Teak question

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tedted

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2016
Messages
54
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Castoff
Vessel Make
77 Heritage West Indian 36
Hello all, I'm getting ready to apply the finish on our exterior teak. I was wondering if anyone has used one part polyurethane as a finish? I suspect most varnishes are relatively the same but poly is a completely different chemistry (I think). Does poly hold up better in anyone's experience?
 
I use one part polyurethane and it hold up better than regular marine varnish. Also blends and adhere to varnish and epoxy.
 
I will bet that 99% of the varnishes on the market including marine varnishes are polyurethane based. Originally varnishes were natural pine sap resins, oil and a petroleum solvent. All of that has been replaced with polyurethane today.


I also don't think that there is any difference between marine varnishes and the stuff you put on floors or furniture that you buy at Home Depot for half or less than marine varnishes.


A good varnish job requires meticulous preparation, five plus coats with light sanding in between and yearly top sanding and recoating and repairing any film breaks. If you do this religiously you can get 5-10 years before you have to strip to bare wood.


Another type of coating is Cetol and its clones. It is entirely different from varnish and is partially opaque or brown. It partially dissolves the undercoats each time you apply so it has a better ability to repair breaks because it does not leave an edge like hard varnish will. But it is softer and scratches and gouges more easily. The brown color helps it withstand UV. You can usually just keep repairing Cetol for years and sand and top coat when needed.


David
 
I've used the expensive marine varnishes from West Marine and the Helmsman brand poly at Home Depot for a fraction of the price. The less expensive polyurethane holds up nearly as well...and I live in the Bahamas 12 months a year, talk about a test ground!
 
You may know this already, but if you apply 3 coats of west system 105/207 first then 2-3 coats of your favorite spar varnish and you'll end up with a finish so deep that it looks like you have 14 coats
 
You may know this already, but if you apply 3 coats of west system 105/207 first then 2-3 coats of your favorite spar varnish and you'll end up with a finish so deep that it looks like you have 14 coats

Hmm... never heard of using epoxy. Is pot life an issue? I'll be working out in the sun.
I read an article on it and it does have some advantages.
 
One pary polyurethane varnishes like Minwax Helmsman don't hold up nearly as well as Epiphanes gloss varnish. Here in Maine Epiphanes is the gold standard. It is used on all the high end yachts.
 
I have the best results with Minwax Helmsman spar urethane here in South West Florida. I do spend a hour every six weeks with Maintenance. Quick sand and top coat were needed, Always needs work. I'm often asked when I'll be done varnishing, the correct answer is "Never Done" but I try to keep my Brightwork looking like Grandmas dinning room table. Looking good with some character (blemishes) I do not like the look of Cetaol I'd rather paint it than look at the cloudy brown.
 
Hmm... never heard of using epoxy. Is pot life an issue? I'll be working out in the sun.
I read an article on it and it does have some advantages.

PL of a 3.5 oz cup is around 20-25 mins @ 70-75 degrees. One other thing, when you do the final sand on the epoxy if you see any shiny spots that means they're low spot so it may take another thin coat, if you can live with the low spots then lightly hand sand those spot.

OK two other things, I went 3 coats of epoxy and I think I could have got away with 2, so that a judgement call; Also on the varnish I have used both Epifanes and Pittit. With Epif. I used 2 coats wood finish gloss because it builds fast and you don't need to sand between if you 2nd coat within 72 hrs and then the final coat was with Epif clear varnish gloss.

Pettit pretty much the same deal expect you lightly sand your coats, first 2 with Flagship because of the fast build and super UV protection and the top coat with Captain's because of the super gloss.

Hell, I forgot this one too, you can also stain your wood prior to the epoxy
 
I do not like the look of Cetaol I'd rather paint it than look at the cloudy brown.

I not a real fan either, but the problem most people have with cetol is they do the maintenance coats with the color instead of using the gloss only. I have boats ( or had ) that I did with cetol years ago and made a point to the owner to use just the clear for maintenance.

Also, regardless of what your told, if like cetols natural teak color your can do the 3 base coats with that and finish it off with 2-3 topcoats of your favorite clear gloss varnish, you get a way better finish
 
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