What to do - Refrigerator?

[Bustlebomb]

I’ve got a dilemma.

Currently, I have an older cold plate system on my boat. The 110v compressor (a Copeland) works but there is a leak somewhere in the lines that doesn’t allow me to keep coolant in it for more than a couple of months. Add to that the fact that the icebox is completely worn out. It fills with frost when used as it has multiple cracks in the interior that allow air/moisture into the box. It also allows moisture to get into the foam insulation which I’m sure by now is probably soaked and not insulating very well.

In order for me to get the system running correctly, I need to replace the lines and rebuild the box. Replacing the lines is doable but I have no experience building a refrigerator box. Anyone ever built one?

In my garage, I have an almost brand new isotherm refrigerator (12 V/110). To install this would be simpler and would merely require some modifications to the cabinet and installation of a vent.

I’m on the fence here as to what to do and thought I would seek some feedback.

Thanks.

 

[PMF1984]

Well I love my isotherm, just sayin...

 

[alormaria]

I'd go with the refrigerator.

 

[FlyWright]

I'd go with the Isotherm. You'll save many amp-hours in reduced power requirements compared to legacy systems.

I replaced my old Norcold with a new NovaKool and saved power while gaining fridge volume.

 

[Comodave]

Put in the new refer. Just put in 2 vents, 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom. I also added a 50 mAmp fan that blows air into the box when the compressor is running. Our refer works so much better since I did those modifications.

 

[Brooksie]

I would surely go with the newer refrigerator if it is a Danfoss sp? compressor. Strap on as much extra foam board as you can if you have extra room in your space. It is much easier to store your cooling in your battery bank than in cold plates anyway. You can always put some blue cold packs in the freezer compartment if it makes you feel better too.

 

[koliver]

I’ve got a dilemma.

Currently, I have an older cold plate system on my boat. The 110v compressor (a Copeland) works but there is a leak somewhere in the lines that doesn’t allow me to keep coolant in it for more than a couple of months. Add to that the fact that the icebox is completely worn out. It fills with frost when used as it has multiple cracks in the interior that allow air/moisture into the box. It also allows moisture to get into the foam insulation which I’m sure by now is probably soaked and not insulating very well.

In order for me to get the system running correctly, I need to replace the lines and rebuild the box. Replacing the lines is doable but I have no experience building a refrigerator box. Anyone ever built one?

In my garage, I have an almost brand new isotherm refrigerator (12 V/110). To install this would be simpler and would merely require some modifications to the cabinet and installation of a vent.

I’m on the fence here as to what to do and thought I would seek some feedback.

Thanks.

Before you use the isotherm, check to see if it is an AC fridge with a built in inverter, to allow using it on DC, or is it a DC fridge with a rectifier to allow it to work on AC. There is a big difference in DC draw when you are not plugged into shore power. I assume your boat was set up for being at anchor, hence the cold plate, so as to not have excessive draw on your batteries.

In either event, you will likely need to add batteries to run a (non-coldplate) fridge while at anchor.

When I changed out my AC/DC for DC only, my draw dropped from 10 to 12 amps to less than 3 amps. I was able to cut my house batteries to half.
If I had a cold plate, I could have cut my house batteries further still.

 

[Bustlebomb]

KOliver,

It’s a Cruise 130 Elegance with the Danfoss compressor. I’m not sure how to tell if it is an AC/inverter or a DC/rectifier unit. Any pointers?

House bank is 8 Trojan T-105 6 volts so should be good on reserve capacity to power a 12v refrigerator.

 

[Bustlebomb]

Put in the new refer. Just put in 2 vents, 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom. I also added a 50 mAmp fan that blows air into the box when the compressor is running. Our refer works so much better since I did those modifications.

Comodave - confirm you blow your air into the box (forcing it out the top) or is the fan at the top pulling air out of the box?

 

[Frosty]

It’s a Cruise 130 Elegance with the Danfoss compressor. I’m not sure how to tell if it is an AC/inverter or a DC/rectifier unit. Any pointers?

This is essentially a DC refrigerator. The module that allows it to also run on AC is an upgrade, but you could (theoretically) replace it with the DC-only control module.

