Warping

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Moonstruck

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No, I am not talking about wood here.* Why is it you seldom see anyone using lines to warp a boat into a* difficult slip?* It is cheaper than a bow thruster.* If there are pilings, lay the boat along side of one, take a long line off the stern quarter cleat or bow cleat, loop the line around the piling, and feed out the free end with enough friction applied to hold the boat in the direction to move into the slip.* It doesn't work quite as well with a floating dock, but it can work in some cases.* On The fixed docks from the Chesapeake to*North Carolina it works quite well.* 30-40 years ago along the ICW it was almost standard procedure.* Today with bow/stern thrusters and joy sticks, everyone wants to just back or pull in.* When something doesn't work, many panic not knowing what to do.

Am I missing something here?* Too cold to do anything else, so just wondering.
 
Don,
Not sure what your'e driving at. Sounds like your'e using a piling to swing a boat into a bulkhead. We have pilings for cruise ships and canneries but I've never tied to either. I intend to rig and practice swinging the stern off a float w a bow spring line but am concerned about being able to rig effective fenders to protect the bow. One could land and tie to a float w just enough length to accommodate one's boat by backing up to the float and dropping off a crew member w a bow spring line to adjust to a cleat or bull rail as the helmsman slowly applies bits of fwd thrust against the spring until the boat is centered w the other two boats and made fast to the float. Ever done that??? Wife and I have those full time communicators (that claim to save marriages) so I'm about ready to try some of this stuff.
 
nomadwilly wrote:

Don,
Not sure what your'e driving at. Sounds like your'e using a piling to swing a boat into a bulkhead.
Eric, something like that.* It must be mainly an East coast thing as there seems to be more fixed docks here.* Some of our floating docks have a pilng between the twin slips as you enter.* Some have a piling at the end of the float.* Without the piling it is a little difficult to lasso a cleat or tie onto a bull rail.* I would not try to warp around a sharp or rough corner at the end of a float.* Very few have a roller on the corners for this, but some do.* From what I have seen of your area the floats are seldom in pristine condition.

I can tell you that with pilings and fixed docks, it works extremely well with a single screw trawler.* You can really control which way the stern is going to move when backing in.* With a deck crew that is trained in the use, there would seldom be need for a thruster.

Maybe some of the old salts can chime in with their knowledge.

*
 
Actually, it is done a lot in the PNW, especially by the fish boats. I have never encountered a situation where it is necessary, or better said, I avoid them and use the thruster!
 
We do a version of this. When landing I get the starboard swimstep up against the float and the Admiral steps off onto the float with a stern line. She wraps the line around a cleat and I shift into forward and let the engine idle in forward gear (with the helm over to starboard)*until the bow is against the float and she then ties off the bow. This works great when the wind is trying to blow us off the float we want to tie to. Indeed we used this method on our last cruise this season.

-- Edited by Budds Outlet on Sunday 12th of December 2010 08:20:46 PM
 
Budds Outlet wrote:

We do a version of this. When landing I get the starboard swimstep up against the float and the Admiral steps off onto the float with a stern line. She wraps the line around a cleat and I shift into forward and let the engine idle in forward gear (with the helm over to starboard)*until the bow is against the float and she then ties off the bow. This works great when the wind is trying to blow us off the float we want to tie to. Indeed we used this method on our last cruise this season.

-- Edited by Budds Outlet on Sunday 12th of December 2010 08:20:46 PM
That is the kind of thing I am talking about.* It is a great use of a line to control the boat.* Also, it sounds like you have well trained crew.* I just don't see many people using lines in docking.*

Does anyone else have a nifty tip about using*lines*to share?

*
 
Don,
So if I am understanding your scenario correctly, you are talking about coming towards a slip at a 90 degree angle (say coming down a fairway) and then pull the boat up to a piling, approximately amidships, with a line tied to a stern cleat, then wrap that line partially around the piling. At that time, place the boat in reverse and allow the line to help swing the stern into the slip?
What about when 95% there is another boat in the next slip over that is protruding beyond the outermost pilings?
 
Woodsong wrote:

Don,
So if I am understanding your scenario correctly, you are talking about coming towards a slip at a 90 degree angle (say coming down a fairway) and then pull the boat up to a piling, approximately amidships, with a line tied to a stern cleat, then wrap that line partially around the piling. At that time, place the boat in reverse and allow the line to help swing the stern into the slip?
What about when 95% there is another boat in the next slip over that is protruding beyond the outermost pilings?

