Sea Strainer Placement

[Scoid]

First I want to thank everyone who helped me with the air leak problem on my SVS-1000. Thank you!

I've decided to bite the bullet and go for a new thru hull and strainer. I'd like to mount the strainer myself and save a few pennies. Does anyone have any good tips or ideas for where to mount the strainer?

Right now my plan is to attach a plywood plate to the starboard stringer that the engine sits on and just aft of the pump as shown. I've included a couple other optional spots in the attached photos. I'll attach the plate to the stringer with a very solid angle bracket and directly to the stringer as well. Then attach the strainer to the plywood plate.

I'm not sure but I think this will be slightly below the waterline. Do I have to bend the hose up and make a loop above the waterline? Anything else I should know (ABYC)?

Thanks.

 

[fgarriso]

Can't you just remove the old one and replace it with the new.

 

[STB]

I'm with fgarriso on this one. If you replace it with like kind, life gets easier.

Rubber taper plug valves aren't super popular anymore, so if you can't get the SVS-1000, the BVS-1000 should be a drop-in replacement, except with a ball valve vs a taper valve.

(Personally, I love bronze taper plug valves, but am not a fan of the rubber plug valves...I'd rather have a ball valve than a rubber plug).

 

[mvweebles]

Groco does make a direct replacement - Groco BVS-1000 is the model. A bit over $600. https://www.hodgesmarine.com/grobvs-1000-groco-1-ball-valveseacock-amp-raw-water-stra.html but it's out of stock, which might mean Groco is out of stock - could be a while.

If you decide on a more common separate sea-strainer and seacock, picture #3 looks like the best option given the limited field of view (might change my mind if I could see a wider angle pic). Two possible suggestions: First, getting the hose to bend 90-degrees from the seacock to the strainer might be too much, so you may want a 45-degree fitting before the hose adapter (Groco PTHD-1000 https://www.hodgesmarine.com/gropthd-1000-groco-1-npt-bronze-45-degree-pipe-to-1-hose.html).

Second suggestion is rather than use plywood, use GPO3 which is more or less fiberlgass sheeting. Available from McMaster Carr, a 3-foot strip of 1/2" thick is around $25 (plus shipping - which will be pretty steep). https://www.mcmaster.com/3345K14/ It's pretty remarkable stuff. I am pretty sure 1/2" will be good, but you may want to go with 1" thick (https://www.mcmaster.com/3345K16/) just to be sure - 3/4" would be perfect, but they don't carry it. While you're at it, order stainless steel fasteners from McMaster to through-bolt it to the stringer; and the strainer mounts to the GPO3 mounting plate. Of course, use a generous amount of bedding on both sides to prevent any water from getting into the stringer. Sailors seem to be using Butyl Tape on their chain plates these days, though 3M 4200 or Sika 291 might be good too. Whatever you do, bedding the through-bolts is perhaps the most important part of the job. I know it's unlikely your stringers will be submerged, but it does happen. Rotten stringers is a very expensive repair.

Good luck -

Peter

 

[Pete Meisinger]

I think any of your locations will work, just be certain you have access to the shut off valve and it can fully rotate.

I would agree that you should "thu-bolt" your mounting plate. I also agree that you should re use the existing hole if possible. From your pictures it looks like your present strainer is more or less "free standing." That is a bad thing. A 200 pound person slipping on a slippery bilge could easily break it lose. Secure it..

pete

 

[Scoid]

Groco does make a direct replacement - Groco BVS-1000 is the model. A bit over $600. https://www.hodgesmarine.com/grobvs-1000-groco-1-ball-valveseacock-amp-raw-water-stra.html but it's out of stock, which might mean Groco is out of stock - could be a while.

If you decide on a more common separate sea-strainer and seacock, picture #3 looks like the best option given the limited field of view (might change my mind if I could see a wider angle pic). Two possible suggestions: First, getting the hose to bend 90-degrees from the seacock to the strainer might be too much, so you may want a 45-degree fitting before the hose adapter (Groco PTHD-1000 https://www.hodgesmarine.com/gropthd-1000-groco-1-npt-bronze-45-degree-pipe-to-1-hose.html).

