So... we found out the hard way when our waste tank has reached capacity... it seems our Full tank light comes on and then it has reached the absolute max.... no room for anymore. We were trying to be good new boat owners and were using plenty of water in our techma toilets. Anyway we woke up to a slight overflow dribble out of the waste port that has stained our fiberglass deck. Any advice as to what to use to remove this? Our boat has been recently detailed so the fiberglass has been waxed but it stained anyway.
"Potty" stains from waste overflow
- Thread starter Julsburd
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Julsburd... I don't have an answer for your question but were you on the Manatee River Sunday, headed toward Egmont Key, and then reversed course just before you got there? We saw a boat with the name Assisted Living that looked like the one in your avatar photo. We were on Wanderlust, behind you and later to your port side. We spent several minutes admiring the lines of your boat.
John
John
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It was a gorgeous day. Congratulations on your new boat. Where are you keeping her?
BTW, your AIS still transmits as Mele Kai.
Regarding your stains... maybe try Bar Keepers Friend or Ospho (phosphoric acid) but be careful with that last one. When one of our kids spilled red wine on our fiberglass and we didn’t notice it until the next morning, Bar Keepers Friend took it off for us. Might work for you. You’ll need to reward the area afterward.
John
BTW, your AIS still transmits as Mele Kai.
Regarding your stains... maybe try Bar Keepers Friend or Ospho (phosphoric acid) but be careful with that last one. When one of our kids spilled red wine on our fiberglass and we didn’t notice it until the next morning, Bar Keepers Friend took it off for us. Might work for you. You’ll need to reward the area afterward.
John
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Hey, we’re in Riviera Dunes, also. Center Dock, C15. Small world. Swing by and say hi sometime. We’re there most every weekend.
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You can try Spray Nine to remove the stain. I'd rewax the area though. You could also try a little cleaner and wax and see if that will remove the stain. I've removed concentrated blue holding tank chemicals from fiberglass.
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. J. Why is waste staining your deck? Any, inadvertent, overflow waste should be coming out your tank vent which should be on the exterior of the hull NOT the pump out deck fitting.
I might speculate that your vent line is blocked by mud daubers or spider guck/dirt, of some sort. Could be you have an in-line charcoal type filter for odor control and it's dead/blocked. I would advise, if you DO have some sort of filter, that you remove it. IMO not worth the hassle and totally and completely unnecessary!
As they say in polite company "Poop occurs" (S*** happens).
Nice looking boat.
Mr. J. Why is waste staining your deck? Any, inadvertent, overflow waste should be coming out your tank vent which should be on the exterior of the hull NOT the pump out deck fitting.
I might speculate that your vent line is blocked by mud daubers or spider guck/dirt, of some sort. Could be you have an in-line charcoal type filter for odor control and it's dead/blocked. I would advise, if you DO have some sort of filter, that you remove it. IMO not worth the hassle and totally and completely unnecessary!
As they say in polite company "Poop occurs" (S*** happens).
Nice looking boat.
Comodave
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Yes, any overflow should come out of the vent. Second on removing any vent filter. If the vent is clogged shut the holding tank can be crushed from the vacuum when you pump out. As to the stain I like Spray 9 also or maybe Fiberglass Stain Remover. FSR is an acid in a sort of gel that is really good for rust stains, not sure about poop.
Crusty Chief
Guru
First off, your vent outlet ( ours is on the starboard outboard side of the stairs) should have let you know by draining. The filter should be in the starboard hanging locker of the master cabin. You’ll need to remove a shelf and one panel.
Anyway’s, if your draining from the pump out that is built into the Portuguese Bridge and its well above the vent you might need to replace the O ring on the cap.
FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover) should do the job. Just dont let it set too long as it will turn things blue, Trust me on this one. Then re wax the area.
If you need any other help, don’t hesitate to ask.
And welcome to TF! Cheers
Anyway’s, if your draining from the pump out that is built into the Portuguese Bridge and its well above the vent you might need to replace the O ring on the cap.
FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover) should do the job. Just dont let it set too long as it will turn things blue, Trust me on this one. Then re wax the area.
If you need any other help, don’t hesitate to ask.