Tony, you have pretty well got the picture.* Let's say that you are in your single screw trawler coming down the fairway with the wind or current*on the bow.* You can lay against the piling at almost any angle.* The point is the line is used in this case to make the boat complete the turn and back into the slip.* It will usually get you back far enough into the slip to get a breast line or spring line ashore.* The lines, with the use of carefully applied power and rudder,*have helped hold the boat where you wanted it.* It comes very handy when working into current also.* Case in point is at the downtown docks in Chattanooga.* There is always a current running.* Even in a restricted space if you can get an after bow spring line ashore, turn the wheel away from the dock and easily power in.* The engine can hold the boat to the dock until all lines are secured.
*
 
Moonstruck wrote:

*
Woodsong wrote:

Don,
So if I am understanding your scenario correctly, you are talking about coming towards a slip at a 90 degree angle (say coming down a fairway) and then pull the boat up to a piling, approximately amidships, with a line tied to a stern cleat, then wrap that line partially around the piling. At that time, place the boat in reverse and allow the line to help swing the stern into the slip?
What about when 95% there is another boat in the next slip over that is protruding beyond the outermost pilings?

Tony, you have pretty well got the picture.* Let's say that you are in your single screw trawler coming down the fairway with the wind or current*on the bow.* You can lay against the piling at almost any angle.* The point is the line is used in this case to make the boat complete the turn and back into the slip.* It will usually get you back far enough into the slip to get a breast line or spring line ashore.* The lines, with the use of carefully applied power and rudder,*have helped hold the boat where you wanted it.* It comes very handy when working into current also.* Case in point is at the downtown docks in Chattanooga.* There is always a current running.* Even in a restricted space if you can get an after bow spring line ashore, turn the wheel away from the dock and easily power in.* The engine can hold the boat to the dock until all lines are secured.
*

*



Frankly, the difficulty I would have in using lines at such an expert level would be, well, trying to show my wife how to do it and getting her comfortable with it. *She's not as into the higher level interest of boat maneuvering that I am...pretty sure she would be happy to just have a glass of wine on the bridge while I dock the boat! *:) *Shhh...don't tell her I said that though!

But for the fun sake of discussion/edification on a cold wintery night such as this, if you are going down a fairway as I mentioned, in my experience, there are many boats there and they are typically are out past the outermost piling. *You could not do your maneuver in that event as you'd hit the pulpits of the neighboring boats somewhere amidships on your boat.

Regarding downtown Chatt waterfront....in the back of my mind, my thought was, specifically for our Monk, pass slightly downstream of where I want to dock, tie a long line to the bow cleat, swing her towards the waterfront or their floating dock, even at a 90 degree angle if need be, then ease the bow towards the dock, pulling her alongside facing upriver, while my wife jumps ashore and ties off the bow (loosely) as the current will want to pull the bow out from the dock. *That action will pull the stern in to the dock to tie off the rest. *That is probably how I'd do it if there was no crowd of boats that I might hit if we drifted back due to no spring line. *If crowded, we'd do the same but just set the amidships spring line as the first line. *Actually, as I ponder it more, since the midships cleat is right @ where we disembark the boat, I'd try to get that line tied off first (which is my normal practice whenever docking this boat). *I like to be prepared so I'd probably be most inclined to have both lines in hand (well, her hands) "just in case." *My only minor concern with downtown Chatt would be whether the current would want to take the bow out too quick for her to get the amidships cleat tied off but if there are any other boats aft of where we are docking, the midships cleat would be the one to do first. *Guess I'll be finding out soon enough! *
smile.gif
 
I don't think that I made myself clear on that one.* I was referring to backing into the slip.* If you are going bow in, you would run an after bow spring to pull the bow around.* You should do this one on the down stream or wind piling.* backing in the up stream or wind piling.

There are many times that you can't approach at 90 degrees as a boat in an adjoining slip may interfere.* Just get to the piling at the best angle you can.* Backing in lay on it near the stern.* Pulling in lay up close to the bow.* It works a whole lot better if your line is on the side the dock is on.

Most of the time with a full keel boat current will trump wind as a controlling factor.* Get you keel crosswise to the current without some means*to counteract*it , and it can cause havock.* Many recreational boat bow thrusters on keel boats*cannot overcome a strong current from the side.
 
