Adventures of a new boat owner(1979 Mainship 34')

[Mrwesson]

My name is Wes and as of yesterday I'm a new owner of a 1979 34' mainship . I lied about being a new boat owner but this is my first boat in this class(16-20' fishing boats till now).

I'm based out of Tallahassee but plan to keep the boat in Carabelle or Panacea.

For right now the boat will be used as a weekend retreat but sometime this year or starting next my wife and I plan on taking a long trip(probably Bahamas).

I've owned quite a few smaller boats(up to 20') and consider myself above average around the dock so I took the girl out for a spin alone yesterday. I set up some buoys to practice docking(no bow thruster/never handled a boat that big) and spent some time out there in the wind. Actually backed her in her spot on the first try afterwards(proud of that one).

Then I got cocky and pulled back out for some more practice.. Had to leave the marina for another approach after failing a few times . No real risk of bumping other boats but it didn't look pretty.

I got her lined up perfectly again put her in neutral to tie up. While coming off the bridge ladder she starts going backward . I ran into the salon and knocked her back in forward and gassed her. Missed the bulkhead by 1'(probably looked good though). Note to self make sure i'm in the middle of neutral.. She bumped into reverse.

34' mainship
200hp Perkins turbo T6
5kw Kohler genset(seems more powerful but i'll look into it)
Expensive battery charger/Rewire(c-charger still researching)
Coleman rooftop AC(don't love it)
Updated salon furniture(going to change it)
Windlass

Boat is solid but the coring seems wet on the flybridge(strong but I can't tolerate rot). Works well for now but i'm no stranger to fiberglass work(had 5 boats all under 5k). I'm itchy thinking about it. I'll probably divide it in half and do each half separately(recoring/working up glass). Going to wait until fall.

Isn't getting the speed I expected but the boat is kept in freshwater(spring fed) and I noticed some alge growth(bottom painted last year). I plan on running her to "the shoal" the clear water should allow me to give her a scrubbing.



Other than that she's "turn key"(no such thing).

 

[DavidM]

Welcome aboard. I don't think those blank postings will do you much good as this forum does not allow edits after a few hours.

David

 

[Mrwesson]

Shakedown run and walkaround.

 

[dhays]

Welcome. Sounds like you will really enjoy the boat.

Based on what you posted, it sounds as if you bought the boat without a survey, engine survery and sea trial? Most here will tell you that it is money well spent. A sea trial would have told you what the speed was at WOT as well as at typical cruise. It also would have told you exactly what the condition the bottom was in.

 

[Comodave]

I would guess that you will get about 10 - 12 knot cruise with a 200 hp. Looks like a nice boat. I really like the layout for a 34' boat. Good luck and enjoy the ride...

 

[Marlinmike]

Guy in my marina has the same boat, he has a set way he spins in a circle right in front of his slip and backs right in, anyone that watches it is impressed.

 

[bayview]

10-12 KT cruise seems mighty ambitions on a 34' to me.

Why not start of with a good quick haul, bottom scrub and prop inspection.
then you will have a proper baseline of performance.

 

[bayview]

It is great that you have a good example of how it's done. Maybe he would give you some tips

 

[Keysdisease]

With a clean bottom and prop, 1/2 fuel and normal load a MS34 MKI with 200HP should top out at 14-15 knots. She will transition to plane at about 13. Big trim tabs (42 x 12) will help it wallow up onto plane.

I find comfortable cruise with the bow just up a bit to reduce "wander" at about 8-9 knots. Anything between 10 and 13 is just pushing a lot of water

$0.02

 

[KenM]

And my 2 cents..... definitely a bow (or stern) thruster .. it makes close quarter maneuvers soooo much easier.

 

[Mrwesson]

Welcome. Sounds like you will really enjoy the boat.

Based on what you posted, it sounds as if you bought the boat without a survey, engine survery and sea trial? Most here will tell you that it is money well spent. A sea trial would have told you what the speed was at WOT as well as at typical cruise. It also would have told you exactly what the condition the bottom was in.

I poked around every nook and cranny(spend a few hours on the boat) then on day 2 I went for a sea trial(ran great).

