I thought the blades travel 180 degrees. That would lead me to believe there is a physical stop at the end of the travel.
Are you certain they rotate 360?
It’s not surprising to see the voltage do that, especially with internal regulators. They are pretty crude as you can see by the graphical voltage readout. I’m wondering why one has such higher volt output though. Could be many reasons, but crappy regulator comes to mind first.
It makes perfect sense that the clunk doesn’t happen when going fwd-neut-fwd, or rev-neut-rev. The blades have already shifted to their stops. When you change direction they need to rotate to the new position and when they hit the stops it clunks. The higher the idle speed the louder the clunk...
My insurance company will not accept them. So it’s not necessarily a red herring. This is a big, well known marine insurer. I think they may change their policy in the future, but for now you’re taking chances if you ignore and install.
Both fittings could be made at the same factory in china. Heatso has theirs made on day shift under license. The others are made on off shift hours and sold through Chinese distributors. Same part, but the off shift ones have less quality control.
This is the intellectual property problem with...
That’s a ridiculous price for that fitting. I couldn’t buy the materials to make it for double that. Then add the labor and gaskets.
Even if I automated the welding I’d still have to charge more than $100 for it.
Most 2k finishes look complicated at first, but they aren’t that bad in practice. Awlcraft can be brushed or rolled but it’s much better spraying. It’s too thin for brushing effectively and needs more coats. Can be done though if needed.
Alexseal is probably a better choice for brush/roll...
Here’s the way I use those.
I make my halyard in a loop through the little block. Then just use the cleat as normal but with the line doubled.
I always used the hole in the cleat for a quick attachment point for storing sail halyards by their shackles.