Ford Lehman 120 fuel leak

[Tazling]

My ancient 120 is leaking diesel and I'm trying to figure out where it's really coming from... seems like low down on the stbd side (of course, where all the fuel lines are). I've been tying dry rags around various connectors and then watching to see how wet they get, and I now suspect that the source of the leak is a small squat cylindrical thing that I think is the body of the manual lift pump (used for priming) -- it has a little lever on the bottom that looks and feels like a manual priming pump lever.

The leak appears to be from the top of this assembly, where a vertical rigid fuel line enters. I've been peering at it with a bright flashlight and still can't figure out what kind of fitting it is or how to tighten it... a word of advice would be helpful as I am not a mechanic and am always afraid of breaking something on this antique... and then finding out that no replacement part is available

The leak is not catastrophic -- I'm thinking maybe half a litre in maybe 40 hours of motoring -- but it is bad enough that I'm going through engine diapers and there's some puddling in the stainless drip pan under the engine. So I'd like to get it fixed asap because the cleanup is a disgusting job

 

[psneeld]

I used flare nut wrenches to remove/tighten those fittings.

One leak I had from that area was actually a crack in the fuel line right at the top of the fitting. Probably because one of the tubing clamps wasn't doing a good enough job at reducing vibration of the lines.

Be aware that while a drip is not a big problem, if it turns into a mist spray at any point, it is a much greater risk of fire/explosion. At that point, wrap a piece of diaper around it and zip tie it so it stays a drip and not aerosol.

 

[boomerang]

I found our Lehman (previously owned by psneeld above) progressively getting harder and harder to start, having to use the priming lever for every cold start. I noticed, when pumping the lever, bubbles would appear under the adapter fitting on the fuel pump that secures the fuel line nut mentioned. I ordered the special socket (pictured) and compression washer kit from overseas (not too expensive ...I think around $125 at the time...and replaced the offending crush washers. It cured the leak and the engine starts right up ,even without using the cold start button & after sitting for months.
It's a good chance you might have the same issue.

 

[boomerang]

...I'll be filing a warranty claim with you soon, Neeld.

 

[psneeld]

...I'll be filing a warranty claim with you soon, Neeld.

Catch me if you can....

For the OP.....There is a "sticky" thread at the top of the "power systems section" that describes sealing up those injector leaks....

 

[BeeJay]

My ancient 120 is leaking diesel and I'm trying to figure out where it's really coming from... seems like low down on the stbd side (of course, where all the fuel lines are). I've been tying dry rags around various connectors and then watching to see how wet they get, and I now suspect that the source of the leak is a small squat cylindrical thing that I think is the body of the manual lift pump (used for priming) -- it has a little lever on the bottom that looks and feels like a manual priming pump lever.



The leak appears to be from the top of this assembly, where a vertical rigid fuel line enters. I've been peering at it with a bright flashlight and still can't figure out what kind of fitting it is or how to tighten it... a word of advice would be helpful as I am not a mechanic and am always afraid of breaking something on this antique... and then finding out that no replacement part is available



The leak is not catastrophic -- I'm thinking maybe half a litre in maybe 40 hours of motoring -- but it is bad enough that I'm going through engine diapers and there's some puddling in the stainless drip pan under the engine. So I'd like to get it fixed asap because the cleanup is a disgusting job

I think you may be describing the lift pump. Are you able to post a picture ?.

 

[psneeld]

Good catch BeeJay, sounds like the lift pump except for the "vertical metal tube" part that threw me back to injection pump.

 

[Tazling]

Sorry guys, been desperately working on other bits of the boat for the last couple of weeks -- fixing leaks, fixing electricals -- and just getting back to the engine compartment as of yesterday.

Yes, it's the manual lift pump. There's a little lever on the bottom of the assembly, and the "can" (body of pump) is about the size of the smallest can of Ortega green chiles (if you know the kind).

So before a few days of travel, I had tied a series of clean rags around the whole fuel line from the top of the engine on down, to find out whether the fuel was dribbling out from above, or originating at the lift pump. I found that it was originating where I thought, at the top of the lift pump.

A metal (hard) fuel line goes in there from above, vertically, through a smallish nut. I thought, fine, the nut must be loose. But it is not loose. It is already tightened to the point where I fear to put any more force on it lest I shear something off altogether.

Presumably there is a washer that goes under that nut? or is it a flare? I'm reluctant to take it apart until I know what I'm getting into, since I hope to use the boat this week.

Is there a factory rebuild kit for the lift pump or is it too ancient? I will post a picture soon to aid in identifying it. Probably quite antique because the engine I think is original (1969) -- still runs like a champ.

In the short term I have mummified the lift pump in clean rags to absorb further oozing, and am not planning to travel far (just local puttering about). The leak rate is pretty slow and only seems to happen when running (pressurised?).

Maybe I can get an entire replacement manual lift pump? I'd be the diaphragm must be pretty much shot if the washers or o rings are going.

 

[Bmarler]

If the hard pipe at the top of the pump is going to the injection pump it makes sense that it only leaks under pressure. Eventually it will leak all the time if the pump is below the fuel level in the tanks. I’d be shutting the tank valves when not running the engine in case of failure.
Many times, that’s a flare fitting, although it could be something else. (Crush washer, o ring, etc…)
Flare fittings that have been vibrating continuously may develop hairline cracks that can be very difficult to see. Over tightening these can make things worse as you’re opening the crack by putting more force on the flare. I suspect you need a new hard pipe at that location.