Second suggestion is rather than use plywood, use GPO3 which is more or less fiberlgass sheeting. Available from McMaster Carr, a 3-foot strip of 1/2" thick is around $25 (plus shipping - which will be pretty steep). https://www.mcmaster.com/3345K14/ It's pretty remarkable stuff. I am pretty sure 1/2" will be good, but you may want to go with 1" thick (https://www.mcmaster.com/3345K16/) just to be sure - 3/4" would be perfect, but they don't carry it. While you're at it, order stainless steel fasteners from McMaster to through-bolt it to the stringer; and the strainer mounts to the GPO3 mounting plate. Of course, use a generous amount of bedding on both sides to prevent any water from getting into the stringer. Sailors seem to be using Butyl Tape on their chain plates these days, though 3M 4200 or Sika 291 might be good too. Whatever you do, bedding the through-bolts is perhaps the most important part of the job. I know it's unlikely your stringers will be submerged, but it does happen. Rotten stringers is a very expensive repair.

Good luck -

Peter

Good thinking but the Valve on the SVS is what secures the thru hull. The base is fiberglassed over so it’s not a simple replacement. The BVS is the same way. Also, I thought that design is no longer ABYC approved (?). Going to go with new thru hull, to an adapter, to a ball valve, to a hose configuration to make life easier for the next owner.

Just need to know where to mount the ARG.

 

[mvweebles]

Good thinking but the Valve on the SVS is what secures the thru hull. The base is fiberglassed over so it’s not a simple replacement. The BVS is the same way. Also, I thought that design is no longer ABYC approved (?). Going to go with new thru hull, to an adapter, to a ball valve, to a hose configuration to make life easier for the next owner.

Just need to know where to mount the ARG.

The tough part is bending the hose. Don't be bashful about relocating the through-hull. I know you would have to fill the old hole, but it's not that bad to do compared to making heroic measures to bend hose and sea strainer.

Not surprised the replacement combo strainer/through hull isn't ABYC. Test is 500 lbs for 30-seconds - that tall tower doesn't look like it's up to the task. But depending on other factors, might be an acceptable compromise. Maybe fabricate a stainless protective crib around it bolted to stringer. Tough to tell from afar.

Good luck. The GPO3 from McMaster really is good stuff for structure. Almost as easy as plywood to work with

Peter

 

[EVERFOR]

Why not keep it simple and just replace you old neoprene sea valve / strainer combo with a Groco BVS? Smaller foot print and also one less hose and set of clamps to worry about. I replaced all four on my 36 because the neoprene had taken a set and was very hard to open and close. Peace of mind.

 

[Caballero II]

First I want to thank everyone who helped me with the air leak problem on my SVS-1000. Thank you!

I've decided to bite the bullet and go for a new thru hull and strainer. I'd like to mount the strainer myself and save a few pennies. Does anyone have any good tips or ideas for where to mount the strainer?

Right now my plan is to attach a plywood plate to the starboard stringer that the engine sits on and just aft of the pump as shown. I've included a couple other optional spots in the attached photos. I'll attach the plate to the stringer with a very solid angle bracket and directly to the stringer as well. Then attach the strainer to the plywood plate.

I'm not sure but I think this will be slightly below the waterline. Do I have to bend the hose up and make a loop above the waterline? Anything else I should know (ABYC)?

Thanks.

One thing I learned on my GB 36 is to be very "hands-on" in requesting things like this. When Ventura replaced my two sea strainers to get better flow to the existing genset and main engine, they took out two out of a finite quantity of places I could stand in, greatly reducing my ability to get around my engine room. And I have just a single main engine.

The yard workers don't care, since they're young, agile and not the most highly rated thinkers. I now can't get around about half my single engine, but the strainers work well. Don't be shy, and insist they run it by you first to see if it will work for you. Space for your feet is a very valuable commodity. Don't give it away cheaply!