55ft steel trawler 2010

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Don Shephard said:
What is extremely important is who was the builder. I would find out what yard actually constructed the boat.
7500 liters represents approximately 1900 gallons of fuel based on her 2700 nautical mile range and assuming there's approximately a 10 to 15% reserve you're achieving about 1.6 nautical miles per gallon at cruise. That is a little lean for a medium size passage maker. That being said their estimated cruising speed of eight knots if backed down to 7 - 6 1/2 would more than extend the nautical miles per gallon .
That being said if you can afford it – it’s not a deal breaker.
Click to expand...

I may be wrong but I worked out it's approximately 22 -25 litres per hour @ 8 knots? 7500 ÷22 = 340.9 × 8 =2727.
 
I don't see a market crash either - not in boat prices, or slip fees, or marina fuel prices (here at least) or service rates. I must be missing the crash. Still early I suppose. We bought our current boat on ebay and I still troll ebay all the time looking for another once in a lifetime lucky deal on something bigger. I don't sense any decline yet.

(Shopping for a siginificantly upgraded dingy too, no crash there I can see.)
 
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I spoke with my marina owner yesterday. It was just too cold to do much work.

He is sitting on 1,000 gallons of gasoline that he paid around $3.00 a gallon for last fall. He did far better on diesel, has almost none on hand. He didn't want to go into winter with that much gasoline on hand but the weather turned cold quicker than expected, what can you do?

He told me he never makes a lot on gasoline but he will be loosing a few dollars this Spring, if it ever gets here.

pete
 
I’m again disapointed.
All this and no pictures of the hull.
 
57 real ships is another steel option in the Seattle area
 
we have a steel boat..made in 1930...
the good thing is...I don't worry as much with he steel boat than with the glass fiber boat

just a function of making sure the hull is thick enough when you buy it ...depends on your insurance company
the proper anodes, and the proper antifouling

With the steel barge, not paying attention I bump quite hard into a wooden dock....The dock got destroyed, the boat had some paint scratches and a little dent.
IF I would have one this with our glasfiber boat, it would have cracked the hull.

I love steel.... PLUS much easier to modify than glasfiber :)
 
Oh and as rust prevention....use OWATROL

I always mix it in the primer and the top coats.
 
for me, that would be too big of a boat.
Nice but too big.
 
How many pounds would you estimate that Danforth is, nestled in the hawsepipe?
 
dutch-barge said:
we have a steel boat..made in 1930...
the good thing is...I don't worry as much with he steel boat than with the glass fiber boat

just a function of making sure the hull is thick enough when you buy it ...depends on your insurance company
the proper anodes, and the proper antifouling

With the steel barge, not paying attention I bump quite hard into a wooden dock....The dock got destroyed, the boat had some paint scratches and a little dent.
IF I would have one this with our glasfiber boat, it would have cracked the hull.

I love steel.... PLUS much easier to modify than glasfiber :)
Click to expand...

What would you recommend as the minimum steel thickness for a 42 tonne 55ft recreational trawler??
 
The fact that she's steel is almost secondary, as a custom-build I'd be as concerned with the selection and installation of the systems and electrical. The hull itself is relatively easily quantified in an inspection, the systems will require a little deeper digging, but still doable.

As others have noted, custom steel yachts can be a challenging sell, so the price has to be right.

It doesn't say specifically but I assume she's 50Hz. Are you thinking of using her in N AM? If so, that will have to be addressed, for more on that see https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/...from-a-boat-buying-and-ownership-perspective/

Builder is listed as "W Slatter, B Grace and M Hart", I assume those are three individuals and not a boat builder per se, if a builder I am not familiar with them. Australia has an extremely good boat building apprenticeship program, and in my experience their trades people are well above average, so if built there, and it doesn't actually say where she's built, that bodes well.

Not as a single photo of engineering spaces...that's odd.

"she is perfect in every way." After a few successful (in the US) lawsuits you'd think brokers would have learned their lesson by now with that kind of language. There's no such thing, but I'd hold them to it.

She does have nice lines.

"diesel's"? Sigh.
 
Steve DAntonio said:
The fact that she's steel is almost secondary, as a custom-build I'd be as concerned with the selection and installation of the systems and electrical. The hull itself is relatively easily quantified in an inspection, the systems will require a little deeper digging, but still doable.

As others have noted, custom steel yachts can be a challenging sell, so the price has to be right.

It doesn't say specifically but I assume she's 50Hz. Are you thinking of using her in N AM? If so, that will have to be addressed, for more on that see https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/...from-a-boat-buying-and-ownership-perspective/

Builder is listed as "W Slatter, B Grace and M Hart", I assume those are three individuals and not a boat builder per se, if a builder I am not familiar with them. Australia has an extremely good boat building apprenticeship program, and in my experience their trades people are well above average, so if built there, and it doesn't actually say where she's built, that bodes well.

Not as a single photo of engineering spaces...that's odd.

"she is perfect in every way." After a few successful (in the US) lawsuits you'd think brokers would have learned their lesson by now with that kind of language. There's no such thing, but I'd hold them to it.

She does have nice lines.

"diesel's"? Sigh.
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean by engineering space. If you're referring to the engine room then see attachment.