I've bought many smaller boats and mostly know what to look for and the boat was IMO a great price(and local = Huge bonus) @ 25k.

I plan on spending another 10k on upgrades/fixes.

If it was in the 40k range I would have but didn't feel it necessary @ 25k with a large cushion.

I would guess that you will get about 10 - 12 knot cruise with a 200 hp. Looks like a nice boat. I really like the layout for a 34' boat. Good luck and enjoy the ride...

She's topping out around 11mph right now but I have been playing with the trim tabs. Seems to plow but not plane. Haven't spent much time running though(have large trim tabs).

10-12 KT cruise seems mighty ambitions on a 34' to me.

Why not start of with a good quick haul, bottom scrub and prop inspection.
then you will have a proper baseline of performance.

It's on the short list but where it currently sits no such service available. I want to do some touch ups/slight upgrades where it is.

It is great that you have a good example of how it's done. Maybe he would give you some tips

I did it twice so far. Once alone with an afternoon breeze and the 2nd time with my wife in a solid 20 knot wind. Got it in the spot first try both times.

With a clean bottom and prop, 1/2 fuel and normal load a MS34 MKI with 200HP should top out at 14-15 knots. She will transition to plane at about 13. Big trim tabs (42 x 12) will help it wallow up onto plane.

I find comfortable cruise with the bow just up a bit to reduce "wander" at about 8-9 knots. Anything between 10 and 13 is just pushing a lot of water

$0.02

Found this to be true but my 2nd time out the seas were not suitable for speed runs. It has trim tabs but i'm unsure the size(look pretty big).

And my 2 cents..... definitely a bow (or stern) thruster .. it makes close quarter maneuvers soooo much easier.

So far I don't think I need it. I can get it to turn around in its only length plus about 10' with alot of bumping reverse/forward.

Trick so far is since she backs perfectly straight to max out the rudder when parking(depending on approach) and bump her forward and back.

Scary as hell the first time.

 

[Lou_tribal]

She backs perfectly straight? On a single screw?

L.

 

[Mrwesson]

She backs perfectly straight? On a single screw?

L.

Yeah I don't get how there's no prop walk or anything but there's just about zero steering in reverse.

 

[KenM]

So far I don't think I need it. I can get it to turn around in its only length plus about 10' with alot of bumping reverse/forward.

Yes, it certainly can be done, but it is ALOT easier with a thruster.
I also find almost no steering in reverse, a bit of prop walk. Use the thruster to "aim" and then hit reverse. Not perfect in a strong wind

 

[Mrwesson]

How hard would it be to tow this around locally(would be nice to have a runabout/tender)?

I also feel that this little boat needs its own little paragraph. 16' Henry-O center console made by one of the Mckee brothers who went out on his own(they split from Boston Whaler). Foam filled and this little boat rides like no other boat. The deadrise is great for 2' chop(real 2' chop) and i've had her out in 4' seas(snotty 20mph wind stuff). That weird bow shape knocks down the spray making it one of the driest boats i've owned.

I'll put it this way. My previous boat was a Hydrasport 20' Kevlar hull with 22 degrees of deadrise and trim tabs. A very respectable boat but this boat rides better .

If you ever find some poor sap who's willing to sell you one you'd be smart to buy it.

Back to the topic.


Wallpaper is evil! Typical Wife "I hate this wallpaper" "new flooring" etc but she's right.

Outing number 3 and she performed very well but wont "plane out" which is no big deal but just pushes water @ 10/11mph. I'm going to investigate to make sure the trim tabs are getting full swing. Cruises very nicely @ 1500rpm @ 7-8knots.

She performed very well in the south 15mph wind and incoming tide building up the seas a bit.

Following seas are well not a strong point but with a sharp entry and flatter back to be expected.

I bought the boat with a SI-tex sp-70 autopilot knowing someone stole the processor(previous owner claimed work done/guy took off). After checking around Si-tex wanted $700 for a new one.

Found one on ebay guaranteed to work(with compass/wiring) for $175 . Wiring it up should be interesting in this heat we're having.

I can't wait to get it because although I love trawler speeds(relaxing) I don't care to be constantly making corrections at the wheel. I hope to integrate it into my Garmin GPSMAP 3205 for serious automation(vigilant automation BTW).

