Port lights

[GBNI]

Has anyone removed and resealed a stainless port light window?
I have 1998 MY and suspect a leaking fitting.
Just wondering how easy/difficult this is before I start.

Apologies for photo angle

I should add that ingress is not visible on inside of port but behind headliner nearby.

 

[Brooksie]

Make sure it is not the seal b/c that is easily replaced w/o removing the whole port.
If it is the caulking, there is caulking remover (3M makes a good one) that can help you. Work carefully and after removing the fasteners, drive a sharpened butty knife in adding caulking remover beside it as you go around the flange, Give it time to work, cover your deck, wont hurt gelcoat, don't rush it and after a couple times around you will be through the caulking and should be able to push the port out.

 

[Comodave]

I have not resealed portholes but I did replace 11 plastic portholes on our last boat with New Found Metals 316 S/S portholes. I had to enlarge the holes in the hull side a bit so I used a router to do that. I used butyl tape to install the new portholes. I absolutely would not use any caulk because it will let go and leak. The butyl will give and stay sealed. It is a Pain to install the butyl because it is very sticky. It comes with a very slick paper between the rolls of the butyl. I used that to push the butyl into the gap with the handle end of a plastic kitchen spatula. There needs to be enough gap between the porthole and the hull so that you can push the butyl all the way into the gap and then fill the gap as you go. I used clamps to squeeze the portholes together not the screws since it will probably strip the screws in order to get enough pressure to squeeze the butyl. It usually takes tightening over 3 days to get the butyl compressed. But if you do it right the portholes will never leak again.

Marinehowto.com has a good article on how to do this. Excellent website.

 

[Datenight]

Has anyone removed and resealed a stainless port light window?
I have 1998 MY and suspect a leaking fitting.
Just wondering how easy/difficult this is before I start.

Apologies for photo angle

I should add that ingress is not visible on inside of port but behind headliner nearby.

I have done it. First remove all the screws holding the trim ring in. Use a heat gun on the lower setting. Spend 3-5 minutes moving the gun in a circular motion around the trim ring. Keep the heat on the metal. Hold it about 2" from the surface. After 5 minutes you should be able to work a stiff putty knife behind the ring. Pry gently. If it does not begin to move, go another 2 minutes with the heat gun.

You can also use cedar shingles as a wedge to work the port out. Be careful not to mar the fiberglass. I use blue painters tape. It takes time but works well.

Rob