Check Clamps and Hoses

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Nice article on maintenance:

https://boattest.com/article/check-...xXI&utm_content=170699842&utm_source=hs_email

 

[Moonfish]

I have been doing the same at least twice a year, slightly tightening clamps in the inspection process. But must admit I've not come across T-clamps before. Now I want them...

 

[SteveK]

Nice article on maintenance:

https://boattest.com/article/check-...xXI&utm_content=170699842&utm_source=hs_email

Interesting, the first picture shows a hose larger than the barb fitting it is put on. But it has two clamps, good to go.

 

[Comodave]

I use ABA or AWAB clamps. They are more expensive but worth it. Their T clamps are impressive. All 316 and no welds to rust.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I've been going through my hoses after I found one of the clamps had loosened up on the raw water system. Either that or the recent motor rebuild/install by the prior owner hadn't ever tightened the clamp. Fortunately, there were two clamps.

An article that I was reading suggested a test for rubber hoses of unknown vintage. Squeeze the hose along it's length. Any soft(er) spots indicates that it's time to replace.

I've been writing dates with a blue paint pen on the hoses that I've replaced. Probably won't be me that replaces them when the time is up.

 

[sailormike]

i love t bolt clamps expensive but so worth in in many cases

 

[Simi 60]

i love t bolt clamps expensive but so worth in in many cases

I have been replacing the considerably expensive Tridon Tbolt clamps with an inexpensive eBay version


Look at the size of the stupidly large s/s bolt allowing masses of crank yet the weak point is 3 tiny spot welds on the band

The eBay version has a smaller cad plated bolt, but the bolt has never been the issue and the s/s bands have 4 spotwelds.

So far they have been lasting twice as long and about 4:1 price difference.

If I had a TIG onboard I would edge weld the tridon clamps and have a clamp that would probably last a lifetime.

 

[dhays]

T-bolt clamps are great. The only caution is that they are so strong that if you aren't careful to can crush some pipe with them.

 

[C lectric]

I've used T bolt clamps. Some are still doing well on my stuffing box. I have also used them at work.

There are 3 catches with them though and one has to do with the spot welds which if are seawater wetted may still rust MAYBE losing the weld. Welding changes the SS to a lower grade sometimes.

THe 2nd catch is they must be carefully chosen for the application. They have a very limited adjustment range. If they are to short you cannot thread two of them together.
If they are to long you will run out of bolt thread before they tighten. They must be very closely matched to the hose.

The 3rd has already been mentioned, overtorque.

I have used the 316 All SS Tridons for years and have never had one fail that did not give warning. Of course I had to pay attention.

I carry a good selection of the Tridons and can and have monkeyed a longer one when needed, to be changed for a proper length when available.

In my area the Awabs seem to be scarcer than hens teeth or I might go that route. I would not though toss all my Tridons but rather change over as I ran out of the Tridons.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

The eBay version has a smaller cad plated bolt, but the bolt has never been the issue and the s/s bands have 4 spotwelds.

Didn't want to mention that I've also gone with the plated bolts rather than stainless steel bolts. They are quite a bit cheaper than all SS. The SS version will probably last longer, assuming that it is the bolt that fails first, which I doubt. Same with spot welds vs. SS tangs. One will last 50 years, the other 65 years. My motor won't last that long so I'm not sure pure stainless has any advantage. Well, pure stainless might get more at the recycling center in the year 2075, assuming that humans are still here.

 

[socalrider]

I've used T bolt clamps. Some are still doing well on my stuffing box. I have also used them at work.

There are 3 catches with them though and one has to do with the spot welds which if are seawater wetted may still rust MAYBE losing the weld. Welding changes the SS to a lower grade sometimes.

THe 2nd catch is they must be carefully chosen for the application. They have a very limited adjustment range. If they are to short you cannot thread two of them together.
If they are to long you will run out of bolt thread before they tighten. They must be very closely matched to the hose.

The 3rd has already been mentioned, overtorque.

The 4th catch is that the exposed bolt ends are absolute murder on loose clothing when climbing over and around a cramped engine room. I caught my forehead on one once. Ouch! I use them for exhaust and fuel fill lines (exhaust is what always gets me - I should probably rotate them to try and protect myself better).

 

[Bmarler]

if you're worried about the stainless rusting you can passivate the weld. that'll heal the surface and stop it from rusting. it's the surface overheating while exposed to oxygen that causes stainless to rust. the metal inside is still (mostly)unchanged except for the grain structure in the heat affected zone.
on clamps that are prone to catching me with exposed fasteners and loose band ends i've switched to the low profile single use ones. it takes a tool to set them and you only use them once, but for something that isn't going to be taken apart regularly they're great.
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Stainless-Steel-Hose-Clamp-3LZ66
the grainger one is just an example, they're widely available.

 

[murofrelwart]

The 4th catch is that the exposed bolt ends are absolute murder on loose clothing when climbing over and around a cramped engine room. I caught my forehead on one once. Ouch! I use them for exhaust and fuel fill lines (exhaust is what always gets me - I should probably rotate them to try and protect myself better).

To avoid catching the exposed bolt or ends of band clamps I've found these to be worthwhile and easy to add.

https://www.clamp-aid.com/

 

[Comodave]

if you're worried about the stainless rusting you can passivate the weld. that'll heal the surface and stop it from rusting. it's the surface overheating while exposed to oxygen that causes stainless to rust. the metal inside is still (mostly)unchanged except for the grain structure in the heat affected zone.
on clamps that are prone to catching me with exposed fasteners and loose band ends i've switched to the low profile single use ones. it takes a tool to set them and you only use them once, but for something that isn't going to be taken apart regularly they're great.
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Stainless-Steel-Hose-Clamp-3LZ66
the grainger one is just an example, they're widely available.

Or just go with AWAB/ABA T bolt clamps since they don’t have welds…

 

[Bmarler]

Or just go with AWAB/ABA T bolt clamps since they don’t have welds…

the awab/awa clamps are great, no doubt about it. i only use the low profile stuff on connections that i rarely take apart, or if the fastener always seems to catch me. personally, i don't mind the welded clamps either, they last a very long time.

 

[Deano]

Found out the hard way that the output side of my vacuflush pump only had one loose clamp on it.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

Interesting, the first picture shows a hose larger than the barb fitting it is put on. But it has two clamps, good to go.

And the photo is mine, and they used it without my permission...thank you, I'll be sending them a note right now. It's a reprint from Southern Boating, they used it without my permission as well https://southernboating.com/maintenance/maintenance-child/check-your-clamps/

Adding insult to injury, the caption is incorrect.

Lifted from this article https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/hose-clamps-part-ii-installation-and-use/ It includes the correct caption.