And welcome to TF! Cheers
Thx. Your info is really nice. We had located the filter prior to the dribble but didn’t have a spare for replacement. Peggy “the waste guru”doesn’t like vents so we were wondering about removing it and connecting the 2 ends with plain hose. What are your thoughts especially as a Selene owner.
Peggy “the waste guru”doesn’t like vents so we were wondering about removing it and connecting the 2 ends with plain hose.
It's vent line FILTERS that I don't like!
(I'm sure that's what you meant, but I've been online long enough to know that someone is sure to take your comment literally and aim a blowtorch in my direction...<sigh>)
I agree with RT...sounds like you have a blocked tank vent that's seriously pressurized the tank. So be very careful when you open the deck pumpout fitting, 'cuz there's gonna be a spew or at least a major overflow. (And btw, RT...the polite version is actually "doodoo doth occur.")
Instead of piecing your vent line together after you remove the vent line, why not just buy a few more feet of hose (Shields or Trident # 148 flex PVC is fine for vent lines) and run new one? And while you're at it, replace the vent thru-hull with an open bulkhead thru-hull that you can put a hose nozzle against to backflush the vent line every time you wash the boat and/or pump out.
--Peggie
It's vent line FILTERS that I don't like!
(I'm sure that's what you meant, but I've been online long enough to know that someone is sure to take your comment literally and aim a blowtorch in my direction...<sigh>)
I agree with RT...sounds like you have a blocked tank vent that's seriously pressurized the tank. So be very careful when you open the deck pumpout fitting, 'cuz there's gonna be a spew or at least a major overflow. (And btw, RT...the polite version is actually "doodoo doth occur.")
Instead of piecing your vent line together after you remove the vent line, why not just buy a few more feet of hose (Shields or Trident # 148 flex PVC is fine for vent lines) and run new one? And while you're at it, replace the vent thru-hull with an open bulkhead thru-hull that you can put a hose nozzle against to backflush the vent line every time you wash the boat and/or pump out.
--Peggie
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Comodave
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Holding tanks aren’t specific to a brand, Selene owner or not doesn’t matter. Holding tank systems are holding tank systems. Listen to Peggie, no matter what else someone says, Peggie is the expert.
Sorry Peggy. It was a typo not to add "filter"...
For the time being we have ordered a new filter to replace the obviously plugged one. We will not have the time to replace the hose and vent outlet just yet but in the meantime replacing the filter will be the best option. We have your book already and I have referred to it a lot. Thank you! We are learning to adjust to life aboard our boat and the use of our "potties" is an important part! What do you think about using eco friendly, fast dissolving TP? We are learning that we should be using marina facilities as much as possible, adding extra flush water, and eventually getting rid of the vent filter will all help but we'd like to actually enjoy the convenience of having on board toilets too! Again thanks for responding so quickly and for your sound advice!
For the time being we have ordered a new filter to replace the obviously plugged one. We will not have the time to replace the hose and vent outlet just yet but in the meantime replacing the filter will be the best option. We have your book already and I have referred to it a lot. Thank you! We are learning to adjust to life aboard our boat and the use of our "potties" is an important part! What do you think about using eco friendly, fast dissolving TP? We are learning that we should be using marina facilities as much as possible, adding extra flush water, and eventually getting rid of the vent filter will all help but we'd like to actually enjoy the convenience of having on board toilets too! Again thanks for responding so quickly and for your sound advice!
When we first got our (used) Selene 47, we discovered the holding tank vent was blocked because the tank began to expand like a balloon as we pumped more stuff (!!) into it.
Problem was identified after tank expansion raised deck floor slightly to make shutting head door difficult and squashed depth sounder cables affecting instrument read-outs. We got it just in time!!! Could have been **** load worse!! The original vent was way too small, bronze and had a right angle bend.
I guess your tank just got so full that pumping more into it just fed the contents up the vent line all the way 8ft up to the inboard Portugueses bridge air vent outlet.
It is quite easy to adjust the "floats" in the level gauge so that "FULL" does not mean "REALLY VERY COMPLETELY FULL". If similar to mine, you do need to open the tank to do it but not too messy if you flush well and add bleach before hand.
