions are expensive! The first opinion was almost a grand and I did most of the work for him. He wasn’t even aware of deadman’s handles on ball valves. If you’re ever up our way we’ll chat over a beer or 3.

 

[Sealife]

Sounds good Jim. If you need any other specifics about refit, PM me or contact through blog.