Winterization fluid

[paulga]

Is the drain plug a flat head screw? I saw one at the bottom
The muffler make is vernalift

In many / most cases you can use a shop vac to suck water out of strainers for the ac/ heat. Then use the same vac to blow the water out of the lines. Double check that muffler for a small black drain plug around the bottom perimeter. I think mine is a 3/8 square head.

 

[Bmarler]

A 15/16" wrench fits these nuts

What is the loosen direction? I tested both directions but it's tight, even though I already soaked the nuts with wd40 many times.

If it does not budge, any method to loosen without damaging it?

View attachment 144097

Those should be standard thread. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. I’d get in there with a scotchbrite pad and clean those up a little, so when you loosen them the nuts will slide easily on the pipes. Those tend to build a little green crud inside the fitting, so be patient. Get the area at the end of the nut good and clean as it helps the penetrant get in there.
Always be sure to hold the fitting as you try to loosen the nut. Otherwise you’ll bend the pipes and have trouble re assembling. Use a good set of channel locks, or a big crescent wrench to hold the fitting, then use the end wrench on the nut.
They’re just hard to do right now, because it’s been a long time since they were apart. If you do this every year it’ll get easier.

 

[paulga]

maybe aiming a butane torch at the nut for half a minute, heat expands the copper so it should be easier to loosen?

if it's similar to a nut on a bolt, when the wrench is applied on the highlighted nut below, I should push the handle away to loosen it?

Those should be standard thread. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. I’d get in there with a scotchbrite pad and clean those up a little, so when you loosen them the nuts will slide easily on the pipes. Those tend to build a little green crud inside the fitting, so be patient. Get the area at the end of the nut good and clean as it helps the penetrant get in there.
Always be sure to hold the fitting as you try to loosen the nut. Otherwise you’ll bend the pipes and have trouble re assembling. Use a good set of channel locks, or a big crescent wrench to hold the fitting, then use the end wrench on the nut.
They’re just hard to do right now, because it’s been a long time since they were apart. If you do this every year it’ll get easier.

 

[mvweebles]

A 15/16" wrench fits these nuts

What is the loosen direction? I tested both directions but it's tight, even though I already soaked the nuts with wd40 many times.

If it does not budge, any method to loosen without damaging it?

View attachment 144097

These are flare fittings. The end of the copper tube has been flared beneath the brass collar nut (red arrow) Get a wrench on the tee (purple dot) to hold it from turning and damaging the attached copper tubing. Then turn the collar nut in the direction indicated to loosen fitting and remove the end.

Further to Bmarler, as far as loosening a tight fitting, often you can orient the two wrenches in a manner that you can squeeze them together with the grip of your hands (sort of like squeezing a citrus juicer), or get the stationary one (purple dot) fixed against the floor or wall so you can lean-in to the wrench rotating the nut. Re-assembly is the reverse with a wrench holding the tee fitting stationary. Most mechanics/plumbers really bear down on these to get a leak free connection on the flare fitting which is why it's so hard to remove. Once you get even a fraction of a turn loose, the fitting will become easily disassembled.

Peter

 

[Larry M]

Good advise from Bmarler and mvweebles. I wouldn’t use a touch. This isn’t a frozen bolt or nut plus you’re in a tight space and the fire potential on a boat?

 

[mvweebles]

Good advise from Bmarler and mvweebles. I wouldn’t use a touch. This isn’t a frozen bolt or nut plus you’re in a tight space and the fire potential on a boat?

I agree, no torch needed even if it was safe. Figure out how to get a wrench on the tee so it's wedged tight against the wall behind it, to hold it firm then you can really womp on the 15/16" wrench, perhaps tap it a bit with another large wrench. It only has to loosen a bit to break free.

Peter

 

[paulga]

Thanks for the hints. it's behind the gen, it only fits one person down there, so only two hands. this is difficult.

when you squeeze both wrenches in one hand like a juicer, how do you rotate the wrench on the left or even tap it using another object?

I agree, no torch needed even if it was safe. Figure out how to get a wrench on the tee so it's wedged tight against the wall behind it, to hold it firm then you can really womp on the 15/16" wrench, perhaps tap it a bit with another large wrench. It only has to loosen a bit to break free.

Peter

 

[mvweebles]

I'm not sure how to better explain. The wrench on the collar but would be about 10-20 degrees to the left of the wrench on the tee. When you squeeze the two handles together, the wrench on the collar nut goes to the right in the picture, but "Lefty Loosie" (anti-clockeise) as far as the nut is concerned. But if you can get a channel lock on the tee and wedge it agaisnt the wall, that works too. All you have to do is push the bench on collar but towards the wall. If there's not room to tap. Then you'll have to use brute strength as best you can. Or move the generator to get clearance.

Warning. If clearance is an issue, do not screw-up and booger-up the fittings by not holding the tee stationary with a wrench. At some point you'll make that mistake (we all do - it's a learning experience). Just don't do it here where you have clearance issues that may require generator to be moved to resolve.

Hope that makes sense.

Peter

 

[Bmarler]

Thanks for the hints. it's behind the gen, it only fits one person down there, so only two hands. this is difficult.

when you squeeze both wrenches in one hand like a juicer, how do you rotate the wrench on the left or even tap it using another object?

The act of squeezing is what turns the wrench. Some of these techniques are tough to explain, but very simple to do.

 

[paulga]

moving the 440 lbs genny is out of the question

light night i already tried loosening the nut without holding the T. but it didn't rotate, so i guess the flare tube had not been damaged yet.

will try more turns this weekend

I'm not sure how to better explain. The wrench on the collar but would be about 10-20 degrees to the left of the wrench on the tee. When you squeeze the two handles together, the wrench on the collar nut goes to the right in the picture, but "Lefty Loosie" (anti-clockeise) as far as the nut is concerned. But if you can get a channel lock on the tee and wedge it agaisnt the wall, that works too. All you have to do is push the bench on collar but towards the wall. If there's not room to tap. Then you'll have to use brute strength as best you can. Or move the generator to get clearance.

Warning. If clearance is an issue, do not screw-up and booger-up the fittings by not holding the tee stationary with a wrench. At some point you'll make that mistake (we all do - it's a learning experience). Just don't do it here where you have clearance issues that may require generator to be moved to resolve.

Hope that makes sense.

Peter

 

[paulga]

I was able to loosen one nut , now I see how the tubing and flare t and nut work together.

However, the copy tubings are fixed against the bulkhead ， with the nut loosen, I still cannot wiggle or take the tubing off the t. Absolutely no room for cap or plug

In a freezing night, I need turn off fw pump and open the transom shower faucets to hopefully prevent freezing. If looks I have to repeat the drill through the winter

 

[paulga]

Btw, is it 45 degree flare