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I built one for my boat. I used the basic principle of the schillings rudder and the results can be see in this videohttps://youtu.be/rhDopwxTCbg

It’s only practical for displacement hulls and there just not that many single screw displacement being made. Your boat yard and naval architect I bet would add at least 25000 for it. Then if doesn’t turn out well they have to figure out how to fix it. Cheaper to sell a bow thruster and stern...

I had a shop cut 4 plate that look like the fish shape with a centering hole. Then mounted them on a 2 inch shaft and wrapped the steel around them. The rudder is filled with vegetable oil when finished. I don’t have the measurement on the balance point but I remember doing it less aggressive...

Post a new video just can’t link to the forum with my I phone. If someone wants to that would be great. No buoys where harmed and heavy chain holds the line straight down I know from personal experience with them.

I would back and fill 6 times to make that 360 turn with my original large flat plate rudder that was bigger then the current rudder. The wheel did become lighter with this change. I change the steering piston to one that has twice the travel the year after the install to get more angle on the...

If I redid I move it back about 1 inch it is about as light as would dare want it. Makes for easy steering overall.

I run and repair the tow boats off/on and I have above average boat handling skills. With that being said I would not try it with a million dollar cruiser sitting there. I will try to take a video of the boat turning at cruising speed this week.

Type thistle rudder on YouTube and look for the green boat. I can travel at full speed turn the rudder over and make 180 turn in 30 ft circle with maybe 5 ft of forward progress.

Here is the smartest thing cut the chain with a buoy tied to it and break out the fortress anchor until you can make it to a repair yard. Not worth losing a hand over it. I would not want two windlass I would rather up size with one.

I run enough twins engines to never expect them to be the same. If you run 24 hrs and one burns a gallon more per hr it starts to add up. It does not hurt to double check all the settings but would not spend a lot of money chasing it. It is one of the reason similar boat can vary in mpg.

Shrink wrapping has an advantages but it is expensive and claustrophobic. It really depends on the boat. You are hard-pressed not to burn your power panel with only one 30 amp cord. It’s better to wire a dedicated cord and power distribution panel for your heating needs. When that fails you...

I remember him, my wife now demands the boat come out for the winter less worries and expense. She really hated me checking on the boat during the gales.

I have 12 in pilings in front and behind me at my dock. I would not want to be exposed to a long fetch of ice I would not stay there at any price. The boat suffer the most in the fall when the gales put a 3 ft swell into the marina before ice up. The ice can get up to 18 inches on a cold winter.

I don’t know see a difference with snow load or ice around the boat. If I put 1000 pounds on the boat it changes around an inch at water line. Normally next to the boat the ice is not that save to walk on if you have snow on it I have had a foot get wet. I normally like snow on the boat it is...

I have been known to go out and break ice. But you did bring up a good point make sure you know we’re thru hulls are because you don’t want them at the water line. They can freeze over and break. Mine are stainless steel for reduced worries.

I like oil filled radiant heaters on there own dedicated power line. One In the forward section of the boat and one aft. The whole boat was spray foamed when redid and I don’t need much power. When you have a lot of snow the ice does not get very thick around the hull my hull is steel and I...

Turn into a trimaran with outrigger to both sides. Maybe three foot wide on both side of the canoe you could even use a long fenders for the floats. Then make a snap cover made to go over the canoe to keep out spray. I would even but a small bilge pump in it. When you build the outriggers...

Pick up some 3 inch pipe insulation and when it gets rough you just lash to the side of your upper hull. If it flips while you're towing it serious damage will happen to whatever you are hooked on to.

Steel is easy to cut out and rebuild if you are talking on a small scale. I replaced this area because it cracked when it froze. This area is nearly impossible to get to I cleaned it out and I epoxy the far side and rewelded a new piece back in. That is about 35 years of crap!

Fresh water steel boat hulls can last a long time in the Great Lakes. We have two work boats that are close to 80 years old and they don't get much love.

Beware light gray can get surprisingly hot. I had to change to off white could not walk on with bare feet.

At the dock it is the owner until you decided to leave the dock then it is up to the captain is my rule of thumb.

Give me a 3 year old boat with 500 hours on it. I will have little worries on a delivery run the same goes true for buying one.

I have had good luck with softread paint. http://store.acrytech.com/Soft-Tread-Anti-Slip-Coating-Standard-Colors.html The price is better if you have to a lot to do, my boat takes about 5 gallons for one coat.

The reshaping of the area ahead of the prop has been tested. I will say it exceeded my expectations. The boat is quieter with hardly any vibrations at cruising speed. The bonus I was hoping for was a boat that could back nicely. I can now back up with the rudder straight and continue to go...