Finally, my experience with the Selene Tecma was that if anything it added more water than necessary, so no need to over flush.
Problem was identified after tank expansion raised deck floor slightly to make shutting head door difficult and squashed depth sounder cables affecting instrument read-outs. We got it just in time!!! Could have been **** load worse!! The original vent was way too small, bronze and had a right angle bend.
I guess your tank just got so full that pumping more into it just fed the contents up the vent line all the way 8ft up to the inboard Portugueses bridge air vent outlet.
It is quite easy to adjust the "floats" in the level gauge so that "FULL" does not mean "REALLY VERY COMPLETELY FULL". If similar to mine, you do need to open the tank to do it but not too messy if you flush well and add bleach before hand.
Finally, my experience with the Selene Tecma was that if anything it added more water than necessary, so no need to over flush.
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Crusty Chief
Guru
With regards to the tank vent filter, we are planning to use Peggies suggestion to just remove the filter and install a new line for more efficient air movement. Plus, I think she’s spot on about flushing the line occasionally. I know we probably plugged the filter with too much stuff in the tank and rolling a bit at sea. Filters cost from $75 to $150 and I’m beginning to think they are a scam. And Tom on ASD makes his own out of PVC and bulk charcoal.
With regards to the gauge not working. On the top of your black waste tank are two Removable panels. The one with wires coming out of it are your level sensor’s. We just unscrew the big plastic ring every year or so, and remove the sensors and housing as one unit. Then plug the hole with a old towel (it helps if you do this right after a pump out or discrage). Set The Whole assemble in a bucket and let it soak in a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water for a few hours. Sometimes I have to use an old toothbrush to assist in removing “stuff”. Before you reinstall the assembly back in the tank, move the sensors up and down the plastic bar and watch the tank gauge to make sure it works right. Ours has 3 floats, and the bottom one is for first light and the top one is for the red light. I do remove a few of the cable ties so that the wiring doesn’t get all twisted up while removing and reinstalling the assemble into the tank. By the way, we have an FRP tank. Pretty sure all the Selene’s are FRP but dont quote me on that one.
Best of luck!
With regards to the gauge not working. On the top of your black waste tank are two Removable panels. The one with wires coming out of it are your level sensor’s. We just unscrew the big plastic ring every year or so, and remove the sensors and housing as one unit. Then plug the hole with a old towel (it helps if you do this right after a pump out or discrage). Set The Whole assemble in a bucket and let it soak in a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water for a few hours. Sometimes I have to use an old toothbrush to assist in removing “stuff”. Before you reinstall the assembly back in the tank, move the sensors up and down the plastic bar and watch the tank gauge to make sure it works right. Ours has 3 floats, and the bottom one is for first light and the top one is for the red light. I do remove a few of the cable ties so that the wiring doesn’t get all twisted up while removing and reinstalling the assemble into the tank. By the way, we have an FRP tank. Pretty sure all the Selene’s are FRP but dont quote me on that one.
Best of luck!
Or better yet, replace your existing tank level monitor with one that uses senders that attach to the outside of the tank and never have to clean the senders again.
Practical Sailor rated SCAD the best. If your existing system is a Dometic/SeaLand TankWatch, the existing wiring will work with a SCAD. Scad Tank Monitors.
--Peggie
Practical Sailor rated SCAD the best. If your existing system is a Dometic/SeaLand TankWatch, the existing wiring will work with a SCAD. Scad Tank Monitors.
--Peggie
What do you think about using eco friendly, fast dissolving TP?
If your toilets are Tecma or Raritan Marine Elegance, they can chew up any toilet paper. But any TP that can pass this test is safe to use in any marine toilet:
Tear off a couple of sheets and put 'em in a mason jar or glass of water. Come back in an hour and shake the jar or stir the glass. If the water is milky and all you see is "snow" that TP is can safely be flushed through any marine toilet. But if the sheets are still intact or even mostly intact, try another brand.
Instead of installing another filter, try switching from whatever tank product you're using now (that obviously isn't working or you wouldn't need a filter) to No-Flex Digestor Noflex Digestor Not only does it PREVENT odor out the vent in most systems, but it also digests/dissolves sludge and helps to keep the tank walls clean.
