Propeller puller recommendations

[AKDoug]

I have always used the prop puller in the boatyard for my seasonal pull, but am preparing for a trip to Mexico and am getting my ducks in a row. I have a spare prop, and I hope to not injure the one on my boat, but believe in being prepared.

Shelling out $400 for a puller seems excessive, prop is an 18" X 13P Michigan Wheel. I am hoping for a little input on a reliable puller for 1 1/4" shaft pullers from someone else who pulls their own props for servicing...

The "C" clamp type pullers say they are for ski boat props and I am not sure they would work, but they look simple and reliable...

 

[rslifkin]

I bought one on ebay a couple of years ago that looks just like this. Basically 2 pieces of machined aluminum, threaded rod and nuts. I've only used it a couple of times, but it's pulled my 22x25 props off the 1.5" shafts no problem. The are are 2 sets of holes so you can either use 3 or 4 rods to pull a 3 or 4 blade prop.

 

[AKDoug]

I have been using a Minderman that the boatyard owns. Considering the potential for having to pull and replace in the water, having a lot of small parts to assemble and to manipulate is concerning. The least number of parts and the easier it is to manipulate in the water the more desirable the system.

Thank you for your input

 

[Comodave]

I made my puller. Simple to do. Two pieces of 3/8” steel plate. Cut a slot in one to go around the shaft and drill holes for 1/2” bolts. Spacing depends on how many blades your prop has. The ones on the boat I made this puller for were 4 blades. I bought heavy duty bolts, maybe grade 8, don’t remember now. Worked great just tighten alternating bolts until the prop pops off. One of mine sounded like a gunshot when it came off, the other one didn’t make a noise.

 

[DNT99611]

I have a homemade one like Comodave has. It works just fine on props up to 24 inch. Might work on larger ones but I have not tried it on one.

 

[Comodave]

The props on that boat were 24” diameter but it would work on bigger ones too if you make it for the correct size.

 

[Arc]

I would suggest you remove your prop before the trip. Do a good ‘ lap’ job . Then install it back on. Should you need to remove it , it will be much easier. Especially if you can’t haul the boat.

 

[psneeld]

I have always used the prop puller in the boatyard for my seasonal pull, but am preparing for a trip to Mexico and am getting my ducks in a row. I have a spare prop, and I hope to not injure the one on my boat, but believe in being prepared.

Shelling out $400 for a puller seems excessive, prop is an 18" X 13P Michigan Wheel. I am hoping for a little input on a reliable puller for 1 1/4" shaft pullers from someone else who pulls their own props for servicing...

The "C" clamp type pullers say they are for ski boat props and I am not sure they would work, but they look simple and reliable...

I have used a lot of the threaded rod type pullers, occasionally a hydraulic one and when I worked at a Sea Ray dealership...almost exclusively the C-clamp type on vessels up to 54 feet and 80,000 pounds. Once even used the slide hammer and hammer the nut types.

The guys at the dealership loved the C-clamp for ease and simplicity and quickly got the job done...and while they often worked...occasionally only the hydraulic type would get the job done.

So... I really can't say what is better or best...but the most stubborn props almost always needed immense heat to pop....and one or two propane torches were not enough unless a very small prop as the bleed off the heat fast.

 

[SteveandZoila]

clockwise and counter clockwise nuts

You might want to explore what your boat tread is. Don't ask me why I think its good info!

 

[jgwinks]

I made a rig similar to Comodave's to pull my shaft bearings, also used it on the props. Worked pretty well. That was with 1 1/2" shafts and 24" props. Used 1/2" rod and nuts and 1/4" steel plate. The plate started to bend pulling the bearings so I cut another two pieces to back them up, that did the trick. 1/2" would have been better but harder to cut out, plus I had a lot of the 1/4" laying around. Put 2 washers under each nut and put grease between those. Also a good rap with a big hammer on the side of the prop hub after tensioning the rig will break the taper's grip.
Last time I saw a pro remove a prop he used what I think they call a prop knocker, a sort of big brass acorn nut loosely screwed into the shaft. 3 or 4 whacks with a hammer and the prop just popped off. Can't do that under water, but you can with the other kind of puller so maybe no need to haul out.

 

[syjos]

I've purchased many pullers at marine consignment stores, swap meets and Craigs list. Usually pay $40 to $70.

My favorite type is below.

Easy to use and with parallel threaded rods, increased leverage/pulling power. And, the threaded rods can be replaced when they get stripped, which they will, no matter how careful.

 

[DNT99611]

AKDoug are you planning on running your Willard down to Mexico?

 

[AKDoug]

Yes, Mexico aye! I am deep into preparations, spare everything and mass quantities of filters (fuel, oil, water) and alternator belts, as well as spare props for vessel and outboard. I really like the "C" clamp type for ease of carrying, but not sure they will fit my prop (Acme 330) and hate to give up very much space or $$$.

There is only so much space on a 30' boat, and it will all have to be packed with a shoehorn to get it in

 

[DNT99611]

That will be one heck of a trip in a 30 foot boat, even a big 30 footer!

 

[AKDoug]

30' sailboats do it all the time, I am confident with my ballasted and sailboat "like" hull and fuel consumption it won't be too big a deal. My range is over 1000 miles on 150 gallons, quite a bit more when I slow down.

Running the Fiords and to the Sound from Seward is just about the same as most days running distance wise. With decent weather windows I'll get it done