To put it another way, the more basic version of the compressor controller (that's the black box where you attach your power wires) would be DC-only. I have a Vitrifrigo 130 (same compressor as your Cruise 130), and Vitrifrigo gives you the option of buying it as DC-only, or paying a bit more and getting the module that also allows AC. Isotherm may just "give" you the AC option automatically on the Elegance.

So, long story short, you could wire the compressor up to DC only and it will work just fine. If you add the AC wires to it, then it will switch to AC when AC is available.

 

[BruceK]

Nigel Calder has an excellent book on Refrigeration. Design,construction, operation, and the various types. Big plus of "cold plate" types is it gets the fridges off the batteries. My last boat had a good system powering both fridge and separate freezer.
Mine was "mains" electric driven, marina or genset, took a while to pull down initially,but a friend with an engine driven compressor reported very quick pull down. Having both would be ideal.

 

[jgtrucking]

I’ve got a dilemma.

Currently, I have an older cold plate system on my boat. The 110v compressor (a Copeland) works but there is a leak somewhere in the lines that doesn’t allow me to keep coolant in it for more than a couple of months. Add to that the fact that the icebox is completely worn out. It fills with frost when used as it has multiple cracks in the interior that allow air/moisture into the box. It also allows moisture to get into the foam insulation which I’m sure by now is probably soaked and not insulating very well.

In order for me to get the system running correctly, I need to replace the lines and rebuild the box. Replacing the lines is doable but I have no experience building a refrigerator box. Anyone ever built one?

In my garage, I have an almost brand new isotherm refrigerator (12 V/110). To install this would be simpler and would merely require some modifications to the cabinet and installation of a vent.

I’m on the fence here as to what to do and thought I would seek some feedback.

Thanks.

Im am a big believer in the cold plate systems. I can leave it un powered 48hrs with no problems. New plates, lines, and compressor are very expensive. I repaired my r12 system.
If you are going to re work the box, try ceramic blanket insulation..

 

[PM]

I like the electric (12 volt) coolers. They are pricey and some have pretty heavy amp draw but they are nice for overload stuff that you like to keep cool but not down into your refrigerator coolness. Things like lettuce, some fruit, maybe cheese. Just run them a few hours a day, preferable while the genny is running or underway.

Some have a pretty big footprint compared to usable space but probably no worse than the premium insulated coolers.

BUT... There is no substitute for a 12Volt/110 volt front opening refrigerator.

pete

 

[FF]

The cold plate setup is superb at holding the box for a long period of time before demanding more energy.

If you are mostly dockside, and just tour on weekends , it would be great as there would be no battery drain or noise.

If you operate daily for long enough you can have a day or two on the hook, no effort or dead batts.

The Copeland is a super compressor and might be sold if an RV box fridge is chosen.

The real low cost reefer is an AC under counter unit with an inverter and some ice packs in the freezer.

The proper way to insulate a failed reefer is to purchase a large block of pro made blown insulation and carve it to fit as one piece to fit the space.Glass the inside .

Insulation only gets a good R value if totally expanded , the home squirt in place seldom has enough expansion room so comes out with 1/2 to 1/4 the R value you purchased.

 

[tn6437]

i have an isotherm refigerator /freezer, two door. they have seperate cooling systems. the freezer died, wondering if the freezer mechanicals can be rebuilt. i hate to have to buy a new combo unit when the refrigerator part works fine

 

[hmason]

I’m going thru the exact same scenario. I’ve made my decision. I’m installing whatever it takes to rejuvenate the cold plate system. I know it may be costly however we live aboard and appreciate the quiet and usefulness at anchor. I refuse to pull apart the beautiful teak cabinetry to accommodate a fridge. The cold plate system worked perfectly for 25 years and I doubt a fridge will do the same.

 

[Frosty]

i have an isotherm refigerator /freezer, two door. they have seperate cooling systems. the freezer died, wondering if the freezer mechanicals can be rebuilt. i hate to have to buy a new combo unit when the refrigerator part works fine

On the face of it, this sounds like you might have a DC compressor refrigerator with a BD35/BD50 compressor for each side. If so, these are very diagnosable and oftentimes repairable. If it's the electronic control unit it's plug and play. They have some built in diagnostics.

Just post back if you want to pursue that here in the forum. If you can get a photo of the compressor and control unit, so much the better. And/or a model number of your Isotherm.

 

[PMF1984]

I had a problem with the top (fridge) part of my isotherm unit. I just bought the top and played with the trim to make it all work.