What engine oil should I run?

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mvweebles

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Weebles
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1970 Willard 36 Trawler
I feel like I should know this but I don't. What engine oil should I be running in my 35 year old Perkins 4.236? I used to run Delo 30w, but wondering if there are better options.

She's in Ensenada but headed to a warm tropical climate. She burns less than a quart in 100 hours.

Thanks in advance

Peter
 
I will guess you mean straight 30 weight
I would continue to do the same. Brand less important as long as its a major produced. I rin Shell 30 wt in my Yanmar as it's only summer use and warm.
 
I have been using Rotella T4 for years in boats and motorcycles. It's great oil, widely available and inexpensive. Your Perkins will thrive on it.


A good friend of mine has a fleet of 25+ diesel work trucks and builds gas and diesel competition pulling tractors. He buys vast amounts of T4 and uses it in everything.
 
Can't speak to whether you should run straight 30 wt or 15w/40, but I switched to Shell Rotella T4 (15W/40) in my JD 4045 and am getting better oil analysis than I was with John Deere's premium oil. Been using the T4 in the Cummins in my Dodge for about 10 years. Switching in my JD has bottomed out the wear metals in about 3 oil changes. Wished I'd done it sooner.

Ted
 
What does the manufacturer recommended oil chart look like? Depending on what they suggest for viscosity, I'd probably run either a 15W-40 or 10W-30 HDEO (like the Rotella mentioned above). Likely no need for synthetic in your application and boats don't typically operate in cold enough conditions to need a 5W-40 or other synthetic-only grade. Modern multi-viscosity oils are a lot better than they used to be, so unless you have an engine known for extreme issues with shearing oil (like a 2 stroke Detroit), there's rarely a reason to run straight weight. I'd rather have the lower startup wear from a multi-grade.

Personally, I tend to default to HDEO type oils as my default oil for any engine (gas or diesel) unless the viscosity requirements for the engine dictate something else or there's a specific spec that's required (and no information available to indicate that something else will show good oil analysis, etc. if substituted).

I've mostly been using Delo rather than Rotella for the last few years because at some point, it became cheaper locally. Before that, everything got Rotella. Currently I've got 15W-40 in the boat (syn blend this time around as it was cheaper than the dino version), 5W-40 in 2 of the cars and the snowblower and their 10W-30 in the lawnmower. The 3rd car requires thinner oil, so it gets different stuff.
 
Hi, just to add my two penn'orth to the discussion.
Use Shell Rotella 15/40w DO NOT use any synthetic or semi synthetic oils, the engine tolerances weren't built for those oils and you may well find she'll burn more with no benefit.
I would also recommend you keep anti-freeze in all year round (even in the near tropics) because the additives in it lubricate your water pump and keep the galleries clean.
Your choice, but I never have to touch my engine apart from standard servicing and it still runs like a clock. Just one note of caution, if running in heavy seas (around Force 5) they will sometimes throw oil up into the rebreather so just keep a couple of pints handy for a quick top up in case you see the oil pressure gauge flicker.
 
Delo 400 or Rotella T4. Here in the NW I would recommend 15-40. In Florida I see no issues running straight 30.

Delo 100 is designed for 2 cycle diesels.
 
Peter,
If you think as I do that multi-vis oils have viscosity improvers that take up considerable space in the oil reducing the actual amount of oil in the oil you’ll run straight 30w in your boat.

MV is not needed in inboard boat engines unless the owner needs an oil that will gracefully permit high speed operation immediately after startup. Like a fireboat.

This is true because your properly cared for boat’s engine will never get below 40 degrees even w freezing weather outside. I ran 30w oil (Delo) in Alaska for many years. Cranked smartly and started up w/o any problem whatsoever. I warmed the engine up for 5 minutes or so getting ready to depart anyway. Then ran 1400 rpm for awhile to continue warming up.

I worked in a diesel electric powerhouse (1500kw) and w a very expensive 1400hp engine operated buy a professional engineer that called out Delo 30w. No need for VI.

