Replacement solenoid for windlass

[winty]

Need a replacement for a up only ideal windlass. I don't know the motor specs, but I have 100' of BBB chain, 34' boat. I've found marine "windlass" solenoids for over $100. But then there are winch and diesel truck starter solenoid options for around $10. And suggestions on a non marine $$ option?

Thanks in advance.

 

[winty]

Example.
Amazon.com: NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 300A IN RUSH 1114208: Automotive

 

[psneeld]

Example.
Amazon.com: NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 300A IN RUSH 1114208: Automotive

I used one like that for 2 years till I went ahead and bought a reversing capable solenoid as my winless was designed for either.

Just mount it in a dry location or a box. Best if it isn't body grounded, find one with an insulated ground.

 

[FF]

Solenoids can be paired if you need more Amps.

 

[caltexflanc]

A picture would help. Call Ideal. They can tell you what you need, and if you like sell you one that is rubber coated. I've used both theirs and standard Cole Hersee solenoids (which I sprayed with Corrosion X after installation).

 

[rwidman]

Solenoids can be paired if you need more Amps.

I don't think that's a good idea. One will make contact before the other and for a very short time it will carry all the current. I would expect the contacts to burn and eventually fail. That will leave the other carrying all the current and it could fail by overheating and catching fire.

It should be fairly easy to find the correct solenoid in the first place.

These "solenoids" are often referred to as "contactors". It's really a relay, not a solenoid.

 

[Xsbank]

Cole Hersey is good, I added a second solenoid to run the Ideal downwards too, rather than releasing the clutch and letting it free fall. The motor is a starter motor off a 56 Chev, or something similar and doesn't need "marine" - just keep them dry. You can look at the breaker that has been used forever in your windlass circuit and spec the solenoid based on that.

 

[rwidman]

The simplest thing to do is replace the defective part with an exact replacement. You know it will work and all the cables and mounting holes will be in the right place.

 

[Rusty]

I'd contact Cliffe at Ideal (idealwindlass.com) before pursuing other options. They have most all parts for their products going way back. They had all the parts for my 38 year old windlass. In my case, the model was on the motor. CMW, I believe.

 

[jleonard]

It's really a relay, not a solenoid

Correct.
I have one of those generic automotive relays aboard in my spare parts inventory...I would use it for the Lehman or windlass if needed.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

On my bow, I had these solenoids that were mechanical, meaning when you pushed on the button, it drove a rod which activated the switch. I replaced them with these from WM.


WEST MARINE Covered Waterproof Foot Switch | West Marine

 

[caltexflanc]

On my bow, I had these solenoids that were mechanical, meaning when you pushed on the button, it drove a rod which activated the switch. I replaced them with these from WM.


WEST MARINE Covered Waterproof Foot Switch | West Marine

Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.

 

[mbevins]

Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.

The specs on it say it's rated at 150amps. Personally I'm with you on this. I'm more comfortable feeding a relay/solenoid from the foot switch and letting the relay rated at (150amps + ) take the load. With this switch you're relying on foot pressure to close the contacts. Not a very consistent procedure.

 

[winty]

There is a foot switch which is what triggers the solenoid.

 

[koliver]

The ones I had originally were the rod that you pushed down into the solenoid with your foot, covered with a rubber top. The replacements are a microswitch that you close when you push down with your foot, two small wires carry the current to the exciter on the solenoid, closing the contacts and powering the windlass. This style has lasted a lot longer than the originals did. All for less than $100 at Harbour Chandler in Nanaimo, so should be available everywhere there is a good marine store.

 

[rwidman]

Some of the smaller windlasses do not use a contactor (relay). The full current goes through the switches.

 

[koliver]

Some of the smaller windlasses do not use a contactor (relay). The full current goes through the switches.

So easy to change. Just add the micro foot switches and new solenoids.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.

You could be right. All I know is when I push on the up, the chain comes in and when I push on the down, the anchor and chain gets wet. Yep works for me.....

 

[rwidman]

So easy to change. Just add the micro foot switches and new solenoids.

Considering the cost of a contactor, I just upsized to a windlass that included the contactor. The switches are the same.