engine oil change - Ford Lehman 135sp

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Be careful using the starting fluid as it can cause damage to the engine if not used correctly. Do not spray it into the engine but rather spray it on a rag and hold it close to the intake. I always think it is suspicious if I find starting fluid in the engine room, you shouldn’t need it if the engine is in good repair.
 
BruceK said:
Does the photo depict the "4 bottles of oil" referred to? If so, they are not oils. I suggest you read the labels, each seems to have a specific purpose.
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already read the directions on the back last night, but that does not cover the question how often the product should be used

e.g. fine prints from Engine Stor:

.. Long Term Metal Protection. Keep pistons, rings and cylinder walls corrosion free. Protects electrical connections in use or in storage.
Directions: clean motor, test run in fresh water, and make necessary repairs and adjustments. Top off fuel tanks and stabilize fuel with CRC Marine Fuel Stabilizer. Start engine, and with engine running, spray this product into each carburetor approximately 5 to 10 seconds. Turn off ignition and remove spark plugs and spray this product directly into cylinders. Turn the engine over one to two revolutions with starter rope. This will lubricate the pistons, rings and cylinder walls. Spray spark plugs and openings before inserting plugs securely.

But I didn't find "carburetor" or "starter rope", or "spark plug" in the owners manual. so I wonder how it is used on a ford lehman
 
Comodave said:
Be careful using the starting fluid as it can cause damage to the engine if not used correctly. Do not spray it into the engine but rather spray it on a rag and hold it close to the intake. I always think it is suspicious if I find starting fluid in the engine room, you shouldn’t need it if the engine is in good repair.
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i have run the engine several times, didn't have difficulty in starting.
 
CharlieO. said:
Some things could be for dingy motor maintenance.
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the boat didn't come with a dingy. I don't know if PO had a dingy. The boat has a davit arm but does not have a bracket on the sundeck roof for dingy mount.
 
Read the instructions on the containers, sorry for stating the obvious, but come on......
Anything that is NOT labeled or not in the original container should be thrown out legally. Marinas typically have areas for solvents and oils.
Brakeleen is a great solvent for dissolving oils and greases.

I do NOT add Marvel Mystery oil into the new oil. It thins the oil out against mfg'r specs.
 
does anyone have the same engine (ID plate shows 2725E)?

the oil dip stick has two small voids as the marks. Did this come from the factory? if not what tool can make such dents?

IMG20240812010125.jpg
 
If something is listed as using in carburetors and removing spark plugs it isn’t for a diesel engine.
 
Comodave said:
If something is listed as using in carburetors and removing spark plugs it isn’t for a diesel engine.
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it's probably used for winterization, as the name "engine stor" suggests. The purpose of that product is to "lubricate the pistons, rings and cylinder walls". does a diesel engine not need these?
 
paulga said:
do you need to clamp the dipstick on a work bench? then rub the file against the edge of the stick?
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Pretty much. The dipstick is bendy enough that you'd need to hold it in place somehow while filing the notches. I'm not sure why you'd need to though.
 
rslifkin said:
Pretty much. The dipstick is bendy enough that you'd need to hold it in place somehow while filing the notches. I'm not sure why you'd need to though.
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PO told me the engine needs 5 ga oil when I purchased the boat. But I have heard from the manufacturer that the oil capacity of this engine is 14.5 qt. If the marks were made by PO, they are incorrect.
 
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paulga said:
PO told me the engine needs 5 ga oil when I purchased the boat. But I have heard from the manufacturer that the oil capacity of this engine is 14.5 ga. If the marks were made by PO, they are incorrect.
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Considering the min / max lettering next to the marks, I'd bet they're original marks. And for capacity, 14.5 qt is much more likely than 14.5 gal. 5 gal would be 20 qt, so there's a discrepancy somewhere.
 
rslifkin said:
Considering the min / max lettering next to the marks, I'd bet they're original marks. And for capacity, 14.5 qt is much more likely than 14.5 gal. 5 gal would be 20 qt, so there's a discrepancy somewhere.
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Thanks. It's 14.5qt. I have corrected in my post.

should the oil be changed every 50 engine hours or once per year which ever comes first?
 
paulga said:
Thanks. It's 14.5qt. I have corrected in my post.

should the oil be changed every 50 engine hours or once per year which ever comes first?
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50 hours sounds awfully frequent. The shortest interval I'd generally see recommended would be 100 hours and plenty of engines are recommended for longer. Changing once a year if you haven't hit the hours is a safe bet, but if you're way below the recommended hours (such as only having put 20 hours on it in a year) I wouldn't be afraid to go 2 years between changes.

If in doubt about change intervals, pull a sample and send it off to a lab like Blackstone next time you change. That will give some feedback on how long you can actually go for your engine, oil choice, and usage patterns.

For the Lehman 120, I think the oil in the injection pump (separate from the main engine oil) is supposed to be changed at 50 our 100 hours, I can't remember the typical recommendation.
 