Also the additive package in today’s 30w is much different (read “better”) than in the past. Modern straight 30w is a thoroughly modern product.

And w cars doing 300,000 miles the notion that oil needs MV to get the oil to the bearings sooner is 100% old wifes tale.

Just run 30w … there are no downsides.
 
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Peter,
If you think as I do that multi-vis oils have viscosity improvers that take up considerable space in the oil reducing the actual amount of oil in the oil you’ll run straight 30w in your boat.

The concerns around multi-vis oils (particularly those with a wide viscosity spread) aren't generally about them not lubing as well. They lubricate just fine (wear protection is as much a function of the additive package as it is the base oil and a bit of VII isn't going to hurt that).

However, they do shear down to a lower viscosity more easily. How much the oil will shear and whether it's a concern of not depends both on the oil in question and the engine it's being run in. Some engines shear oils much worse than others. And some multi grade oils have a lot more VII than others. A 10W-40 non-synthetic has a lot of VII, for example. While a 15W-40 synthetic will (by the nature of the base stock) need far less VII to reach the 15W-40 viscosity specs and will therefore be less shear prone. That's why some grades are only available as synthetic (like 5W-40 or 0W-40) as a conventional base stock would need an impractical amount of VII to achieve that grade.
 
My Perkins 4.236 was perfectly happy with Delo 30wt.
My road diesel is just as happy with Rotella. You can't go very wrong with either.
 
Something I forgot ..
With turbos one should go strictly by the book.

But Peter (the OP) he’s got an old Perkins.

rslifkin’s point about all MV oils are not the same is good. If you actually need MV use the smaller range like 10-30 and steer very wide re the wide range oils like 10-40 or 5-30. And re synthetics the wide range is less evil. Some oils containing a synthetic component perform as a MV oil w/o any MV’s at all.

And everyone should use only what the book recommends. And yes my Mitsubishi Klaassen includes straight 30 re the recommended oils. But some manufacturers will not include 30w Just because of the MV popularity. People tend to lean toward popular things w a mindset that pop is mod, mod is good.

Another thought;
15-40 oil is not designed for boats. There is no non-OB oil that is designed for boats. We use lube oil designed for trucks or cars. MV is an oil formulated for engines exposed to the weather. That’s what brought it about. MV oil was designed for the army to keep their vehicles running in the Arctic. After some time then we had 10-30 for cars. We used 20w before that in the winter. When I say w30 oil the “w” stands for winter. We only really need it for winter. BUT people like to start up their car and drive it like it was warm when it’s cold so it became popular to use 10-30 the year-round.

But we don’t need it for boats. The boat engine almost never is subject to temps below 40 degrees f. And most all of us warm up our engines before going to cruise or higher engine loads.
 
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i agree with you Nomad Willy about mv not really being needed, however i would say that an oil like 15w-40 was specifically designed for a broad range of engines and has positive factors like high detergentcy that will extend engine life. i had heavy trucks for years with cummins, cat and Detroit 60 engines and always used delo 400. i would say that brand consistency is important, engines seem to like consistency more than brand so use the oil that's always been used. there is little variation in the formula of major oils, and less quality differences, but engines seem to know.
 
My boat has a Perkins 4.236. A good friend of mine happens to work for Northern Lights, used to work for John Deere Marine Propulsion, and before that, owned an auto repair shop for over 20-years. Needless to say, he knows a lot about the innards of engines, including old ones.

He owns a mid-1980s Roughwater 37 with a Perkins 6.354 natural. I asked him what oil he recommends.

"Delo 400 15-40 (API rated CK-4 or CJ-4); or equivilent. Shell Rotella T 15-40 is equivilent."

It's what I now run.

Peter.
 
I just change the oil and the tech said 15W-40 for the main engine and generator. 30W for the transmission.
I ask about mixing oil brands. He said, if they meet the same specs ie 15-40, no problem.
 
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