Moonstruck wrote:

No, I am not talking about wood here.* Why is it you seldom see anyone using lines to warp a boat into a* difficult slip?* It is cheaper than a bow thruster.* If there are pilings, lay the boat along side of one, take a long line off the stern quarter cleat or bow cleat, loop the line around the piling, and feed out the free end with enough friction applied to hold the boat in the direction to move into the slip.* It doesn't work quite as well with a floating dock, but it can work in some cases.* On The fixed docks from the Chesapeake to*North Carolina it works quite well.* 30-40 years ago along the ICW it was almost standard procedure.* Today with bow/stern thrusters and joy sticks, everyone wants to just back or pull in.* When something doesn't work, many panic not knowing what to do.

Am I missing something here?* Too cold to do anything else, so just wondering.
DonUp here in the soggy NW, we use the term "springing" to describe use of spring lines to aid in a landing or an exit. Springing off is necessary, with winds onto the dock as you try to depart. It can also be used to get the boat to the dock in the opposite situation. I suspect we are talking about the same thing. Yes?? No???
Using lines is becoming a lost art, and we all need to remember all the tools we have, and practice their use. It's been a long time since my wife and I practiced "springing off" as we call it.

*
 
When Don speaks of "warping", it's not the same thing as "springing."
You can use the "capstan' on your boat to "warp" it into a birth. Big boats (Fleming does this) have a capstan in the aft cockpit for this purpose. I have* used the capstan on my windlass for this application when I was trying to dock in a very high wind. I approached the dock, threw a line to the marina attendant, wrapped it around the capstan and "warped" myself to the dock.* This was on my 48 Offshore in the Sea of Cortez .
 
SeaHorse II wrote:

When Don speaks of "warping", it's not the same thing as "springing."
Walt is right.* Technically speaking warping and springing are not the same.* However, Carey makes*a very good point, and this is why I brougt te subject up.* Using lines to*control the boat seems to be becoming a lost art.* It can work miracles on a single screw boat.* Lose and engine on a twin screw*or bow thruster in a crowded marina, and they can save your bacon.

My practice is to have lines ready at all points.* We carry two spring lines on each side coiled on the rail at midships and have lines ready bow and stern.* Usually a spring line is the first ashore.* I have twins and a bow thruster, but you never know when you will have a mechanical malfunction.*

As to Tony's comment about his first mate, patience and*calmness can do wonders.* When Lou was on her first boat trip we were docked up a blind alley right in front of the*dining room at the St. Charles YC.* The wind was on the dock.* We*used an after bow spring*to hold in place and get the*stern out* I told her on the hailer when to release the line.* The lunch crowd was on their feet at the windows.* When she did that they applauded.* Probably had seen that situation before with different resuts.

There is nothing wrong with thrusters, but they can time out and malfunction.* They are really great for moving the bow over to loop a piling.* I have had and do have a thruster, but use lines when called for.

*
 
When it comes to knots my wife is dyslexic - including just a turn of the line that starts on the FAR side of the cleat. Then throw in her fear of jumping from the deck to the dock and Im left pretty much with just single handed maneuvers.

I know my 13' whaler (which is on a stern davit) is too long for our 13'6" beam FHB but I will not part with it. So between that and our sundeck it means that I cannot stern in.
Thankfully our slip is oriented such that we are always running bow onto the current and almost never have any cross winds. Ive rigged a dock line (fixed to the mid cleat on the dock) that runs to the end of the dock that my wife is able to snatch with a boat hook which she can then use to guide the bow while I bring the boat in far enough to jump to the dock. With the bow on current and our 4'3" draft the dock line is never actually needed but makes us feel safer. This works GREAT in all conditions but only at our slip. We have twins which help a lot and while we are out we do OK in that we never hit anything and have only had to make multiple attempts in areas with strong side currents, but it's always more tense.

So we are working on getting her to operate the boat while I handle the dock lines She likes operating the helm, does well with it and is good at manovering in no - low current / wind areas. I expect that given her interest and willingness to operate the helm that by mid season this year she will be much better at docking.

But because of all the single handed docking I've had to do, I use lines a lot and am VERY familiar with springing and will now have to try your warping technique. All tricks and tips are eventually usefull when it comes to safely getting the boat to it's slip. We use to moore in LaConner where the slips are East / West and both the wind and current run North and South (except at the enterance to the marina where they swirl - I HATED our slip there!!!)

