A dearth of trawlers in the Adriatic and Ionian

[Hydraulicjump]

We have spent much of the last month messing around in boats in the Adriatic—principally the Croatian coast—and the Ionian. Other than the crushing number or tourists (we refer to them as turoids) in the towns that cruise ships have access to, we have been very pleased with these cruising grounds, especially coming from the PNW and its cold water environs. And my goodness the food is much better. Most of the folks on this forum have spent some time here, and there are multiple threads focused on cruising here.

But what we (as PNW cruisers with history in sailboats) were so struck by was the dearth of trawler-like boats. The area is dominated by monohull sailboats, followed by charter (mostly) catamarans, and go-fast powerboats with hairy-chested men with gold necklaces at the helm. Trawlers like ours show up now and then, but they are not terribly common. Is this cultural or does it reflect cruising conditions?

I know that there are trawler-like boats here. I saw some of them. And the sailboats were often acting as trawlers (meaning they motored—like they do in the PNW—instead of sailing). But still, there is a striking dearth of trawlers compared to other boats. And after med-mooring a catamaran in a 20 kt cross breeze, I will take my stodgy Helmsman 38e any day in close quarters maneuvering.

Just an observation, nothing more. I bet there are a bunch of trawlers elsewhere. I just did not see them!

 

[Mac2]

I heard Croatia is some of the best cruising in the world. Wondering if there are plenty of anchorages within easy reach.

 

[balder8]

We have spent much of the last month messing around in boats in the Adriatic—principally the Croatian coast—and the Ionian. Other than the crushing number or tourists (we refer to them as turoids) in the towns that cruise ships have access to, we have been very pleased with these cruising grounds, especially coming from the PNW and its cold water environs. And my goodness the food is much better. Most of the folks on this forum have spent some time here, and there are multiple threads focused on cruising here.

But what we (as PNW cruisers with history in sailboats) were so struck by was the dearth of trawler-like boats. The area is dominated by monohull sailboats, followed by charter (mostly) catamarans, and go-fast powerboats with hairy-chested men with gold necklaces at the helm. Trawlers like ours show up now and then, but they are not terribly common. Is this cultural or does it reflect cruising conditions?

I know that there are trawler-like boats here. I saw some of them. And the sailboats were often acting as trawlers (meaning they motored—like they do in the PNW—instead of sailing). But still, there is a striking dearth of trawlers compared to other boats. And after med-mooring a catamaran in a 20 kt cross breeze, I will take my stodgy Helmsman 38e any day in close quarters maneuvering.

Just an observation, nothing more. I bet there are a bunch of trawlers elsewhere. I just did not see them!

Hello, what you say is absolutely true. In Europe, trawlers started to be more appreciated after energy costs increase and ''politically correct" developments about pollution, "small planet on fire'' discussion etc. The process started with the Beneteau 42 st, in fact a very good boat regardind price etc but a true semi planning boat, so far from Robert Beebe philosophy..Considering italian aristocracy of fast planning boats for people unable to handle a sailing yacht or looking for comfortable condos on water like Azimuts, or Princess and Fairlines from UK, the ST 42 introduced a kind of romantism, on the slow mode: in fact, definetly cheaper than a GB and more easy to buy in Europe.
I can tell you that when I come in a marina with my North sea trawler 57, there is always somebody to come to me and ask: is this a conversion boat, are you an ex fisherman? The add on of horizontal foldaways paravanes is "le clou du spectacle": what hell are you doing with these arms??? I answer with patience they are oftenly used in PNW, Austrialia or NZ as stabilizers or a back up to hydraulic stabilizers..All is matter or maritime culture, knowledge and also traditions. Something has changed a little bit and more and more sailors are going on the dark side and are enjoying real trawlers ( less noise and vibrations, safety atsea, long passages, minus diesel consumption) but it is still a 'niche market" for experienced yachtmen and admirals or else or other salty dogs near their 50- 60 or more.Now a new concept is developing and if you add the word Explorer to the marketing brochure, you are the king of the boat show.
Last, I must admit that with my keel cooling cheminey on the flybridge ( fortunately my brillant JD 6081 AFM 75 heavh duty M1 doesn't emit rude smokes) , I feel like Sir Lawrence of Arabia, "arab in a british communauty and so british in an arab communauty" . To be clear, a stranger to sailors and as well a stranger in the small world of bling-bling new money fast motorboat owners. But I do not take care because I am pretty sure they are all jealous of my brave Dutch steel passagemaker

I

 

[Mambo42]

I heard Croatia is some of the best cruising in the world. Wondering if there are plenty of anchorages within easy reach.

