Sea cock help needed

[Capt Jack]

Macerator sea cock is seized so during haul out figured I would take it apart and see if I can free it up. Started by taking the nut off the end and then cover (pic #1) but cannot figure out how to get any further. Anyone recognize this sea cock and know how to get it apart? I suspect it is original as the one above it for the sink is still very functional and looks to be the same design just a bit larger.

Thanks in advance

John

 

[rgano]

Looks like a rubber plug valve. I have watch folks here complain about not being able to find the rubber plug part. Thread that nut back on there a few turns, get a chunk of wood to lay up against it, and whack the wood with a hammer to knock the plug out on the handle side. Then plan of getting a new secock anyway because if you did not before, you may now have a leaking rubber plug valve. You will learn what a mushroom removal tool is and how it can take a couple of people (one inside and one out) to remove and replace seacocks. BTW, the valve is designed to be tightened up by cranking down on the nut to compress the rubber a bit. Best to loosen the nut before trying to cycle the valve. I had them and hated them and replaced with bronze valves with stainless steel ball riding on a plastic seal.

 

[Comodave]

I had ones similar to that in a previous boat. Those runner bungs were also no longer available. I had a seacock that I could not get to unscrew so I took a grinder and ground off the through hull. Worked well. When you replace it think about going with the non perforated hose clamps. I like AWAB or ABA clamps. They are all 316S/S and anr non perforated with rolled edges so as not to cut the hose.

 

[Capt Jack]

Thanks Rich. I will give it a try

John

 

[rgano]

Thanks Rich. I will give it a try

John

And Dave has the next step for you when you get stuck for parts.

 

[Capt Jack]

Thanks Dave.

 

[Comodave]

We had a 1978 Trojan F32 that had the original plastic thru hulls above the waterline. I was concerned about the plastic so I went to replace them. I took a small sledge on the inside because I was sure they would shatter at the first impact. I smacked them repeatedly and they didn’t break. Some PO had put some kind of glue on the threads so the nuts wouldn’t back off. I used the grinder to cut the mushroom head off the outside, worked great but don’t cut too deeply.

 

[OldDan1943]

My AT had "plastic" sea cocks below the water line including engine, gen, in and out plus all the extra aux stuff. First yard visit, had them changed to up-to-date bronze body ball valves (stainless ball) with grease fittings. I sleep better.
People speak well of the 'plastic' hull valves but,.....

 

[Comodave]

Yea, but...

 

[SoWhat]

Remove the hose
Remove the tailpiece
Use LED light to inspect valve interior
Clean as required
Soak with light penetrating oil
tap on handle lightly with wooden mallet
or as mentioned, put nut back on threads
tap lightly but frequently with mallet
Be patient.

 

[jgwinks]

I have similar looking seacocks in the boat I just bought, they also will not close. They are not rubber though. With the hoses off I can see inside, and they are bronze in and out. I believe they are tapered, and a sharp rap with a mallet on the nut side (with the nuts backed off) should free them up. Unfortunately mine are up against the stringers and I can't get a hammer in there. I'll have to remove them, and it makes more sense to get new ones to install. On a previous boat I had the white plastic fittings and once one broke off in my hand. That got a little exciting. The black ones are glass reinforced nylon "Marelon" and are almost as strong as bronze. The fact that they don't corrode makes them better in the long run in some people's opinion.

 

[OldDan1943]

The black ones are glass reinforced nylon "Marelon" and are almost as strong as bronze. The fact that they don't corrode makes them better in the long run in some people's opinion.

and bonding is not required.

 

[Capt Jack]

Thanks to all. I will be back at the boat this weekend and will begin the process of either freeing the valve or removing for replacement.

John

 

[rgano]

I have similar looking seacocks in the boat I just bought, they also will not close. They are not rubber though. With the hoses off I can see inside, and they are bronze in and out. I believe they are tapered, and a sharp rap with a mallet on the nut side (with the nuts backed off) should free them up. Unfortunately mine are up against the stringers and I can't get a hammer in there. I'll have to remove them, and it makes more sense to get new ones to install. On a previous boat I had the white plastic fittings and once one broke off in my hand. That got a little exciting. The black ones are glass reinforced nylon "Marelon" and are almost as strong as bronze. The fact that they don't corrode makes them better in the long run in some people's opinion.

