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Ok that is good to know I suspect my computer junction box is bad. They seem to be readily available for under $200 used. Will look into the corded remotes as well. Did you have to swap any computer chips from the old junction box?

Yes tried holding button down.

Did you replace the computer or the control head?

I mean it does not power up when the on/off button is pushed.

So I have a Simrad Robinson AP3000X autopilot that I got with my boat last year, it is not working. I thought the issue might be with the control head so I sent it out for repair and got it back and it still didn’t work. I sent the control head back to the firm and he bench tested it and said...

Thanks for the reply. The GFI is back in place so there is no danger at this point. I think it’s something within the hydraulic motor that is causing the issue. I have heard that running a motor with a gfi is a no no?

I have a hydraulic boat lift on my boat. We have to physically plug the lift in to use it and all the outlets on my boat or GFCI protected. My issue is that each time I go to use the web the trips the GFCI breaker. I removed one of my GFCI receptacles and put a normal receptacle in and the lift...

Good news it was the impeller. Replaced and all is well.

Will give that a shot. Both engines are fed thru the same bottom intake so I don’t think it will help but will try.

Clam shell strainer? Do u mean the intake on the bottom of the boat? Got back when it was dark wanted engine to cool before restarting to check water flow. Will check today.

So I veered off course and hit a sandbar going about 16 knots. Everything seem ok I was not stuck so I continued my trip. Less than 5 minutes later we overheated our Cummins 6bta starboard engine. When limped home on one engine, when we got back to the dock I took off the raw water intake filter...

How were you able to determine what was causing the issue?

I have twin diesels on my boat and neither engine has a correctly functioning temp gauge. Port engine spikes when I turn on other accessories and especially my navigation lights. Temp is inaccurate before anything is turned on anyway. My starboard gauge gets pinned at 250 degrees until I tap it...

So I found the fuse it was behind the starboard ignition switch. Any took fuse out and it was good. When I reinstalled the gauge started working? Maybe removing the fuse reset something?

I did disconnect the wire for the starboard engine no change. Not sure what he is referring to in post 6?

So I have twin engines, my port floscan is working I disconnected the port floscan harness and connected it with to the starboard floscan gauge to see if it will work and it did not work?

Where is the sensor? Do you mean the gauge?

OK I made it down to the boat pulled off the panel to get to the gauges I don’t see any fuses whatsoever. I followed the red wire and it connects to a power buss with no fuse. Is there anything else I can try?

Nothing on the display. I will pull the gauge of and see if there is anything out of the ordinary. I heard there might be an in-line fuse somewhere.

So stupid me tried to start my boat with the battery switches off and when it didn’t start I thought I had a dead battery so I hit the emergency start button where combines two batteries to start the engine and I did something to the floscan gauge. This is of course my RPM gauge as well as...

The gauge reads “off”. Where is the flow sensor?

Ok will do, thank you for the replies.

I have a 1987 Searay 410 aft cabin. I have been having an issue with power surges when I turn certain things on at the helm. The one that is most troubling involves the temperature gauge. When I turn for instance the navigation lights on my temperature will jump 20 degrees setting off the alarm...

Floscan Issue For some reason my Flosan on my port engine is reading "off" where the gallons per hour display is? Any ideas where to start?

Thank you