Not paying attention is irresponsible regardless of speed and with the amount of crab traps around my home waters would be expensive as well.

The boat is currently in a very tidal marina so leaving at low tide can be difficult/impossible. I looked into a closer/deeper marina and @ 3x the price decided I can deal with it . Money saved will go towards even more upgrades/fixes.

Boat has 20' outriggers that can make bridge navigation difficult. I like to fish and plan on using the boat to troll/fish but not sure I need them(never used outriggers). Should I take them off and sell them?

 

[Mrwesson]

I'm going to undertake an interesting project
1. Save money duh
2. It sounds interesting.
3. I'm a sucker to learn my own "lessons".

The boat has a rooftop coleman ac that works well but is noisy. Put simply I hate it. It also has a portable LG A/C in the cabin. Nice unit but it gets in the way.

After doing some research on the differences between marine units I came up with an idea. Replace the air cooled coil with a water cooled coil and plumb it with enough seawater. Next thing is knowing that a standard coil wouldn't last a week before corroding into a mess I found out i'm not the first one to have this idea.

cupro nickel coil is what's needed to stand up to the salt water so I found one(wasn't easy) for $129 on ebay.

This thread was very helpful.
Window ac converted for marine use - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

Going to buy a 10,000 BTU(or larger) window unit, Take it apart, Bring it to a licensed HVAC guy, have him remove refrigerant, take home/solder in coil, and bring it back for him to charge it.

After that I can test it on a water hose and then move on to installing a 3GPM pump to supply the seawater. Then finally work on running the ductwork.

First time typing all that out and it sounds like a stupid way to save some $$ but i'm a curious soul.

Backup plan is to buy a 16.5btu unit used for under 1k.

Place your bets fellas.

 

[Gdavid]

I admire your creativity with the Air conditioning hack. At the risk of being a naysayer, you would probably reduce your overall expense and aggravation by going with a marine unit. That said it is interesting and there is no reason it cannot be made to work. I think you may regret the unit not being ducted. On our mainship 34' it only has one unit but it is ducted to the saloon and the V berth which does a good job of keeping it comfortable. Does your boat have a cabinet aft of the galley, across from the lower helm? Is this where the unit will be mounted? One significant advantage to the marine specific ducted units is reduced noise because the compressor and fan are located remotely, on ours it is below the galley countertop in the aft port corner. If you proceed with this experiment use a high strength solder like silfos to handle the pressure of your refrigerant lines. A major benefit of a window unit or water cooled unit is the avoidance of field joints, having the entire refrigerant loop undisturbed from the factory with the correct amount of Freon charge. Once you start opening it up and making your own connections, it is far more likely to cause headaches.

 

[Jeff F]

I'm going to undertake an interesting project
1. Save money duh
2. It sounds interesting.
3. I'm a sucker to learn my own "lessons".

The boat has a rooftop coleman ac that works well but is noisy. Put simply I hate it. It also has a portable LG A/C in the cabin. Nice unit but it gets in the way.

After doing some research on the differences between marine units I came up with an idea. Replace the air cooled coil with a water cooled coil and plumb it with enough seawater. Next thing is knowing that a standard coil wouldn't last a week before corroding into a mess I found out i'm not the first one to have this idea.

cupro nickel coil is what's needed to stand up to the salt water so I found one(wasn't easy) for $129 on ebay.

This thread was very helpful.
Window ac converted for marine use - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

Going to buy a 10,000 BTU(or larger) window unit, Take it apart, Bring it to a licensed HVAC guy, have him remove refrigerant, take home/solder in coil, and bring it back for him to charge it.

After that I can test it on a water hose and then move on to installing a 3GPM pump to supply the seawater. Then finally work on running the ductwork.

First time typing all that out and it sounds like a stupid way to save some $$ but i'm a curious soul.

Backup plan is to buy a 16.5btu unit used for under 1k.

Place your bets fellas.

My 16000 built in unit uses a 500 gph pump, and they're not cheap. Ducts run to the forward cabin, head and salon. The unit is aft of the sink. Only issue with my installation is that there is no return duct and in hot weather I need to open the locker door under the sink to ensure adequate return air flow. The (newer) fridge blocks the flow from the louvre.