There are still anchorages in Croatia, but you need to know where to find them. Many bays nowadays have mooring fields, operated by private people who managed to get a license (i.o.w. they paid off the right persons). You will be charged between 50 and 100 euro per night (sometimes even up to 150 euro per night) and for garbage disposal they will charge extra. Problem is that these buoys are not maintained and in heavy weather they are known to fail. Always check Navily for the experiences of others, they will tell you if buoys have failed or not.
Using their own anchor is only a small portion of the charter boats, however for some reason blow boaters like to be as close as they can to other boats. It seems to be some sort of disease and when you ask them to take some more distance from you, for safety purposes, they simply don't understand why that would be necessary. However, when you anchor in depths of around 15 mtrs you won't find a lot of blow boaters next to you, it is simply too deep for them.
The majority of the charter boats (and also the fast motor yachts) can be found in the ports and marinas down the beaten path (the standard places like Zadar, Split, Trogit, Hvar, Dubrovnik, Solta, Brac etc), so as long as you stay away from those you won't have to deal with the daily madness. On Youtube you can find enough videos of all the madness and damages in the ports and marinas, those videos are fun to watch, but it is not fun to be in one of those marinas / ports when the boats start coming in. You simply cannot leave your boat unattended, chances are you come back and you have sustained damage, but the culprit who did it is long gone. So you will have to be alert from the moment you enter the marina / port until 7 or 8 in the evening.
If you find yourself a nice anchorage (sometimes only large enough for one boat) the best idea is to move there on a Friday or Saturday. Those are the change out days for the charter boats, which means it is relatively quiet. Then you position your boat and don't move anymore for as long as possible (until you get a storm or until the next change over).
This is what we did this summer, in the end staying for close to a month in an anchorage during the high season madness. Once that was over we started to move again and at the moment we are in Mali Losinj, sheltering for some more bad weather. The days before we were mostly on anchor in bays that are now mostly empty.

So yes, it is possible to find anchorages, but you have to plan ahead. If it is close to a popular destination it is going to be busy. The further you are away from the popular places the more chance you have to find a quiet bay. And of course come during the off season, so not in July and August.

 

[Hippocampus]

Only have US east coast and eastern Caribbean chain experience.
In the Caribbean anchorages are in horseshoe shaped bays on the west coasts of the islands to be in the lee of the Atlantic. Acceptable depth is on the perimeter. So only mega yachts anchor in the middle. Multiple friends have cruised the eastern med and tell me it’s the same in many places. Not a sail v power thing as in the Caribbean every one uses all chain and has at least 200’. Often much more chain to allow >5 to 1 if necessary.

Over the years while cruising the Caribbean our cruising grounds changed. We either avoided or stopped going to any island that had cruise ships. Avoided like the plague any place that supplied charter boats. Between cruise ships, charter boats and resorts with PWC rentals much of the leewards have become Miami Beach south so were avoided.

We did see old school full displacement recreational trawlers. But between the trades, races, and available services almost all above 50’. Whereas a 36’ monohull sailboat was adequate for inter island cruising. So power below 60’ were few and far between. Nearly all cruisiers got out of the hurricane zone as required by insurance. Under ~50’ this is difficult in small power. But fairly benign and inexpensive in blue water sail in 40’ and up to either US coast 40N and up or back to Europe and the Med.

Other than charter cats cats were rare. Exceptions were Outremer, Catana and more exotic blue water multis. For the cruiser berthing and storage made multis less likely. Whereas for the non ocean going charterers having four staterooms made them attractive in the non summer months.

Basic problem throughout the world too many people with too much money wanting to briefly be in the good cruising grounds. The private long term cruiser or liveaboard is not where the money is so is being squeezed out.