--Peggie
If your toilets are Tecma or Raritan Marine Elegance, they can chew up any toilet paper. But any TP that can pass this test is safe to use in any marine toilet:
Tear off a couple of sheets and put 'em in a mason jar or glass of water. Come back in an hour and shake the jar or stir the glass. If the water is milky and all you see is "snow" that TP is can safely be flushed through any marine toilet. But if the sheets are still intact or even mostly intact, try another brand.
Instead of installing another filter, try switching from whatever tank product you're using now (that obviously isn't working or you wouldn't need a filter) to No-Flex Digestor Noflex Digestor Not only does it PREVENT odor out the vent in most systems, but it also digests/dissolves sludge and helps to keep the tank walls clean.
--Peggie
It would have to be a pretty thin walled FRP tank to split. And your plastic tank has to be a top quality thick-walled tank or it would have split--and could have anyway if you'd kept flushing. In either case, if you'd kept flushing/increasing the pressure, it's highly likely that the tank contents would have escaped via the only available route, turning your toilet into "Old Faithful" while your finger was still on the flush button. And before you ask...No, the joker valve wouldn't have stopped it...that much pressure turns a joker valve inside out.
--Peggie
SailorGreg
Senior Member
For cleaning stains on glass, my favorite technique is to first try a cleaner/wax. If that doesn’t work I go to 3M FinesseIt glaze, then follow up w wax. Quick and easy and no mess.
All good advice. Thank you! When we get back to the boat we'll try a cleaner/wax for the stain and then we'll figure out what we need to do to the vent filter situation. Glad to hear that it's Ok to use TP! Hopefully the pump out went ok while we were gone. Assuming no news is good news?? On another subject... would the Selene owners who responded to my post with such informative help, be interested in beginning a "Selene" section in the Manufacturers area of this forum? I think it would be a very direct way to share specific info about our particular boats? I asked the forum management about doing this and they tell me to "talk it up in the forum" but then I don't have the ability to make the administrative changes on the actual website??
Crusty Chief
Guru
Might be a good Idea. I think we have about a dozen or so Selene owners that contribute on a regular basis, maybe a few more that are somewhat active.
Got my vote!
Got my vote!
Maerin
Guru
His Selene is one that's configured as mine is, with no vent penetrations direct to seaward, other than thru-hulls, all of which are equipped with thru hull valves. The engine room air vents, fresh air inlets, all the tank fills, vents, any penetration of that sort is located in the protected area of the portuguese bridge or walkways. My take is that it's part of the "Ocean Trawler" design mindset. Tank fills are all inset into the bulkhead. If the fuel vent pukes because you're over-filling, it pukes onto the deck rather than directly into the water. Gives you a chance to catch it. Good for the environment, but maybe not so good if the boat is fitted with teak decks! Later hulls have exterior vents for water/waste. Fuel vents, AFAIK remain in the same configuration.
BTW, to the OP, the stain may be gone till you return. Exposure to UV removes a lot of stains! If it still needs help and the barkeeper's friend isn't enough, On & Off will do the trick. Be careful, it will LITERALLY strip your skin. You'll find where you splashed your shorts when they come out of the wash.
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BrianSmith
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We had the same problem with our Tankwatch system - the "FULL" light came on when the tank was FULL!!!!! I solved that problem by ordering a single float sensor assembly from SeaLand and installing it so that its float is about 5 or 6 flushes below FULL!!!!!, then switched the wires from the existing FULL sensor to the new one. Simple solution, works great, and the cost of the single sensor float assembly was under US$100, I think. (Our system came with the 3-sensors-in-one unit, and the FULL sensor on that unit isn't adjustable. I'm guessing yours is the same.)
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. M. Thanks for the information. I've never met anyone rich enough to own a Selene much less been on one.
I DO like the idea of fuel vents inboard. I'm super paranoid of a puke-out from the tank vent when fueling. If we were keeping the boat I'd look into moving ours inboard.
Mr. M. Thanks for the information. I've never met anyone rich enough to own a Selene much less been on one.
I DO like the idea of fuel vents inboard. I'm super paranoid of a puke-out from the tank vent when fueling. If we were keeping the boat I'd look into moving ours inboard.
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