Shower valve upgrade

[GarryP]

Mango Mama has the typical shower valves. We would like to upgrade but I have no idea how to find a nice shower valve that will work with the existing plumbing. I'm not even sure how to remove the existing valves.

Any ideas?

 

[JohnP]

First off you must be able to access the back of this shower wall.

You could swap out for a new* simular shower valve.* Looks like an RV type.

Or you could use any shower valve you like, as long as the trim covers the original cutout.* You can also install a shower outlet to attach the head or hose, separate from the valve.

Basically all plumbing fixtures can be adapted to work.* In my boat I had a delta single lever shower valve.** A new trim ring and handle and a couple of parts and it is now*looks and works like*new. One reason standard fixtures are a plus.

The quickest fix is to get a pair of new handles and shine up the base when you remove the handles.

Good Luck with your project!* JohnP

-- Edited by JohnP on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 03:09:42 PM

 

[Moonstruck]

Garry, if you can't get behind the shower wall for access, there is a problem.* You can cut around and go in from the control side of the valve as long as the new cover plate covers the hole.* This is really tricky to do as the valve assembly can be larger* than the hole.* To change it, you may have to cut an access at the rear.*

Since most boat water heaters are small and set at a high temperature, a temperature balanced valve is to be disired.* It can keep you from getting scalded.

Be sure to seal tightly around the cover plate.* Water getting behind it can cause allot of damage.

 

[Moonstruck]

Garry, is there a locker behind the shower wall with the valve?* I if there is there could be a false back for the locker that can be removed by taking out a few screws.

 

[GarryP]

The shower wall with the valve is against the hull so no easy access. I don't know how much space is back there but it can't be much. I get the idea now how to go about it. I'll have to crawl in there and see how difficult it will be.

Thanks

 

[Capn Craig]

Is that a soap diish or? to the left of the valve? *It looks like there may be screws in the corners. *If so that could be your access. *If not, you might cut a hole next to the valve, and cover it with a deck plate or something else.

 

[FF]

IF you create hot water with a coolant line from the engine or noisemaker to the HW tank the chance is after a short cruise the tank will be 180F ,enough to do real harm.

The solution is an anti-scald valve , expensive , but way cheaper than a helicopter ride and months of plastic surgery.

 

[Avista]

As Capn Craig pointed out just remove the soap dish. On our old boat we bought a recessed soap dish similar to yours and cut an access hole for the valve replacement and then covered it with the soap dish; worked like a charm.

 

[GarryP]

Eventually, I guess I would have thought of going in through the soap dish opening but I was so focused on the valves it hadn't crossed my mind. Thanks for pointing it out! I'll check it out further this weekend.

 

[koliver]

Gary:
I solved the same problem with new stuff from www.hudsonreed.com. didn't need to get behind the wall.