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I also bought parts from Redneck. They know their stuff.

I waxed a non skid deck once. Then I learned to NOT wax a non skid deck.

Steam. Past time but not too late to do some raw water cooling system maintenance.

Same one i just emailed

I have an operators manual, but it's a PDF file and I can't upload it here. If you send me an email to: leonaj99@yahoo.com I'll reply with the file.

My old Mainship had a hollow keel and xducer was mounted inside on that keel. I k ew depth below thw keel. My Albin had the xducer mounted a couple of feet above the bottom of the keel on the hull. I never went aground in 30 boating years. So, to me its a moot point

If it were me ( and its not) I would continue with the depth under your keel and let the followers do the math.

I also used Rotella 15-40.

I had 2 bow anchors ready on the Albin. They were both easily deployed without power but someone had to go to the bow and release a light safety line and the windlass clutch on the main.

Winner,winner!

Can't advise you but good luck with the project Marcy.

Looks like 2 cycle oil at first glance

I only marked my chain in 2 places: 50 feet and 100 feet. Never needed to know more than that in my cruising area. Made life simple. 50 in the water, let it set by the wind. 100 coming out, give her a tug in reverse at 800 ish rpm to make sure it's hooked, then let out for the snubber. Worked...

If it were mine, I would paint it with a 2 part epoxy and mix in Home Depot sand. IF after the first coat it is too aggressive, I'd paint a second coat without the sand mixed in. Color and pattern of your choice of course.

Glue a magnet to the bottom of your oil pan ( which is aluminum I believe). The broken part will be attracted to the magnet and stay there. However the screen on oil pump pickup will prevent it from further travel.

It might be painted. I had to replace the coolant ciropump on my ols 1983 Westerbeke genny and it had a super class A red paint job. It was literally the shiniest paint job i have ever seen! I guess thats why it cost almost $500!

I bought spares from McMaster Carr. Also got key stock and cotter pins from them

They do suck. I carried spare assemblies aboard and replaced them several times.

I might be tempted to grind out a large slot in the side of the keel. Remove the shaft log, then do the fiberglass repair afterward. If that would work depending on construction. I would think that would be easier than dicking around with other methods. Im not afraid to do fiberglass work...

I installed a dripless packing hence never enough water in the bilge to worry about.

I once toyed with the idea of converting a twin engine (Perkins 165s) Mainship Pilot 40 into a single engine. I had it pretty well planned out, it would have been either a C series or B series Cummins and a single screw. But I bought a 40 Albin instead.

Block Island is a must in my opinion. There is no place like it. Accept the craziness and embrace it for a couple of days/nights. Get a mudslide at Camplains or Payne's dock.

My first thought was it looks like the ballast resisters that the late 60s to 70s Chrysler products had on the firewall. Always carried a spare in the glovebox.

Its a banjo bolt. It has washers on each side. You can try loosening the bolt a bit with ntil it leaks more, then retighten. It might flush out any dirt that might be the cause of the leak. Otherwise you need new washers. Be careful tightening that bolt. Its hollow since it carries fuel thru...

If the boat in question is a 1977 thru 1986 "Nantucket" style, I would take a look at the survey.