I had those bronze plug valves on my wooden Grand Banks. They are worth some money if you replace them. I maintained them by pulling the plug out and CAREFULLY cleaning then with very fine wet and dry sandpaper. Did the same for the mating surface inside the valve body. Then apply a coat of waterproof grease and reassemble. Lover their mother, last a LOOONG time.

 

[Xsbank]

If you have ever bought a part for a Porsche, you will instantly recognize the feeling you get when you have to buy a replacement through-hull. Exquisite.

 

[Datenight]

Capt. Jack,

I had those on the Green boat. The engine one was difficult to operate and the generator almost impossible until it froze.

So What's method worked for me. Once free I added some valve grinding compound and worked the seacock until it moved freely. After that I greased yearly. They operated easily for the next ten years I had the boat.

Rob

 

[koliver]

If you have ever bought a part for a Porsche, you will instantly recognize the feeling you get when you have to buy a replacement through-hull. Exquisite.

Never owned a Porsche.
My BIL just bought one, as a retirement bucket list item. Now 6 months in, he is whining about the cost of upkeep. His isn't even old yet!
Good he isn't a boater. The whining would be constant.

 

[JohnS]

Seacock mushrooms

I recently learned a trick for removing seacock mushrooms bedded in 5200.
Get a hardwood bung of appropriate size, drive it into the mushroom from the outside, cut it off flush and use a drill-mounted hole saw to cut out the old one. (It helped that we were going up one size)
JohnS, Cheoy Lee 40 LRC, La Vita Dolce

 

[jgwinks]

Capt. Jack,

I had those on the Green boat. The engine one was difficult to operate and the generator almost impossible until it froze.

So What's method worked for me. Once free I added some valve grinding compound and worked the seacock until it moved freely. After that I greased yearly. They operated easily for the next ten years I had the boat.

Rob

I'll try that if I can get mine apart.

 

[HopCar]

The only rubber plug seacock I’ve ever seen were made by Groco. That’s not a Groco. I’ll be interested to know if it is a rubber plug or a tapered bronze plug.

 

[FF]

There is coarse and fine valve grinding compound.

AS the taper on a good sea cock is very shallow the fine will be quick enough.

If installing a new unit , be sure it is thru bolted , not just hanging on the thru hull threads.

 

[Bacchus]

This may help with details of How To
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
They also have a how to on backing plates if needed.

 

[Capt Jack]

I just have to say you all are amazing. In a matter of a few days I went from not having a clue on how to proceed to having many ideas. Thanks to all and I will tackle it again this weekend.

John

 

[HopCar]

I just have to say you all are amazing. In a matter of a few days I went from not having a clue on how to proceed to having many ideas. Thanks to all and I will tackle it again this weekend.

John

Be sure you let us know what happens.

 

[Keysdisease]

Looks like it may be a Wilcox Crittenden Sea Cock except for the handle, I don't believe they or parts are available, haven't seen one in a very long time.

The WC logo would be cast into the body

 

[FF]

What part & size needs to be replaced if it is a W/C unit?

W/C was in Middletown CT , until driven out , so many tag sales had parts from past employees, "adjusted compensation".

 

[Martin J]

I think you'll find it's a tapered type. Just requires patience. Also you may try a little diesel its a great penetrant just smelly.. Gentle taps every so often while trying to turn the handle.

 

[OldDan1943]

Looks like it may be a Wilcox Crittenden Sea Cock except for the handle, I don't believe they or parts are available, haven't seen one in a very long time.

The WC logo would be cast into the body

Are there lubrication points on the valve body?

 

[Capt Jack]

Are there lubrication points on the valve body?

Not that I can find only a plug on the back side

John

 

[HopCar]

Not that I can find only a plug on the back side

John

The plug on the back is a drain for winterizing, what ever that is. Some people replace the plug with a zerk fitting so they can pump in grease. This works well on a tapered plug seacock but I’d be afraid it would blow out the seals on a ball valve type seacock. I may be wrong about that as Groco is installing zerk fittings on some of their ball valves.