 

[ranger58sb]

With a clean bottom and prop, 1/2 fuel and normal load a MS34 MKI with 200HP should top out at 14-15 knots. She will transition to plane at about 13. Big trim tabs (42 x 12) will help it wallow up onto plane.

We had a MkIII with 220-hp DD 8.2T. From memory, I think tops was 14 kts. Could cruise at 12 but it was too noisey, normally stayed at about 8-9 kts, IIRC.

She backs perfectly straight? On a single screw?

Yeah I don't get how there's no prop walk or anything but there's just about zero steering in reverse.

Our stern would walk to port in short bursts of reverse. ("Bursts" meaning just shifting into gear, no throttle.)

I could steer sorta straight in reverse, once given a head of steam, but that took a bit of fairway to achieve... And the "straight" didn't necessarily mean I could steer where I wanted to go.

-Chris

 

[Mrwesson]

I admire your creativity with the Air conditioning hack. At the risk of being a naysayer, you would probably reduce your overall expense and aggravation by going with a marine unit. That said it is interesting and there is no reason it cannot be made to work. I think you may regret the unit not being ducted. On our mainship 34' it only has one unit but it is ducted to the saloon and the V berth which does a good job of keeping it comfortable. Does your boat have a cabinet aft of the galley, across from the lower helm? Is this where the unit will be mounted? One significant advantage to the marine specific ducted units is reduced noise because the compressor and fan are located remotely, on ours it is below the galley countertop in the aft port corner. If you proceed with this experiment use a high strength solder like silfos to handle the pressure of your refrigerant lines. A major benefit of a window unit or water cooled unit is the avoidance of field joints, having the entire refrigerant loop undisturbed from the factory with the correct amount of Freon charge. Once you start opening it up and making your own connections, it is far more likely to cause headaches.

Winner winner.

Basically the limiting factor after some research.. I need alot of BTU's and would..
1.Have to run 2 units(that means 2 coils)
2. HVAC labor makes it not worth it.
3. Probably a bunch of other things but that's where I stopped.

I'm going to buy a used unit. Still not sold on BTU's but I doubt I'll have tons of choices. Right now the top canidate is a 16.5k BTU flagship unit in good shape with a water pump for $850. The catch is a 3 hour drive but I doubt i'll do better.

My 16000 built in unit uses a 500 gph pump, and they're not cheap. Ducts run to the forward cabin, head and salon. The unit is aft of the sink. Only issue with my installation is that there is no return duct and in hot weather I need to open the locker door under the sink to ensure adequate return air flow. The (newer) fridge blocks the flow from the louvre.

I'm lucky in the previous owner installed some ducts for the portable unit for fresh air.

I'll do more research but would a 5gpm washdown pump do the trick or does it create too much pressure?

We had a MkIII with 220-hp DD 8.2T. From memory, I think tops was 14 kts. Could cruise at 12 but it was too noisey, normally stayed at about 8-9 kts, IIRC.






Our stern would walk to port in short bursts of reverse. ("Bursts" meaning just shifting into gear, no throttle.)

I could steer sorta straight in reverse, once given a head of steam, but that took a bit of fairway to achieve... And the "straight" didn't necessarily mean I could steer where I wanted to go.

-Chris

Don't know why that extra bit of speed bothers me but it does. Mostly because I want to know everything is in good order. I'm going to have her hauled out sometime soon to check everything out.

Mine backs straight but you can forget about steering. Only does that when going forward.

I'm getting the hang of it but for the mean time have 300k worth of liability(doubt every boat in my Marina = that but some reassurance).


I can add on Comprehensive(didn't at the time) for ~$650 a year(large deductible/30k cash/disaster situation/fire/sinking).. I'm on the fence it being a 25k boat but would sleep better.

 

[Gdavid]

I'll do more research but would a 5gpm washdown pump do the trick or does it create too much pressure?