An early version of the SP (Sabre Performance) 135 manual did specify 20 qt oil capacity but Ameican Diesel has said that is incorrect, 14.5 is correct.
Both the 120 and the 135 manuals spec a 200 hour oil change period; the 120 has the additional fuel injection pump oil change at 50 hr intervals.
You can add 12 qts oil and mark the dipstick there for minimum, then add 2 1/2 more and mark the dipstick there for full.
 
Marking dipsticks is done to prevent overfilling by using the factory markings which are based on a level engine. In boats the engines are not level and the same engine in different boats will be off level by different amounts.

If you have to add a quart often between oil changes you are most likely overfilled. Instead of adding mark the stick and watch it stay at that level to know for sure, the engine is telling you where full is.
 
In our last boat we had 225 Lehmans. One was always low on oil. I kept adding oil. Finally I stopped adding oil and it never went lower. It was telling me that it wanted to be at that oil level so that is where I left it.
 
As others have said, Dipstick marks are factory installed at level orientation. You have to find the correct volume and make your own scribe lines sometimes. Too much oil can be as catastrophic as too little. Hard to believe, right?
If your oil filter was relocated that will affect your "volume required" due to the extra hose length.
 
Don't mind my comment but I think you are way overthinking an oil change. Nothing different than a car, a truck, your snowblower or a mower.
Remove used oil by any mean, pumping out of dip stick, sump or whatever, replace oil filter, fill in, adjust level, done, go to the fridge, grab a cold one.
No need to add anything, no need for miracle soup of mixed oil can or anything else, especially pouring break cleaning fluid or anything like that down to your engine. Would you like to drink a glass of drano? No? Neither your engine would do.
Keep it dead simple and you and your engine will be happy for life, happy engine, happy life.

L
 
I like to change my oil hot. At least an hour of running time at 1800 RPM. Typically I do it during cruising season at the appropriate engine hour, and then let the engine sit for 15 minutes. I puncture the oil filter with a sharp screwdriver near the top. I use an old gerry can for spent oil, open the valve in the “out” line plumbing to the “Reverso” oil change system and push the drain rocker switch. Drain til it gurgles for 10-15 seconds. Wait for a couple of minutes. Turn it on again until it gurgles and then shut it down. Remove the old oil filter and into a waiting ziplock bag. New oil filter, ensuring the old rubber seal is not left behind. I then use the Reverso to transfer the new oil into the engine. There is less risk of spilling rather than adding it into the engine. I put in about 12 quarts that way and then add “most” of the remaining required oil, close the valve on the plumbing. Run the engine for a minute or two. Let sit for a few minutes. Check oil and add to top mark on dipstick. Check again regularly. The waste oil is stowed safe until I get back to home dock. There’s a waste oil tank at the top of the dock.
 
JDCAVE said:
I like to change my oil hot. At least an hour of running time at 1800 RPM. Typically I do it during cruising season at the appropriate engine hour, and then let the engine sit for 15 minutes. I puncture the oil filter with a sharp screwdriver near the top. I use an old gerry can for spent oil, open the valve in the “out” line plumbing to the “Reverso” oil change system and push the drain rocker switch. Drain til it gurgles for 10-15 seconds. Wait for a couple of minutes. Turn it on again until it gurgles and then shut it down. Remove the old oil filter and into a waiting ziplock bag. New oil filter, ensuring the old rubber seal is not left behind. I then use the Reverso to transfer the new oil into the engine. There is less risk of spilling rather than adding it into the engine. I put in about 12 quarts that way and then add “most” of the remaining required oil, close the valve on the plumbing. Run the engine for a minute or two. Let sit for a few minutes. Check oil and add to top mark on dipstick. Check again regularly. The waste oil is stowed safe until I get back to home dock. There’s a waste oil tank at the top of the dock.
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Is drilling easier to make an oprning on top of the oil filter?
 
paulga said:
Is drilling easier to make an oprning on top of the oil filter?
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No, you just punch a screwdriver through both sides, and use it to unscrew the filter.
 
BruceK said:
No, you just punch a screwdriver through both sides, and use it to unscrew the filter.
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i have a filter wrench to remove the filter, so no need to make the penetrating openings this way
 
does someone have a more clear picture of the stopping arm on the injection pump?
it's right behind the injection pump according to the manual, but somehow i missed it last night

does the 2nd photo also include the mixing elbow?


1723991518271.png


IMG20240818005214.jpg
 
paulga said:
i have a filter wrench to remove the filter, so no need to make the penetrating openings this way
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My primary objection to drilling is that it makes metal filings which may or may not be captured by the filter element.

And really it's just as easy to stab a screwdriver or punch or chisel or whatever through the end of the filter.
Just make a hole. No precision required.
 
Figment said:
My primary objection to drilling is that it makes metal filings which may or may not be captured by the filter element.

And really it's just as easy to stab a screwdriver or punch or chisel or whatever through the end of the filter.
Just make a hole. No precision required.
Click to expand...
Agree 100%. I have an awl that is very sharp and doesn’t take much effort to make a hole in a filter. No metal shavings.
 
Refer back to post #3 and your picture of the engine. The mixing elbow is just to the left of the oil filter, the 3 1/2” black exhoust hose is connected to the mixing elbow, as is 1” hose coming from the transmission oil cooler.
 
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