teak sealant goop question

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seattleboatguy

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2013
Messages
327
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Slow Bells
Vessel Make
Marine Trader 38
I think I'm finally ready to try to spruce up this poor hatch over my aft cabin. I thought that before I heat gun the old varnish/paint/whatever, I would replace all the black goop between the teak strips. Can I just use something like Life Calk from West Marine, or do I have to use black goop that is specifically made for teak, such as the products from Teak Decking Systems?


hatch.jpg
 
Greetings,
Mr. S. "...before I heat gun the old varnish/paint/whatever, I would replace all the black goop..." Might be your choice of wording but the "goop" should be replaced as a last step. Better minds than mine will have what they have had success with. I haven't done any teak seaming for years and I'm pretty sure the technology has improved.
 
However you decide to strip the varnish, you should replace the caulk with a teak specific product. I like Teak Deck Systems 440, I think that is the number. You need to get all the old caulking out, sand the grooves and then wipe with acetone just prior to caulking. I taped the seams with blue painters tape to help control the mess. After caulking strike off the excess and pull the tape. Then do a final sanding to get the caulking flat. Then finish with your varnish or finish of choice. Have fun!
 
Greetings,
Mr. S. "...before I heat gun the old varnish/paint/whatever, I would replace all the black goop..." Might be your choice of wording but the "goop" should be replaced as a last step. Better minds than mine will have what they have had success with. I haven't done any teak seaming for years and I'm pretty sure the technology has improved.
If I need to sand the black goop smooth after application, I would think that might mess up new varnish. But, I'm new at this. What do the rest of you guys think about the proper order for stripping caulking varnishing?
 
Go to Teak Decking Systems web site, they have directions there. We did the finish last because you do have to sand the caulk to get it flush with the decking.
 
Yes, TDS 440 is the stuff to use.
You can make a tool to scrape out the old caulk. Take a flat tip screwdriver with the blade as wide as the grooves, maybe just a scosh narrower. Heat it up with a propane torch and bend it a little past 90 degrees. See picture.
Then sand the grooves afterward.
I would do the varnish work after the caulk has been sanded.
 

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And oh yes a sea of blue tape required. Just make sure you think about pulling it off and in what order.
Have fun!
 

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Ah, yes the blue tape...
 

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i did this over the summer .i had a problem . i epoxied and varnished the wood then put in the new sealant and sanded.that ruined the varnish . then i varnished again careful to miss the seams. varnish will Not stick to the sealant. if i ever do it again i'm going to fill the seams with black epoxy then clear epoxy and varnish.
 
i don't think it turned out good but it is a lot better than before
 

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I would try this next time although it looks like it could be done better than this video.
 
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