Boat builder is https://www.hartmarine.com.au

Diesels ? Why?

Not sure about Hz. It was built in Australia so should be*220V and50Hz*AC electricity.

?
 

Attachments

  • ENGINE ROOM(1).pdf
    3.7 MB · Views: 47
Looks like a great boat and a proper survey should vet all issues. But to be clear, repairing fiberglass is way easier than steel. Also, fiberglass boats don’t sink from blisters but I have seen steel develop holes in hidden places from corrosion that puts a boat on the bottom. If you stay on top of maintenance, you’ll be fine but again, maintenance can be more involved than steel if corrosion develops.
 
Ralsy said:
Not sure what you mean by engineering space. If you're referring to the engine room then see attachment.

Boat builder is https://www.hartmarine.com.au

Diesels ? Why?

Not sure about Hz. It was built in Australia so should be*220V and50Hz*AC electricity.

?
Click to expand...

Engineering spaces include engine room, lazarette, bilges, fo'c's'le etc. Essentially any spaces that are not accommodations.

While I see as long list of things I'd critique there are no deal killers, and many things look like they are done right (Racor heat shields, the thru-hull standpipe fittings, articulating exhaust stanchions), the ER is neat and clean, gear looks accessible. Based on the outlets it is 50 Hz.

Why not include the builder in the listing I wonder?

"Diesel's"...misspelled, no apostrophe needed.
 
Long Island Boater said:
Looks like a great boat and a proper survey should vet all issues. But to be clear, repairing fiberglass is way easier than steel. Also, fiberglass boats don’t sink from blisters but I have seen steel develop holes in hidden places from corrosion that puts a boat on the bottom. If you stay on top of maintenance, you’ll be fine but again, maintenance can be more involved than steel if corrosion develops.
Click to expand...


Totally disagree! For example, replacing fuel tanks on a steel boat is pretty easy. Cut hole in hull by fuel tank, remove tank, install new tank, weld hull piece back in. Just a strong as original. doing that with a FG boat can be problematic to return hull to original strength without VERY EXPERIENCED crew doing work. Repairing steel is simple if you know what you're doing.:D
 
Based upon internet pictures and information she seems a proper vessel with lots to like. Nothing beats hands on inspections by a good steel hull guy though.

Two things I see that are worth some time pondering. First, teak over steel decks allows for moisture entrapment. Secondly the hull was sitting for awhile with several owners (thanks Simi) before the final build occurred. The details of taking that hull's interior to bare white steel and paint/coatings spec details are essential IMHO.

For about $500K US the price is in the ball park. Can't say how it compares in the smaller Australian market.

Too bad one of our steel guys Delfin isn't here to comment, he is a genius on yacht quality steel vessels.
 
Sunchaser, what I see in the photos is a manufactured faux 'teak' decking.
That is generally glued in place and doesn't trap moisture. I completely agree with
your caution about wood against steel - it was the bane of my last boat. :cry:
 
Questions to ask:

  • How much insulation and what type of insulation.
  • What paint system was used on the interior hull.
  • Was the interior blasted to white, or near white, before painting.
  • How is the deck attached to the steel deck.
  • Is the deck real wood or fake.(Looks fake to me too)
  • Type of steel(I assume A36)
  • Thickness of steel at keel, hull, deck, house sides, etc.
How the interior of the boat was treated and then painted is critical.

Later,
Dan
 
KnotYet said:
Sunchaser, what I see in the photos is a manufactured faux 'teak' decking.
That is generally glued in place and doesn't trap moisture. I completely agree with
your caution about wood against steel - it was the bane of my last boat. :cry:
Click to expand...

I have had "faux teak" glued on my trawler ( 2010), the brand was flexiteak, but some dealers gave another name. What I have seen is with the difference of temperature between the steel deck and the "faux teak", some joints were open between plates. This created from my point of view, a possibility to let water and moisture underneath.
So I have decided to remove completely this bloody PVC which was also very uncomfortable during summer in Med, and repaint completely the deck with KIWIGRIP, an excellent product with many different colours available to match the white paint of my supertstructures. A serious work and more or less 200 kg less ( not a big deal for me , my trawler is 60Tonnes fully loadedhttps://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif
One lesson I remember, nothing on steel another than paints, primers etc.. By the way, you are always able to control and have a look.
I must say also that KIWIGRIP is anti slip, PVC can be a nightmare when it rains.
 
I have had water migrate beneath faux teak on steel and alloy decks. I've also been involved in repairing alloy decks under genuine teak, neither is ideal. The teak never actually touches the deck, it's resting in Thiokol or similar bedding compound, so no real difference. Water migrates between the seal and deck regardless of the material. Personally, I counsel against anything over a metal deck, or FRP for that matter, non-skid is no maintenance, and relatively easy to replace. I understand people liking the appearance, but teak, faux or genuine is another layer of trouble, pardon the pun. Having said that, I have had very good success with cork "teak". What bothers me about most faux teak is you know as soon as you look at it it's not real, but it's trying to look like teak. With the cork, you know it's not teak, it looks like cork. It's easy on the feet, absorbs impact from dropped hardware or tools, good insulation, resists staining, and seems to stay adhered to the sealant. I have some jobs that are 10 years old on Al vessels and still look good.
 
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