Wallpaper vs teak veneer

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KEVMAR

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Messages
289
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Delphina
Vessel Make
President 43
I am in the process for removing very water damaged bulkhead from around a window which is being replaced in the aft cabin ... I cant find a close match for the teak veneer that is on the bulkheads now. Any suggestions on how to tackle this ? or has anyone put wallpaper up? and which company did you order it from or any suggestions on where I would find marine grade wallpaper mold resistance. I have a 1983 36 albin trawler....thak you
 
Rather than replace teak veneer which I know is certain to suffer future water damage I covered much of my forward v berth in foam backed vinyl with the original teak trim. My aft cabin I’m in the midst replacing windows and knowing future leaks are inevitable, I am considering a hull liner from sailrite or an upholstery fabric to replace the veneer.
 
My wife put a wallpaper border below our aft cabin windows. I don't think she bought anything special. It's been up 9 years and still looks fine.
 
I recently replaced the old , brittle plastic ports in the aft cabin with new ss ports. The stained teak veneer was looking ratty, so I covered it with white Formica. Really brightened up the stateroom, as it is all wood.

Bill
 
Spend a few more minutes on a Google search. There's plenty of choice of Teak veneer and Teak veneer plywood. Your first problem will be in identifying the correct 'cut'. Ours is 'quartered': lots of parallel stripes. Other choices include 'flat': where you see the wood grain in curves.

Our boat has entire rooms finished in matching veneer, that is, all the plywood's veneer came from the same tree and the pattern continues around the room. You will have to make do with matching the cut.

The problem then becomes mere cost. Then work. I would not hesitate in restoring the original appearance of the boat, particularly if the rest of the woodwork remains lovely.

An aside: architectural-grade work in older modernist buildings used to include the architect choosing which veneers would be used for the custom plywood and furniture. When the veneer seller and the architect agreed on one or two, the unchosen sample veneers were often sent back to the seller and were not reunited with the rest of their flitch. I bought a stack of 'dead veneer samples' for use in reveneering my Flying Dutchman sailboat.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tea...JrpbYAhVhhOAKHWHXALoQsAQIlwI&biw=1085&bih=553
 
Any suggestions on how to tackle this ? or has anyone put wallpaper up? and which company did you order it from.......
Just about all walk paper you buy today is vinyl.....I don't believe there is "marine grade" wallpaper anywhere. We recently wall papered our 2 heads with a brown vinyl paper. Looks great and is holding up (sticking) well!
 

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Your old teak veneer once looked just like what you can find in the stores now. If you do a nice job, any differences between what you put up new will fade within a year or two and your repair will completely disappear.
I did an aft cabin repair 20 years ago and two main saloon repairs a few years later. all look like they are original teak now.
I also built a cabinet form new teak in the front part of the saloon, where the room gets most sun. It too quickly faded to look just the same as its surroundings within a very short time.
 
"very water damaged bulkhead from around a window which is being replaced in the aft cabin .."

How is the new window installed differently from the old one?

If it too will leak in a few years wallpaper is least hassle.
 
At least Larry M has some aesthetics and understanding of durability. Wallpaper on a boat? Really? Sheesh!
 
Rather than replace teak veneer which I know is certain to suffer future water damage I covered much of my forward v berth in foam backed vinyl with the original teak trim.

Hope you have better luck with that than I am. There are a number of small compartments on my boat that are lined with that junk. The vinyl looks good but the foam is dry rotting leaving a mess on the walls and ceiling with the vinyl hanging. It will be tough to redo in my boat as it's in smaller cabinets.

Ted
 
I worked on a boat that was built with lots of teak veneers that were water stained and pealing. We stopped all the leaks then scraped everything that could come off and skim coated those areas. We overlaid with Formica and used teak L moldings for the outside corners and 1/4 round for the insides. As Tuttouomo said, it brightened things up and really changed the sense of space. We did take the port lights out so the frames were over the Formica but we would have had to do that if we replaced the veneer. It was a quick project. We prefinished the teak moldings so after the installation we only added a couple of coats of varnish for the nail holes. The fit on the Formica didn't have to be perfect since the moldings covered the edges.
 
I really like a good paint job on a boat interior too. Easy to clean, easy to repair.
 
At least Larry M has some aesthetics and understanding of durability. Wallpaper on a boat? Really? Sheesh!
Maybe not perfect, but it sure beats the monkey and mouse fur some mfrs used.
 
Hope you have better luck with that than I am. There are a number of small compartments on my boat that are lined with that junk. The vinyl looks good but the foam is dry rotting leaving a mess on the walls and ceiling with the vinyl hanging. It will be tough to redo in my boat as it's in smaller cabinets.



Ted



It held up for 15 years in my Formula. On my trawler it Really brightened an otherwise dark cabin and provided some padding above and next to the v berth. And it hides imperfections. Then there was the $70 cost-courtesy of an eBay find.
 
At least Larry M has some aesthetics and understanding of durability. Wallpaper on a boat? Really? Sheesh!

And there's wallcovering police for boats?
 
It held up for 15 years in my Formula. On my trawler it Really brightened an otherwise dark cabin and provided some padding above and next to the v berth. And it hides imperfections. Then there was the $70 cost-courtesy of an eBay find.

My boat is 15 years old, and it was falling apart at 12 years old.

Ted
 
I'm considering using 1/16" high-impact polystyrene sheet, perhaps rebuilding the head cabinet with a thicker sheet. I've never removed the internal frame from ports; would removing , attaching the sheet with a cutout around the port, then reattaching break the external seal for the port?

Thanks-

aenlic
 
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Here is a renovation of damaged teak surrounding port lights using Home Depot smooth faced high impact plastic sheets. If I recall they are about $20 for a 4’ x 8’ sheet. I used the thicker marled sheet for bathrooms. Very happy with result and very easy maintenance.
 
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I don't think teak boards have been mentioned.

It's easy to do and it can be done in the winter if you have a place to cut and sand the boards or strips.

On our boat the boards are screwed to the ply of the house. Below the windows and above the setee cushions we have the teak boards. And in the winter they can be easily oiled before installation.

We have wallpaper around the windows. Wish it was just plywood. I'm in the wall paper doesn't belong in a boat camp but it's too much trouble to change. Rather just use the boat and we're having trouble doing that now.

One could use Douglas Fir or cedar and paint it white. Teak interiors are quite dark and white is great inside.

By the way that's Chris making a pine needle basket. She learned that from a friend in Alaska.
 

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Very neatly done, McG! I don't understand what Cheoy Lee was doing with that inner Teak frame. I probably would have compromised differently: new countertop, new port surround, but put it back.

NW, the board facings is good old nautical stuff. Looks good, easier to work through if there's a problem to solve behind. Seen on all sorts of boats, from yachts, to fishing schooners, to Herreshoff. Often spaced for ventilation behind on wood boats. Easy to do, too; the boards are often shiplapped, I presume so that the gaps are concealed and access behind can be had without removing the whole array from one edge.
 
This is the other side. Strangely, I didn’t take a good picture of the finish on that side. It is now my library bookshelf.

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