You need to consider additional factors other than flow rate for your circulation pump. The flow rate and head pressure requirements for the circulation pump are really quite low but the pump needs to be continuous duty as it may run for days on end without break. You will also want a quiet pump. You want to have a AC voltage powered pump because that is what you need to power the air conditioner anyway and running a DC voltage pump continuously will require constant charging of the batteries. When you consider these factors it helps justify the ~$230 cost for a March pump. The magnetic drive these pumps have allow for a long service life because they don't have a shaft to seal and they protect the pump from burning up the motor if (when) you get a blockage. The guy on thehullforum used a fish tank pump which would have most of the features you need but keep in mind that these pumps are not self priming (neither are the March) and therefore need to be located below the waterline. Any plumbing below the waterline connected to the sea presents a flooding opportunity if the case breaks and a fish tank pump is not engineered with this in mind. A fish tank pump's motor isn't ignition protected either but less of an issue for a diesel boat but something to keep in mind and could pop up on a survey.

It is smart to keep an open mind for alternative ways to accomplish things but remember to carefully consider why the conventional products are used. Before you buy a used unit, try calling around a bit and see if a scratch & dent or open box kind of unit is available. An installer may have a decent used unit that most boaters would not pay to have installed but would have value to a diy boater like yourself.

 

[Alaskasbear]

Are you sure its 200hp? Mine is 165hp. Same year as yours. I didnt think the 200 hp came out until 81-82. Top speed is 12 knots WOT. Cruises at 7-8 burning about 1.5 gph . WOT is about 4+. My flying bridge has some rot as well. Project for the fall as well as re coring the cockpit with new hatches.

 

[Mrwesson]

You need to consider additional factors other than flow rate for your circulation pump. The flow rate and head pressure requirements for the circulation pump are really quite low but the pump needs to be continuous duty as it may run for days on end without break. You will also want a quiet pump. You want to have a AC voltage powered pump because that is what you need to power the air conditioner anyway and running a DC voltage pump continuously will require constant charging of the batteries. When you consider these factors it helps justify the ~$230 cost for a March pump. The magnetic drive these pumps have allow for a long service life because they don't have a shaft to seal and they protect the pump from burning up the motor if (when) you get a blockage. The guy on thehullforum used a fish tank pump which would have most of the features you need but keep in mind that these pumps are not self priming (neither are the March) and therefore need to be located below the waterline. Any plumbing below the waterline connected to the sea presents a flooding opportunity if the case breaks and a fish tank pump is not engineered with this in mind. A fish tank pump's motor isn't ignition protected either but less of an issue for a diesel boat but something to keep in mind and could pop up on a survey.

It is smart to keep an open mind for alternative ways to accomplish things but remember to carefully consider why the conventional products are used. Before you buy a used unit, try calling around a bit and see if a scratch & dent or open box kind of unit is available. An installer may have a decent used unit that most boaters would not pay to have installed but would have value to a diy boater like yourself.

Thanks so much for the info on the pumps. That's why i'm here.. To learn.

After talking to some guys at the marina it seems like a trade off. A couple guys worry about the boat sinking due to thru hulls for their AC and say the grass isn't always greener.

The rooftop AC is going to stay either way so i'm just using it for now. The portable unit in the Berth has to go. I'm considering simple window unit with an adapter in the front bow hatch "for now". It would clear up some space.

Are you sure its 200hp? Mine is 165hp. Same year as yours. I didnt think the 200 hp came out until 81-82. Top speed is 12 knots WOT. Cruises at 7-8 burning about 1.5 gph . WOT is about 4+. My flying bridge has some rot as well. Project for the fall as well as re coring the cockpit with new hatches.

You know what i'm not sure. I checked out the engine but didn't write down the serial/model number. I'll check it out this weekend. I honestly would prefer the 165 because finding info on the 200 is much more difficult(i'm in no hurry).

Definitely doesn't seem to use much if any gas. I have been on 4 outings, running the genset alot and the fuel gauge has barely moved. Seems like 220 gallons would last me the year.

I have rot on the flybridge and on the back decking. The back decking will be a much easier job so I plan to tackle that "soon".

The flybridge needs support from the bottom to be sorted out correctly and I will probably wait until winter for that.

In my area a fully kitted out restored boat goes for around 45k.
Found some boats with solid decks but needed some engine service(and little to no electronics).

