Recent content by STB

Also, yes, it means waiting fornitntonsort of gel and get tacky. You can sort of see the change in the way it looks. If you don't mind leaving a bit of a print to sand/polish later, you can also touch it with a finger or toothpick

Can you post a picture of your polisher?

I am wasteful and just throw away the tips for the cheap sprayer. The folks with the good, real sprayguns obviously clean and reuse them. I've heard them complain that the waxed gelcoat gunks them up more. Like I said, those bits aren't first hand.

Let me also comment on one more thing, but from scuttlebutt, not personal knowledge. I've never user an expensive gun to spray gelcoat -- just those cheap ones. But, those who have used expensive sprayers have told me that waxed gelcoat isn't their friend because if they don't clean their...

I should also add that gelcoat does set up in a few minutes or so. If you are spraying pva over thinned, sprayed gelcoat you need to be really careful to make sure the gelcoat has set first. If not, you'll have a muddy mess. Looking at reviews, it is pretty clear some people miss that step...

Great questions! Recall that when I, personally, spray a thin finish coat of gelcoat I used waxed gelcoat so I don't need to use PVA or sheets or anything else over the finish. I like it to stay just as I applied it. The wax mixed in prevents the off gasing of the catalyst (or "exposure to...

I treat it like rattle can spray paint. I do immediate light overlapping passes, but I sort of consider than one coat. But, light is the key. If you get it too thick, it'll run. That isn't terrible. You can just clean it, sand the runs, light sand, and overcoat if needed. Clean well to get the...

For what it is, that's as good a kit as any for doing it without a sprayer -- which is a perfectly viable option. I suspect you'd want more than the 1oz and also want reducer if you were to spray. They do sell a 4oz version. The thing that I dont like about that kit -- and I'm sure is the...

Hi Paulga, I guess I can add that I've always made the most use of white, black, red, and yellow.

Looking at Total Boat's product, their instructions read, "Thin TotalBoat Gelcoat with styrene, only as needed (up to 15%, adding more can affect the color of the cured gelcoat)." https://www.totalboat.com/products/gelcoat?variant=43199567233248#tab-9

Hey Paulga, They have kits that have a bunch of pigments. I've always used one of those. Total Boat or others may have more options w.r.t. size, possibly even in premixed colors that will get you close.

Hey Steve, Out of the can, the viscosity is appropriate for application by brush or roller. It doesn't really flow out ridges to flat. And, it won't spray well, if at all. It mostly splatters. Out of the can is fine, even beneficial, for a roller or brush because the goal is to over apply and...

These things all, I think, come down to expectations. That won't get you to a perfect repair. But, if it gets you to a repair you are happy with, then it'll make you happy. You might want to try the white vs the buff white. Buff white may be darker than it sounds. The stuff is, I think...

I, myself, don't really wet sand until the very end, but I may wash off the sand paper of it starts to get clogged. Start with a higher grit than you'll think you'll want and light pressure then move to coarser paper, keeping light pressure, until you are happy with the speed you are removing...

Don't forget: If filling with an epoxy-based filler, once it is fully cured, you need to wash the amine blush off the outside with soap and water before sanding. Similarly, don't forget to opt for a gelcoat with wax, or to have some way of sealing it so it can cure without exposure to air.