removing teak deck 1995 GB

Hi all,

I have a worn out teak deck on a 1995 GrandBanks 42 I'll be replacing with non skid. Would love to replace with teak but I haven't won the lottery recently so going with non skid.

I'm hiring out placing the new deck but am planning on removing the old deck myself. I'm curious as to what kind of substrate is under the teak planks and how strongly adhered they are after the screws have been removed. I've watched a lot of youtube vids and everyone seems to have different strategies on teak removal. Any advice will be well appreciated.

Thanks
Jon

Good luck! I think it will come down to pulling a board to figure that one out and then coming back here for advice on removing the backing material. What non-skid are you going with? That's the tricky one for me. I had the sand in my non-skid and loved the traction, but hated cleaning it, or kneeling down on it. I ended up going with Total Boat non-skid. Very easy to clean....but slippery when wet. Compromises!

JonMenig said:

I'm curious as to what kind of substrate is under the teak planks and how strongly adhered they are after the screws have been removed.

Click to expand...

On a fibreglass GB like yours it will be fibreglass under the teak. I have no personal experience removing teak decks but I have read that it can be a tremendous amount of work given the number of fasteners you need to remove and how tenacious the glue can be.

Are you certain you cannot save your current deck? The boat is not that old.

Does that year have fasteners, or would it be glued/bonded directly to the fiberglass? Hopefully the latter!

We removed our teak decks but our GB is a 1980. It was screwed and glued with brown 5200. Here are some pics.

Every time a teak deck is removed an angel gets its wings.

Just kidding, but good luck with your project, I am sure it will look great upon completion.

Here is a PowerPoint presentation form a member of the FaceBook "Grand banks Owners" group that shows how he removed his deck:


He recommends a "rotary hammer".

I tried a rotary hammer and found it difficult to control. Alot of enery expelled just trying to control it. I used the biggest wood chisel home depot had, I think it was 3" and a hammer. I sharpened it regularly. I had to put angled side down so it would not dig into fiberglass gelcoat.
thanks,
Bud

Thanks all! Got all the teak removed as well as the bedding material. Neither came up without a fight!
One thing I did learn was that there was enough adhesion from the bedding material that removing the screws had no affect on how difficult it was to removed the teak planks. I'm going to use this info when I restore the teak deck on the flybridge (which is in much better shape than the lower deck that was removed.)
Where the bungs have pulled up I'm just going to remove the screw, deepen the hole slightly and place new bung. No worries about the deck loosening.

JonMenig said:

Hi all,

I have a worn out teak deck on a 1995 GrandBanks 42 I'll be replacing with non skid. Would love to replace with teak but I haven't won the lottery recently so going with non skid.

I'm hiring out placing the new deck but am planning on removing the old deck myself. I'm curious as to what kind of substrate is under the teak planks and how strongly adhered they are after the screws have been removed. I've watched a lot of youtube vids and everyone seems to have different strategies on teak removal. Any advice will be well appreciated.

Thanks
Jon

Click to expand...

With the teak removed you will have a gazillion empty screw holes. Filling them all will be time consuming. When I removed old teak decks I laid down a couple of layers of 10 oz. mat to cover the holes and prevent leakage.

JonMenig said:

Hi all,

I have a worn out teak deck on a 1995 GrandBanks 42 I'll be replacing with non skid. Would love to replace with teak but I haven't won the lottery recently so going with non skid.

I'm hiring out placing the new deck but am planning on removing the old deck myself. I'm curious as to what kind of substrate is under the teak planks and how strongly adhered they are after the screws have been removed. I've watched a lot of youtube vids and everyone seems to have different strategies on teak removal. Any advice will be well appreciated.

Thanks
Jon

Click to expand...

Where are you located? I have a bunch of never used 3"x3/4 inch Burma teak in lengths around 10 to 20 ft, they have a 1/4 inch caulking groove cut in to one corner. I am in the PNW.
M

captmikem said:

Where are you located? I have a bunch of never used 3"x3/4 inch Burma teak in lengths around 10 to 20 ft, they have a 1/4 inch caulking groove cut in to one corner. I am in the PNW.
M

Click to expand...

I would be interested in looking at your teak, how much do you have?

I have a large bundle, let me go out and get a better idea how many pieces and I will get back to you.

Of course it will be fiberglass under the teak. But under that, before a further bottom layer of fiberglass forming the bottom of the sandwich, will be a core of something, be it teak offcuts, ply, or if you are fortunate, foam. You need to check the integrity of the core before replacing the teak with either more teak or 2 layers of glass. If using fresh teak, I would still recommend doing the bow section in painted fiberglass, as many builders do from new.

We typically use a pneumatic chisel when removing teak decks. On some occasions, we have hired an outside firm to blast the teak off with a high pressure water jet. On a GB 42, it would be done in a few hours. This is not a job for amateurs as it would be easy to sever your foot if not careful.

Pictures! We require Pictures!

JonMenig said:

Hi all,

I have a worn out teak deck on a 1995 GrandBanks 42 I'll be replacing with non skid. Would love to replace with teak but I haven't won the lottery recently so going with non skid.

I'm hiring out placing the new deck but am planning on removing the old deck myself. I'm curious as to what kind of substrate is under the teak planks and how strongly adhered they are after the screws have been removed. I've watched a lot of youtube vids and everyone seems to have different strategies on teak removal. Any advice will be well appreciated.

Thanks
Jon

Click to expand...

I just did this with my 1973 GB36. Once the bungs are removed and screws backed out the teak comes up quite easily. I think the polysulfide was more of a sealant than an adhesive. The deck is layered RFP/plywood/RFP. I tried ripping up the teak with a 3' pry bar but removing the bungs and screws turned out to be less arduous. I bought packs of plug cutters at Harbor Freight for about $1 a piece to remove the bungs. Some of the screws were flat bladed. I cut the handle off of a cheap screw driver and put it in the chuck of a cordless drill driver. I drilled a hole in a chunk of steel (wood should work also) to capture the screw driver blade and hold it in the screw head while I backed them out with the cordless driver. Again, tedious but not hard labor. Now the crazy part. I plan to have the RFP deck sand blasted to removed the sealant/adhesive. I will then cover it with Nydacore and 1708.

Wow! A lot of work, but the finished product looks just amazing!