One thing though Somewhere above someone mentioned using the end of dock wheels. DO NOT MAKE THE MISTAKE I DID!!!!! The rubber tire uses the bolt as the axle. The one I was against had a tire that was so tight on the bolt that it turned the bolt. Apparently others has already turned it out to the point where on my use of it, it finally popped out and the 3/4 steel pipe scored a nice 2 foot long gash in my gelcoat. I was so upset that once docked, I raced down and got my foot caught in some deck rigging just as I was making the leap to the dock. I landed bad and broke my foot. That was over 2 years ago and my foot still hurts friom time to time.

Thankfully that's my only docking horror story.

-- Edited by carvendive on Monday 13th of December 2010 11:38:45 AM
 
We/I call it LINE/LINING a boat.* There might be a technical difference between what I call lining and warping? On LakeUnion lining is/was common as many of the boats are older classical and do not have fancy bow/stern thrusters.* Some of the really older classic boats, 1920 to 1950, do not have a transmission.* It was common for many of us to line a boat in/out of the slip as maneuvering was limited and most days the wind is/was up.* We had two classic old tugs, 70 ft and 90 ft, that where a bed and breakfast, Challenger, in our old marina. The 70 ft was started up in reverse as it had no transmission, direct drive.* So it had to be lined out of the slip and held straight before starring the engine in forward and letting her go. She T boned the dock and stopped 10 ft later, we all took off running.* When the tugs hit/push the dock you had to be ready to sit down or be knocked down and many times it was Oh shoot, *RUN!*
*

On wind days which was*common we had lines set in case we had to line the boat in.* A line form the stern and mid ship to the pilot house so they could be handed/tossed as we neared our slip.* On real windy days it was common for most boats in our marina so every body knew how to cleat the line, let the boat maneuver on it, and take in the line.* Always nice to have someone on the dock that knows how to handle the line even if not necessary or at least cleat the lines to maneuver.
*




-- Edited by Phil Fill on Monday 13th of December 2010 04:38:17 PM
 
Great story, Phil.* I love hearing how it was done in days past.* Having a knowledgable hand on the dock is great.* This day and time you have to be careful who you give a line to.* They can screw things up royally.

As Carey said, it seems to be a dying art.* It is a great thing to know as a fall back when modern equipment fails.
 
Some years ago I was on the dock helping someone warp/spring/lining*their boat in under very windy conditions. We got the midships* secured quickly and then the operator powered the stern in. The wife/mate tossed me a line for the stern and as I pulled and leaned into it very quickly-* oops -- it was not fixed to the boat and I did a backward somersault into the open next slip. Wet yes, but worth no points for my poor form upon entry.
 
IF all this effort of warping crews or bow and stern thrusters were actually needed , I believe most cruisers would be built with a round stern , like a harbor tug.

With a piling or sea wall to rest against , it is probably the most handy vessel in the harbo
 
Something I've noticed which took a while to figure, is what actually happens when we are coming off our fuel dock, which nearly always has the wind onto it. I get off by running a line from the forward cleat to the for'd dock bollard then back to the cleat and tied off with one loop, just for'd of my pilot side door. The SO lets the stern line go and brings it aboard or drops it if it is theirs. Then, when the boat moves forward under idle, with rudder towards the dock, unlike you'd expect, ie, that the bow would rub against the dock to pivot on, (but fortuitously beneficial to the paintwork, as it's nigh impossible to exactly position a fender in the right place), the boat actually takes up the slack in the line, moves out from the dock, and pivots on the for'd line, without the hull touching the dock. Once the stern is well clear, I slip into neutral, duck out and unloop and pull back the line on board, then a wee burst in reverse, then hard away from the dock in forward gear, and we're away laughing, no dramas. Works every time, and impresses the onlookers no end.
 
Warping a ship in was a common practice in Puget Sound with the lumber schooners in the late 1800s-early 1900s. The ships often had to be backed into very narrow inlets to the mills for loading.

Lining is the practice of using two or more lines to guide a move a boat through a water passage. I believe I've posted this before, but during the Klondike Gold Rush the miners would often line their homemade river craft through Miles Canyon and the White Horse rapids on the Yukon if they deemed it too dangerous to ride the boats down.* By playing the fore and aft lines to change the angle of the boat you can use the current against the sides of the boat to position it wherever you want in the stream.* It does not work with inflatables as there is nothing for the current to grip, as we found out when we tried to line a friends inflatable through the same shallow passage shown below.