 

[kchace]

If the hard pipe at the top of the pump is going to the injection pump it makes sense that it only leaks under pressure. Eventually it will leak all the time if the pump is below the fuel level in the tanks. I’d be shutting the tank valves when not running the engine in case of failure.
Many times, that’s a flare fitting, although it could be something else. (Crush washer, o ring, etc…)
Flare fittings that have been vibrating continuously may develop hairline cracks that can be very difficult to see. Over tightening these can make things worse as you’re opening the crack by putting more force on the flare. I suspect you need a new hard pipe at that location.

 

[Chuck34]

Presumably there is a washer that goes under that nut? or is it a flare? I'm reluctant to take it apart until I know what I'm getting into, since I hope to use the boat this week.

Is there a factory rebuild kit for the lift pump or is it too ancient? I will post a picture soon to aid in identifying it. Probably quite antique because the engine I think is original (1969) -- still runs like a champ.

Maybe I can get an entire replacement manual lift pump? I'd be the diaphragm must be pretty much shot if the washers or o rings are going.

Call Brian at American Diesel…he will hook you up with whatever parts you need

 

[DieselTrawlerGuy]

I concur with Chuck34, call Brian at American Diesel.

Mon-Fri 09:00:AM-5:00M EST

American Diesel Corp
attn: Brian Smith
101 American Drive
P.O. Box 1838 (Rt. #3 North)
Kilmarnock, Virginia 22482
(804) 435-3107-Office
(804) 435-6420-Fax
lehmandiesel@gmail.com

You might ask him about a rebuild kit vs a new pump, possibly buy both, put on the new one, rebuild the old one, seal it up in a seal-a-meal bag and keep it as a spare?

 

[Bmarler]

While I’m an advocate of having a spare pump, I don’t think the pump is at fault. If it’s leaking at the fitting it’s either the pipe is bad, or a sealing device is bad. (Washer, o ring, farrell…)

 

[Eli27]

While I’m an advocate of having a spare pump, I don’t think the pump is at fault. If it’s leaking at the fitting it’s either the pipe is bad, or a sealing device is bad. (Washer, o ring, farrell…)

Won't be getting a lift pump any time soon. Literally just got off the phone with Brian@AD and the pumps are on back order.

Just bought an 79 Albin with leYman 120. Bought pretty much everything for it as I don't know the history and looks original. Hoses, coolers, updated coolant tank, both water pumps to name a few.

I wanted an extra lift pump for back up but not in stock. Brian said he hasn't been able to restock for 6 months now.

If anyone has a brand new one and willing to sell it, let me know.

 

[sunchaser]

Eli
Try TAD for the lift pump, they may have what you need. Absent that, Tractor Supply.

 

[catalinajack]

Won't be getting a lift pump any time soon. Literally just got off the phone with Brian@AD and the pumps are on back order.



Just bought an 79 Albin with leYman 120. Bought pretty much everything for it as I don't know the history and looks original. Hoses, coolers, updated coolant tank, both water pumps to name a few.



I wanted an extra lift pump for back up but not in stock. Brian said he hasn't been able to restock for 6 months now.



If anyone has a brand new one and willing to sell it, let me know.

Ditch the mechanical fuel pump and install an electric pump. A Walbro (FRB-13) is rated for 18,000 hours of continual use. Plus, no more maddening lever pump for priming.

 

[SIBERNUT]

Don't know if it applies in your case, but I have had luck getting parts from a New Holland tractor dealer. But I second the electric pump.

 

[BeeJay]

I'm really surprised that you cant buy this item new in the US. Available here (NZ) from tractor supply and diesel engine companies. I have previously posted a listing of a number of part numbers from different suppliers for the lift pump. I can look it out and re-post it if you think it will be helpful.

 

[BeeJay]

Lift pump part numbers for Ford

Hi,

Enter any of these part numbers into your search engine and I'm sure you will find a supplier close to you.

 

[BruceK]

I'm really surprised that you cant buy this item new in the US. Available here (NZ) from tractor supply and diesel engine companies. I have previously posted a listing of a number of part numbers from different suppliers for the lift pump. I can look it out and re-post it if you think it will be helpful.

Indeed. That Ford engine was used in numerous applications, incl tractors. If it`s not part of the Lehman marinization it`s a Ford part likely to be available somewhere from Ford suppliers, a tractor supplier is the most likely.

 

[SIBERNUT]

If you have a list of any kind I'd be appreciative !

 

[Tazling]

Call Brian at American Diesel…he will hook you up with whatever parts you need

Brian sez: all Ford engines have an FP6038718 fuel lift pump to supply a head of pressure to the fuel injection pump.

That being said, the rebuild kits for the FP6038718 were discontinued years back and we currently are awaiting production of the complete FP6038718 lift pumps (production problems and delays).

The correct outlet fitting for the lift pump is 5/16" SAE (recessed) flare, thus you may need our 844-0278A fitting ($10.00) to connect a 5/16" USCG-approved fuel hose to the secondary filter assembly (see attached).

So it looks like I can get their adapter doohickey to replace that old metal fuel line with a flexible fuel hose, and that might just solve the problem if it is a cracked line.

 

[Tator]

By chance does the attachment show the type of fitting used on the input side of the pump? I've been meaning to call Brian and ask this question for the new owner of Oz. For 16 years I've been fighting a small air leak that occurs only on the stbd engine.

Tator

 

[BeeJay]

The part numbers (9) are on my attachment on post number 19. can you open it ok ?

 

[BeeJay]

Part numbers