Recent content by bglad

Read my answer again:) If you have AC and DC aboard it would be wise to have an isolator...

If you have DC and AC aboard it is best to have the DC negative and AC green ground connected. If you don't, operate in freshwater, and stay in marinas using shore power you create an electric shock hazard in the water around your boat. If AC current finds its way on the DC side and has no path...

Test your boat first! I think a poor connection on your shore cord defeated the galvanic isolator and allowed DC current to come through. Before you change anything test your galvanic isolator and hull potential. You mentioned you have a silver chloride half-cell. It is easy to use, and the GI...

I don't think adding a valve is the worst thing you can do to these as long as the original is still serviceable, and the metal is good. Gives you a way to operate the fitting without dealing with seepage from the rubber plug valve and still have the original to block off the hole when necessary.

More from Groco Good info. from Groco

Groco thru-hull adapter If/when replacement time comes use an adapter so the valve can be replaced without replacing the thru-hull.

Groco SV valves Groco literature for those interested

See attached pdf

Don't know of a rule against adding fittings after a properly installed operable seacock. However, it might run afoul of the standard if the "assembly" cannot pass this test: 27.6.1 A seacock shall be securely mounted so that the assembly will withstand a 500 pound (227 Kg) static force applied...

I suggest a spray shield over the rotating collar. Even when they don't leak, they seem to put out a little corrosive mist. Spray shield keeps it from drifting around onto metal and wood around them. Not unusual to find them with a 360 degree ring a fair distance away...

Lambs has competent folks who can straighten that out for you. Just worked with them on an aluminum motor yacht that was leaking AC current above 30ma level. They straightened it out in short order.

Thirty-year-old Schraeder valve on the reservoir may be bad. Might check it for leakage. A cap with an O-ring on it could help too. I think keeping the oil level in the middle of the reservoir would be helpful too. Greater volume of air would give you more time between recharging. Best plan is...

Assuming you have 240/50 service check how the loads are distributed between the two phases. If one side is loaded beyond 50-amps and the other has extra capacity see if it makes sense to rebalance your loads. This means moving 120-volt circuits from one buss to the other.

Talk to Mike Webster here: https://hansenyachtsales.com/ They were dealers and he brokers quite a few every year.

I put my dial indicator on the top of the strut with the stem on the propeller shaft, then push the shaft up. In your case it sounds like .045 is the clearance. I agree with what Ski said. If it is already out of the water change it. If not, catch it next bottom job unless it is causing some...