I'm not afraid of fiberglass work and @ 25k felt like I did good for a boat with radar, autopilot, new plotter,etc. The electronics are expensive but fiberglass is cheap(fiberglass work done by a pro/another story).

I got a quote for $3,000-6,000 to fix the flybridge/rear deck and i'd seriously consider paying 3-4 grand but 6.. I dunno.

 

[Mrwesson]

Another weekend on the boat.

Very little done except great times!

Had to run the Genny alot because I moved slips = no shore power.

Had a run in with the bay mud. Got stuck, lots of rocking, reverse "dredge", forward plow, about 10' at a time but I made it the 100yds we managed onto the mud flat.

Pictures!

 

[Jeff F]

Definitely doesn't seem to use much if any gas. I have been on 4 outings, running the genset alot and the fuel gauge has barely moved. Seems like 220 gallons would last me the year.

I wouldn't put too much faith in the guage until you get to know the boat. I have a sister ship and on mine the tank is empty when the guage reads 1/8 of a tank.

 

[Mrwesson]

I wouldn't put too much faith in the guage until you get to know the boat. I have a sister ship and on mine the tank is empty when the guage reads 1/8 of a tank.

I'll tap on the fuel cells later today. I'm inclined to believe it to a certain degree(moves in rough seas/previous owner's last fill up,etc).

 

[newbernbuck]

Mainship and speed

I have a 34 with the 200hp perkins as well. 8-9 kts in calm conditions seems to be the best cruising speed for us around 1600-1800 rpm. bumping down to 1400-1600 rpm i'm sure would save fuel on longer trip and maybe 1kt slower.
One thing to consider is your tachometer accurate? Mine was nearly 300 rpm off when I purchased the boat. They make lazer digital tachs testers now very reasonable around $20. There are adjuster screws on the back of your tachometers.
I think I did one time get mine up to 15kts for a few seconds WOT with new bottom. As far as getting one of these to actually plane, doubtful for any amount of time in my opinion.

 

[Mrwesson]

Are you sure its 200hp? Mine is 165hp. Same year as yours. I didnt think the 200 hp came out until 81-82. Top speed is 12 knots WOT. Cruises at 7-8 burning about 1.5 gph . WOT is about 4+. My flying bridge has some rot as well. Project for the fall as well as re coring the cockpit with new hatches.

It is in fact a 160hp not a 200hp.

Doesn't bother me one but i'm actually relieved to know its a bit down on power and matching it's expected performance.

Does yours put out any smoke at all @ 1500rpm-2000?

 

[Mrwesson]

Back to the towing question.

Would it be easy to tow my Henry-O 16'er. It is built very similar to a whaler and weighs about 1500lbs(probably less)?

If so what type of line would I need at minimum to try it out?

 

[sdowney717]

Regarding a water pump for an AC, I first used an Attwood 800 gph bait well pump. But it only lasts a couple years in salt water due to there is a metal shaft and seal that fails letting water into the motor. I ran it using a relay tied to the on part of the AC so that the relay's ac coil switched on the DC circuit. I have been wondering if a Rule bait well pump is better quality on the motor shaft...

The typical expensive March pump etc...I dont want to buy.

So I have this old dishwasher drain pump. It has a magnetically coupled impeller, sealed ceramic bearing, a thermal breaker on its coil and is super quiet and pumps out 5 gallons in about 30 seconds.
It has no cooling fan, don't know if it needs one. So I am using a PC, DC powered small fan to blow air on it. I will mount it using a piece of 2x4 and ziptie the fan on.

I coated the pump with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane so it won't rust. I plan to install it today. This is a good quality designed pump from a mid 90's Frigidaire. The AC circuit for the AC is GFCI-AFCI breaker for safety reasons.
Pump inlet is a genuine 3/4 hose. The outlet is bigger, so I screwed on a Lasko 3/4 female fitting. I first off formed some threads using a metal 3/4 pipe coupler screwed on by force and slightly heated it. The Lasko hose fitting became a perfect fit. Or I suppose some glue would work.

Pics and video of how nicely it pumps are here.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cERGNkg2UFY1RlVjRzZ0dkpEMnllR1Z2dTY0WHBn