The first photo below is a painting showing a lumber schooner being warped into the mill at Port Blakely on Puget sound. The second photo is of me lining our dinghy through a shallow rapids.
 

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Peter B wrote:

Then, when the boat moves forward under idle, with rudder towards the dock, unlike you'd expect, ie, that the bow would rub against the dock to pivot on, (but fortuitously beneficial to the paintwork, as it's nigh impossible to exactly position a fender in the right place), the boat actually takes up the slack in the line, moves out from the dock, and pivots on the for'd line, without the hull touching the dock.
This is the standard method of getting a boat off a dock that the wind or current is pushing it onto.* We use it all the time up here.*

We run the bow line under the bullrail and then back to the foredeck where my wife holds the bitter end.* Or you can take it around a cleat if the dock has them.* Most docks up here don't which is actually good because with a bullrail you can put the line wherever you want it relative to the boat.

A practice we learned from Carey is to always have at least one great big fender on the boat.* I don't mean a fender a size up from the normal ones, I mean a BIG one.* Huge would be a good description.* We carry two of them.

When we're ready to go we bring all lines aboard except the bow line that has been re-rigged around the bullrail.* My wife holds the bitter end of the bow line in one hand and one of the large fenders in the other.* We have a twin so I put the outboard (relative to the dock) engine in forward and the inboard engine in reverse and the rudder hard over toward the dock.* The propwalk moves the stern out and the thrust from the outboard prop agains the rudder moves the stern in the same direction.

The boat can't move forward because of the line my wife's holding and the bow goes hard in against the big fender she holds between the hull and the dock.* She never has any trouble positioning this fender, by the way, and since she's holding it she can move it to wherever it needs to be.

The stern powers out smartly.* If the wind is strong I add power to the engine that's in forward and often both of them.* We rarely do this maneuver at dead idle.* Usually it takes an addition of thrust against the rudder, sometimes a fair amount, to counter the wind that's pushing us onto the dock. So don't be afraid to add however much power it takes to move the stern out quickly.

The trick to making this work is to move the stern out much farther than you think you need.* The reason is that if the wind is strong--- and we've done this in winds as strong as 15 knots or so---* it will start blowing the boat back in the moment you start backing out.* Also, as you back out, the wind will blow the bow down toward the dock and since you're backing out, the chances are the bow will end up down on the boat behind you. I usually use a higher power setting than idle to back clear as quickly as possible.

So we pivot the stern out a good 60 degrees to the dock or more.* Once there, I put both engines in reverse and back us clear.* My wife lets the bitter end of the line go which runs back under the bullrail (or back around the cleat) and hauls in the end that's secured to the boat.

It takes far less time to do this it does to explain it, and it works perfectly every time.* We have gotten our boat out of a spot with only a few feet between us the boats in front of and behind us with a strong wind pushing us straight onto the dock.* It's one the handiest maneuvers we've ever learned.

This maneuver works great in single or twin engine boats.* Carey has used it to get off a dock in the same situation with his single-engine lobsterboat.* The only thing you gain with a twin is the propwalk from putting the inboard engine in reverse.* But with forward power against a hard-over rudder a single-engine boat can be pivoted out just as smartly.

In the photo below we were being shoved against the dock by winds that were blowing up to 15 knots or so.* It was still blowing like this the next morning when we left and we used the method described above to get off the dock.* Works like a charm.

*
 

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Marin wrote:

Warping a ship in was a common practice in Puget Sound with the lumber schooners in the late 1800s-early 1900s. The ships often had to be backed into very narrow inlets to the mills for loading.
Marin, I am glad that you shared the way that you "spring" away from the dock.* An important lesson there was the way you and your crew work together.* Each knowing their job.* Easy to see why folks were impressed.* I don't recall if you added this, but another reason for pulling the stern our at a large angle and backing away as far as practical, is that when you make you turn into the fairway the stern can have a tendency to over steer a little* It is a good precaution to allow for that.* As you say both springing in and out will work almost the same on a twin or single screw.

Great story and picture about warping the ship.* Before the Mighty Tennessee was tamed, Chattanooga had four rapids just down stream.* They were called the Suck, the Pot, the Pan, and the Skillet.* The steam boats coming up stream had to be warped to get through the rapids.* Of course that area is now 90-120 feet deep.

