Shaft removal

[Randomwake]

Hello all!

I have a 34 CHB single engine. I’m looking into getting the drive shaft and prop out to get checked and balanced.

Any info on procedures, do I have to pull the rudder?

Also I see the prop has bottom paint, is that normal? Can’t help the balance….. trying to diagnose slight shaft wobble.

Thanks!

 

[CharlieO.]

Do you have a hole in your rudder? My shaft should pull without dropping the rudder because there is hole where the shaft should pass through.

 

[Comodave]

My rudders are offset enough so that the shaft will slide past them.

 

[Bmarler]

Have you spent any time measuring the runout with an indicator? You can learn a lot by carefully measuring in several locations on the shaft and also the output flange. Be sure to mark the highs and lows so you can compare as you move along the shaft.

 

[Bmarler]

My rudders are offset enough so that the shaft will slide past them.

It would be pretty unusual to have a offset rudder with a single prop vessel.
Most will have a shaft removal hole.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, I said rudders on my boat. Didn’t say it was that way on his boat.

 

[PhilPB]

I had a shaft wobble and vibration that was caused by a cutlass bearing needing replacement. The company I hired to do the work ended up cutting the driveshaft as it wouldn't liberate itself from the coupler on the transmission. Ended up costing a boatload more than I expected but I now have a new driveshaft and coupling among other things.

If all went the textbook way it should have gone, the shaft would have passed through the hole in the rudder and a new cutlass bearing replaced, easy peasy.

In the end I had the rudder dropped and rebuilt, tube for driveshaft replaced, new driveshaft, shoe removed & blasted and for good measure had the prop sent out for balancing, which it didn’t need. Oh, and a new cutlass bearing!

All from a little vibration!

 

[Nick F]

I had a 1976 CHB34. It had a hole in the rudder to allow the shaft to be pulled without removing the rudder.

 

[boomerang]

I just completed this task. Thankfully, the PO had removed the shaft coupling in the past and replaced it with a split-type coupling so it came off relatively easily but surprisingly, the shaft was a real pain to remove from the shaft tube. It just never willingly cooperated and had to be beat and spun and cussed for the entire length of removal. The new cutlass bearing wasn't the easiest thing to replace either, even after having it in the freezer to try to reduce the diameter. The new shaft installment went fairly smooth, with liberal amounts of of WD40 & soapy water applied to both cutlass bearings and the shaft itself.
I did the entire R & R by myself. An assistant, especially for the bearing replacement , would have made the job much easier.

 

[PhilPB]

I had a shaft wobble and vibration that was caused by a cutlass bearing needing replacement. The company I hired to do the work ended up cutting the driveshaft as it wouldn't liberate itself from the coupler on the transmission. Ended up costing a boatload more than I expected but I now have a new driveshaft and coupling among other things.

If all went the textbook way it should have gone, the shaft would have passed through the hole in the rudder and a new cutlass bearing replaced, easy peasy.

In the end I had the rudder dropped and rebuilt, tube for driveshaft replaced, new driveshaft, shoe removed & blasted and for good measure had the prop sent out for balancing, which it didn’t need. Oh, and a new cutlass bearing!

All from a little vibration!

Forgot the midshaft bearing was replaced too. The new shaft required polishing in order to get it to pass through.

 

[jgwinks]

I had a shaft replaced a couple years ago, the tech used cooking pan spray for lube for pulling the old one out and putting the new one in. He said petro oil would swell the rubber cutless bearings and make the job a lot harder.

 

[High Wire]

If you have the rudder hole you may have to disconnect the steering ram to get the rudder to 90 degrees to open up the hole fully.

 

[WillieC2]

Lots of great advice here, very applicable to my Nordic Tug 26. Mine came before they figured out how to cut a hole in the rudder, which is what I will do when the day comes. The boat is in the yard sitting on her trailer and I can't see how to get the rudder out of the way in order to remove the shaft.

The stainless steel plate that supports the bottom of the rudder shaft is bolted to the bottom of the keel, which is resting firmly on the near full length keel support provided on the trailer. Removal of that plate and all the associated mess of doing so seems to be the only way to remove the rudder, and thus, the shaft, in order to do anything shaft related. (Boy, do I miss my Albin 25...)

