Anchor Scope Cheat Sheet

[psneeld]

I drive a bit to wash off mud too...the amount of "cloud" mud sucked up passes right through the coing system in my mind ....it is so fine it remains in suspension both in the water and cooling system.

The heavier stuff I doubt ever gets anywhere near the engine intakes, thus isn't even found in the strainers or heat exchanger.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I always try to back down to rinse the anchor if I have enough room. It cleans up faster by being "pressure washed" from the prop wash and it stays a little out front where I can see it. When the plume of mud subsides, it's time to raise it and deal with the vegetation.

My prior owner left a big serrated knife onboard and I found a great use for it. Cuts through kelp and grass on the anchor like butter. I just need to make the handle three feet long so the operation can be done comfortably from behind the bow rail.

For those who like to obsess about scope, what about inches (or centimeters)? You can't leave that out of your calculation or you'll be all wrong. And then there's still fractions (or millimeters). It was all discussed in an article in The Impractical Sailor magazine.

 

[Nomad Willy]

AusCan wrote;
“Calculating the required scope doesn't need to be done to multiple decimal places.“

I absolutely agreeeeeeeeeeeeee..............

 

[Hippocampus]

Agre with MF. Also find the mud comes off much quicker as the flukes line up to direction of pull. Finally don’t like the chain nor the anchor to have any chance to hit the boat and mar it. Our technique has been to wash the chain well but not worry about the anchor at all on a bumpy day. It will clean up by itself as soon as green water hits it. On calm days get out of the anchorage with the anchor up. Once in a good open spot drop it again and back down to clean it. Fine a few pokes with a pole /boat hook to create holes makes it clean up real fast.

 

[Peter B]

AusCan wrote;
“Calculating the required scope doesn't need to be done to multiple decimal places.“

I absolutely agreeeeeeeeeeeeee..............

 

[syjos]

Calculating the required scope doesn't need to be done to multiple decimal places.

I agree. I calculate scope in my head rounding up. The chain is marked at 30' intervals and I usually let out to the next 30' mark.

I choose scope depending on weather and bottom, other boats and whether we've anchored there before. I put anchoring safety first but also mindfull of not taking up too much space when choosing scope. Boating etiquett 101 practiced here in the crowded anchorages of the PNW, minimizing scope and equipping appropriately.

 

[La Sirena]

Warren, I get your point about taller boats will require more scope and how it affects the anchor circle. But so does length of boat. The bigger, longer boat will have a much larger circle of swing even if they calculated their scope based on the water line to the bottom.

Just for the record, I have always calculated my scope based on the distance from the bottom to the bow roller. But I realize that many.people measure it differently, or don't measure at all. That's why I always measure the distance and imagine the worst in a tight anchorage.

 

[psneeld]

I would have to back down at full throttle to grt the prop wadh from my boat to accelerate the washing.

Most of my anchorages I leave at idle speed and it takes a few minutes or more where the anchor and chain comes nowhere near the boat.

So I guess therefore whatever works for you. It depends on anchor and idle speed, but in my anchorages, I really prefer going forward.⁹