Hopefully this discussion will help some of the newer owners getting comfortable with handling their boats.* Plan your work, work your plan, and make adjustments as the realities of the situation dictate-----like Marin applying the proper amount of power for the situation.* Practice makes perfect as they say.

*
 
Moonstruck wrote:

I don't recall if you added this, but another reason for pulling the stern our at a large angle and backing away as far as practical, is that when you make you turn into the fairway the stern can have a tendency to over steer a little* It is a good precaution to allow for that.
In most situations I've found that the best way out is to spring the stern out as described, back the boat out and then just* continue to back around in a big arc until the boat is well away from the dock and pointing the way we want it to.* In some cases we've backed out and around using differential thrust and then put both engines in reverse and centered the rudders*to continue*backing clear of everything else before shifting to forward and turning the boat in the direction we want to go.

In some ways and in some situations I prefer backing the boat than going forward because with differential thrust and the rudders, it's more like driving a car in that I can steer the back end in the direction I want*the boat to go*while the front end stays more or less where it is.* As opposed to going foward where you steer the back end causing it*to swing*wide in a turn.* In tight quarters the stern could swing*into something before the boat actually headed in the new direction.

For example in a very narrow fairway, say between two long fingers with boats moored along each finger and*a narrow strip of water between them,*we will usually elect to back down the*length of the strip if the space we're going to is near the*head of the*dock.* I probably wouldn't do this in a single engine boat,*but if wind and current are not significant factors, we*find we*can more accurately*track right down the center of*the narrow strip of fairway in reverse using differential thrust*than we*can in*forward, where any rudder correction swings*the stern to the other side and possibly into the moored boat that's ony a few feet away.

Unfortuantely there's no one technique that fits all situations.* Except sinking.* That always works the same in every situation.*
 
Marin that was as good a description as what I was attemptingto describe, and more or less what we do also, even to the preferring to back well away at about 60 degress to the dock, rather than risk the stern swinging too close to dock or other boats, by powering hard over in forward gear. The thing I was trying to draw attention to, but clearly failed, was that I found it unnecessary to have my wife up near the bow trying to centre a fender between the bow quarter and the dock rubbing strip, because the bow, in our case anyway, (a twin might be different here), does not actually touch the dock, it pivots on the line itself, even tho that might seem to defy physics, presumably because the forward thrust accompanying the powering away from the dock adds a lateral force that takes the boat out as it tensions the for'd line. I only found this out because prior to our recent paint job, our hull finish was so bad I decided to not bother with more than the usual for'd fender, and then noticed the hull never touched the dock anyway. No doubt someone skilled in vector maths would come up with the equation to explain it, but on our boat anyway, that's what happens, so we don't need a humongous fender - not even a little one. Now I've not done it in winds over 20 knots, but......
 
Peter B wrote:

The thing I was trying to draw attention to, but clearly failed, was that I found it unnecessary to have my wife up near the bow trying to centre a fender between the bow quarter and the dock rubbing strip, because the bow, in our case anyway, (a twin might be different here), does not actually touch the dock, it pivots on the line itself,
That does not work on our boat, nor on the other boats I've watched use this same technique.* The side of the hull near the bow always goes hard in against the dock, put there by both the angle of*pull against the bow line that's*preventing the boat from moving forward and the wind itself.* So with us, at any rate, and the other boats we've watched do this, the fender is essential if one wants to preserve one's paint or gelcoat.* It would be nice if the bow stayed off the dock, and perhaps in some situations it would.

*


-- Edited by Marin on Thursday 16th of December 2010 07:14:10 PM
 
Several times I've needed to spring my boat out of a spot. It was strong current pinning the boat rather than the wind.
I carry two large beach balls and tie them to protect the hull. My boat will hit the dock without them.

The only time I had trouble was when a line caught on a big wood sliver, luckily the boat motion finally pulled it free. It taught me though that if someone asks me if I need help "pushing the boat off" I will say no, but please stick around, with the thought that something can go wrong.

Our boat is a single with quite a large rudder and a lot of power for a slow boat.
To date, I haven't needed to go more than just a hair above idle for this manouver.

Like you noted, most people that want to help are surprised.

And yes, we too produce a large angle of separation before letting go the line because the current is going to push me right back in. A smart back up and get in the clear and my wife & I will attend to the fenders.

A lot of people I see, and I've asked, do not carry lines long enough, nor fenders large enough, not even close, to pull this off.
 
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