Spade connectors for AC?

[oak_box]

I have replaced an AC init in my boat with a MarinAire 16,000 system. In general - very happy with it, and thrilled with the assistance I have received when calling them for support.

Last week, the fan motor died. They sent me a new one. I installed it, but now only the low fan speed works. At this point, the 7 pin connector on the wiring harness isn't making connection on the med. and high fan speed connections. I might be able to bend/crimp pins to get them to connect, but would be suspicious of that long term, especially if I ever need to unplug/plug the harness in the future.

I'd like to remove that connector and replace it with something.

Would it be BAD to remove the connector, and replace it with insulated male / female spade connectors on each wire? It would be a mess of 7 wires, but the bundle could be zip tied. The connection will ultimately be protected in a cabinet, so shouldn't be bothered, and it would allow me to disconnect and remove the fan for servicing if needed.

I'm pretty sure I will hear that spades are ok for going onto solid terminals permanently mounted to a board or motor, but probably not intended for free floating AC connections (the fan is 110V, about 1A load on high speed).

I could replace the connector with a terminal strip - but a proper 8 connection terminal strip is huge, and would need to be at least mounted somethere, and covered, and preferably protected in a box, and would be a pain if I ever need to disconnect the fan.

Any other suggestions of how to replace the 8 pin connector with something reliable? (I'm not happy with the custom type, never saw it before, and don't have a picture, sorry - but not one I would go back to, so not sure it's relevant.) I'm sure there are molex connectors out there - but that would require special crimers, pins, etc, and seems more painful than the terminal block...

 

[psneeld]

What kind of boat?


Subject to high impact forces or sever vibrations?


If not, a decent spade connector, properly tight and supported should not be an issue.

 

[oak_box]

The boat is a 40' Chris Craft cabin cruiser, and is kept on the lake. Typical usage right now is sitting in the dock, due to the engines still being a major work in progress... Expected usage would be fairly slow most of the time (8-10mph), with occasional runs at full speed.

There will be some rolling and vibration, but nothing crazy. There should be no strain on the connections, and I could be sure to zip tie it in such a way that wires wouldn't pull out.

 

[psneeld]

The boat is a 40' Chris Craft cabin cruiser, and is kept on the lake. Typical usage right now is sitting in the dock, due to the engines still being a major work in progress... Expected usage would be fairly slow most of the time (8-10mph), with occasional runs at full speed.

There will be some rolling and vibration, but nothing crazy. There should be no strain on the connections, and I could be sure to zip tie it in such a way that wires wouldn't pull out.

Beats a possible major job on a non critical system....unless hospitalization is required after the next time you need to get to the connections again.

 

[oak_box]

Yes, thankfully, this is one of my smaller headaches - though now that SUMMER is here (we had temps in the high 90's yesterday) - AC becomes VERY IMPORTANT.

My primary concern was whether spade connectors were ok for AC circuits. Though the wire harness connects to the main electrical board (inside an aluminum box) using spade connectors going to terminals soldered on the board.

So I guess spade connectors, in and of themselves, are ok for a 1A 110V circuit. And if I cable tie and strain relief the connection so that they can't pull out, and use the insulated connectors (head shrunk to the wire), that should be pretty solid.

Just don't want to burn the boat down after all this work - plus my dock neighbors would probably be somewhat annoyed...

 

[healhustler]

Of course, you know all connectors are not made equal. Given the connectors were of high quality and the finished connections had some slack to absorb normal average motion, I would do it. A few strategically placed wire ties and loom covers to keep the hot, neutral and grd separated should keep anything from issue.

 

[KnotYet]

There are several ways to repair your connection.
My first choice would be to repair the connector in question.
The pins and sockets can usually be removed individually and repaired or replaced.
If that isn't working then I'd try to get a replacement connector that fits the OEM.
If you can't find the exact replacement then a compact terminal strip would be next.
They come in all sizes and the smallest one you can find would probably be fine.

Using spades would work but doesn't offer much of a benefit since you would be
cutting the original connectors off. At that point you could just butt splice the wires.

 

[Comodave]

I would put a terminal block in place of the connector. Then put ring connectors on the wires. Screw them onto the terminal block and put a cover over the terminal block and you are done.

 

[janice142]

Of course, you know all connectors are not made equal. Given the connectors were of high quality and the finished connections had some slack to absorb normal average motion, I would do it. A few strategically placed wire ties and loom covers to keep the hot, neutral and grd separated should keep anything from issue.

On board a nearby Hatteras i utilized the strap from an old life preserver in lieu of those more common plastic ones. A stainless screw with a washer held the wires in place. I put this up as a consideration if you've got larger bundles of wires to deal with. For heavier wires of course I would use a longer screw.

I would put a terminal block in place of the connector. Then put ring connectors on the wires. Screw them onto the terminal block and put a cover over the terminal block and you are done.

This is a great idea. I'm messing with all the wiring in my pilothouse at present. This is one of those "might as well" and "while I'm at it" little projects that is rapidly becoming a nightmare. And yes, i knew better. ONE thing (my anchor light) didn't work when I started. Now, nothing does!!!!

But it will, and will be better than ever. I hope....

 

[tiltrider1]

Comodave has the ABYC approved method. However, AC is a non critical function and using insulated spade connectors is not unreasonable.