My holding tank plumbing was installed before I bought the boat in 1994. Within a few years I replaced all that was easy to get at, but not the hose that attaches at the deck connection. The part of that hose at the tank end cried out this summer, so I finally got to it.
I found that getting at the hose to fitting connection under the deck was not possible, as the space where it is located is in front of the fuel tank and behind the ER forward bulkhead, a space of about 10". That space also contains the discharge hose for the genset exhaust. In order to access that space, first the water lift muffler would need to be removed, along with the discharge hose, the ductwork for the Espar Heater that was my primary source of heat but has been removed, the hydraulic pump for the AP, and a large amount of wiring. I did disconnect the bottom end of that Holding Tank discharge, and found that as it entered the ER, still below the floor, there was a 90° elbow. From the elbow up, the hose was in very good condition, still clean on the inside. It might never have been used, so I made the executive decision and left that part in place.
I decided to add a shut off valve at the tank end. I bought a PVC 1.5" valve, but when I took it to the boat, found that the white, special for head plumbing, hose is too thin to properly fit into the valve body, and the hard PVC pipe that fits into the valve body is too large in diameter to stretch the hose over it. The tank fitting is a brass 1.5" barb, the same as where other hoses attach, so no issue connecting the hose to it, but no easy way to connect hard PVC pipe to it.
I ended up using a rubber connector designed to connect 2 pieces of hard pipe, but soft enough to squeeze down onto the hose. At the tank end, Brass barb, PVC hose, rubber connector to hard PVC pipe, to valve. Valve to pipe, pipe to a PVC1 (grey) T, then deck hose and macerator hose.
I googled the melting temp of PVC, found that boiling temp of water was almost there. To connect the hoses and the pipe onto the T, a pot of boiling water softened both the hose and the pipe, enough to slip them both onto the T. Because the pipe stretched a little and when cool, stayed stretched, I also glued that connection. All connections are also clamped.
Good for another 40 yrs? I hope so, as getting down and dirty, working in the bilge, yucck....not my idea of a good day boating.
I found that getting at the hose to fitting connection under the deck was not possible, as the space where it is located is in front of the fuel tank and behind the ER forward bulkhead, a space of about 10". That space also contains the discharge hose for the genset exhaust. In order to access that space, first the water lift muffler would need to be removed, along with the discharge hose, the ductwork for the Espar Heater that was my primary source of heat but has been removed, the hydraulic pump for the AP, and a large amount of wiring. I did disconnect the bottom end of that Holding Tank discharge, and found that as it entered the ER, still below the floor, there was a 90° elbow. From the elbow up, the hose was in very good condition, still clean on the inside. It might never have been used, so I made the executive decision and left that part in place.
I decided to add a shut off valve at the tank end. I bought a PVC 1.5" valve, but when I took it to the boat, found that the white, special for head plumbing, hose is too thin to properly fit into the valve body, and the hard PVC pipe that fits into the valve body is too large in diameter to stretch the hose over it. The tank fitting is a brass 1.5" barb, the same as where other hoses attach, so no issue connecting the hose to it, but no easy way to connect hard PVC pipe to it.
I ended up using a rubber connector designed to connect 2 pieces of hard pipe, but soft enough to squeeze down onto the hose. At the tank end, Brass barb, PVC hose, rubber connector to hard PVC pipe, to valve. Valve to pipe, pipe to a PVC1 (grey) T, then deck hose and macerator hose.
I googled the melting temp of PVC, found that boiling temp of water was almost there. To connect the hoses and the pipe onto the T, a pot of boiling water softened both the hose and the pipe, enough to slip them both onto the T. Because the pipe stretched a little and when cool, stayed stretched, I also glued that connection. All connections are also clamped.
Good for another 40 yrs? I hope so, as getting down and dirty, working in the bilge, yucck....not my idea of a good day boating.