So Hole it will be. The shaft is 1-1/2" so careful measuring and a 2" hole ought to do it. And removing everything attached to the shaft in the lazarette so it can be swung 90 degrees to the world.

Any good tips for drilling a two inch hole in a 316SS plate about 3/8" thick? In place, mind you.

Thanks!

 

[Nick F]

If you have the rudder hole you may have to disconnect the steering ram to get the rudder to 90 degrees to open up the hole fully.

As you can see in Boomerang's photo, the rudder does not need to rotate to 90 degrees. (obviously depends on the size of the hole in the rudder)

 

[Bmarler]

Lots of great advice here, very applicable to my Nordic Tug 26. Mine came before they figured out how to cut a hole in the rudder, which is what I will do when the day comes. The boat is in the yard sitting on her trailer and I can't see how to get the rudder out of the way in order to remove the shaft.

The stainless steel plate that supports the bottom of the rudder shaft is bolted to the bottom of the keel, which is resting firmly on the near full length keel support provided on the trailer. Removal of that plate and all the associated mess of doing so seems to be the only way to remove the rudder, and thus, the shaft, in order to do anything shaft related. (Boy, do I miss my Albin 25...)

So Hole it will be. The shaft is 1-1/2" so careful measuring and a 2" hole ought to do it. And removing everything attached to the shaft in the lazarette so it can be swung 90 degrees to the world.

Any good tips for drilling a two inch hole in a 316SS plate about 3/8" thick? In place, mind you.

Thanks!

I’d get hold of a mag base drill. Use a piece of mild steel plate, clamped to the rudder, mag the drill onto that. Get a 2 inch fine tooth hole saw and some cutting oil. Do your best to keep the heat down as you go so you don’t work harden the stainless.
It’s best to tie a safety lanyard to the drill to support it in case of accidental breakaway from the steel plate.

 

[PM]

If your rudder does not have a hole in it get a torch or hole saw and make one. Some people mount a zinc over the hole but it is not necessary.

pete

 

[Max Simmons]

Make sure that they block the boat to allow for the angle of the shaft during removal. I had to dig a small hole to pull it out completely as it was on the weekend with no yard guys around.

 

[boomerang]

Lots of great advice here, very applicable to my Nordic Tug 26. Mine came before they figured out how to cut a hole in the rudder, which is what I will do when the day comes. The boat is in the yard sitting on her trailer and I can't see how to get the rudder out of the way in order to remove the shaft.

The stainless steel plate that supports the bottom of the rudder shaft is bolted to the bottom of the keel, which is resting firmly on the near full length keel support provided on the trailer. Removal of that plate and all the associated mess of doing so seems to be the only way to remove the rudder, and thus, the shaft, in order to do anything shaft related. (Boy, do I miss my Albin 25...)

So Hole it will be. The shaft is 1-1/2" so careful measuring and a 2" hole ought to do it. And removing everything attached to the shaft in the lazarette so it can be swung 90 degrees to the world.
Any good tips for drilling a two inch hole in a 316SS plate about 3/8" thick? In place, mind you.

Thanks!

I assume your rudder is constructed with the rudder shaft stock being in 2 pieces ,a top portion and a bottom portion with only the stainless plate in the middle as is mine in the photos. Some rudders are built with a continuous piece of shafting material, top to bottom, which would void the idea of cutting a hole in it.
Attached are 2 better pictures of after the new shaft (and bearing) were installed. I'd guess the hole is every bit of 2" ,if not larger,which allowed me to remove the shaft without having to disconnect the linkage.
Totally unrelated to your question, but still interesting, in the 2nd picture, I hooked up the engine to the fresh water flush while I was still hauled because I wanted to be sure the cutlasses were being adequately lubricated with some diverted cooling water after it leaves the exhaust riser. It's injected into the packing gland inside of the boat, where it lubes the forward cutlass ,goes through the shaft tube and exits the aft cutlass bearing. If you look closely, there was a good flow of water coming through the cutlass bearing with excess coming out of the water intake ports in the bearing housing. One less thing I need to wonder about when we're underway!