Promariner ProIsoCharge 1-3 Not Working

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DBG8492

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2023
Messages
281
Vessel Name
Sovereignty
Vessel Make
1986 Marine Trader 36 Sundeck
So we just splashed after about 9 months on the hard. We did no engine or wiring work at all.

The engine runs well - vibrates a little at idle for reasons I can't figure out, but runs super smooth just like it did before we hauled. And if it is like it was before we hauled, there's little to no vibration when it's in gear so...

However, this post is because the alternator isn't charging and the ProIsoCharge isn't even coming on. No lights at all when I turn on the ignition and it doesn't come on when the engine is running. I'm 99% certain that without that, not only will it not charge, but the tach won't work either because there's no field. Someone correct me if that's wrong, but I'm fairly sure that's the deal.

I've checked the postive input (from ignition) on the IsoCharge and it's got 12v and the ground is good.

The only thing I can think of is that the sailboat next us on the hard was struck by lightning in December while we were out of town. It made a complete mess of all his electronics, but I tested everything on my boat - EXCEPT for the IsoCharge - just didn't remember to test it. I'm betting it's just fried.

So, if that's the case, and I need to get underway tomorrow, can I use a 1/2/Both selector switch to feed the alternator and put the start and thruster banks on 1 and 2, and charge them both? The house bank isn't as important underway and I have a 30 amp charger wired in that I can switch on when we're on shore power at night to charge it if necessary. The start is a single 12v and the thruster is 2 12v in parallel.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 
Just got off the phone with ProMariner support

They said if I have voltage between the two positive and negative pins on the unit, but it's not lighting up, then it's a dead stick.

So yeah - how do I get my thruster and start batteries charging so I can get underway tomorrow?
 
So I tried wiring the alternator directly to the start battery - just to test and see if it works.

It doesn't.

I seem to remember a wire that needs to be connected to the alternator from the oil pressure sensor or switch - let me see if I can find it.
 
Okay so - I found the oil pressure switch. With the key on and the engine off, there's 12v on one side after you start the engine, the switch closes and there's 12v on both sides - so the switch works which means the alternator is also bad.

So now my question is this: I have the American Diesel Super 136 - is there an alternator I can just go buy at an auto parts store that will work or do I have to order it from American Diesel? We are on the dock at the yard - which is not terrible, but they're being nice letting us stay here and I don't know how long that will last. No one hauled today so it was easy for them, but when they're busy, we're going to be in the way. I'd like to get something and get moving ASAP.
 
The greatest likelyhood is that your alternator simply needs its diodes replaced. Any alternator shop in your area should be able to do that very quickly and inexpensively. All of the alternators installed on Super 135s were automotive or truck items. Finding a replacement for yours might be a challenge. Pull your alternator and surf the web.
 
The greatest likelyhood is that your alternator simply needs its diodes replaced. Any alternator shop in your area should be able to do that very quickly and inexpensively. All of the alternators installed on Super 135s were automotive or truck items. Finding a replacement for yours might be a challenge. Pull your alternator and surf the web.
We got trapped on the coast of central Florida due to weather, and the fact that I ran out of PTO. So we are staying here for at least two weeks to get this - and the bow thruster - fixed.

I already ordered another regulator - a Balmar this time - and a brand new Fet-based charge isolator. I will get both of those installed and continue to troubleshoot if that doesn't solve the problem.

But based on the fact that the shop said the alternator was charging with a field current applied, I'm going to say the alternator is probably good - but you never know...
 
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