Barnacle Buster-Magic Elixir

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The problem I see with circulation is you have to remove the impellor and thermostat to get a complete flush. With a soak on a warm engine that issue is eliminated. Various ideas as to how long to soak, even on there website.


If it's a closed cooling engine you wouldn't need to remove the thermostat. That's in the coolant loop, while you'd be flushing the raw water loop. However, the impeller does need to come out for a circulating flush unless you can bypass the raw water pump.
 
FlyWright- found this old thread on BB. Am I correct that you flushed the raw water side using that cheapo pump and without running your engine? And you circulated the BB back into the bucket rather than just out the exhaust? Could one just circulate it long enough to fill the entire raw water side (and maybe lose some out the exhaust) before letting it set and work its magic?

Yes, your description of my process is correct. Since I had previously replaced the RW inlet hose from the strainer to the RW pump, I knew I had no obstructions there. I pumped the BB into the RW side immediately downstream from the RW pump and diverted it into the bucket just prior to the mixing elbow. My elbow has a fitting attached to accept the RW hose. I detached this fitting and flushed through it as well in the bucket, then replaced it with a new fitting I had for this engine. I ran the flush for 4 hrs.

I would recommend flushing continuously instead of soak-and-wait as the acidity of the solution in use would be more affected by the minerals in the stagnant soak. IMO, the more solution you use, the less the effectiveness and acid nature of the solution is reduced.
 
I stand corrected.

If it's a closed cooling engine you wouldn't need to remove the thermostat. That's in the coolant loop, while you'd be flushing the raw water loop. However, the impeller does need to come out for a circulating flush unless you can bypass the raw water pump.

Thanks for clarifying that. This is the page where I got that info:


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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
This area is for the support we offer regarding all our products, even our Frequently Asked Questions. If you have pre-sales questions about our products or have other non-technical support questions, please contact us through our contact section here.

For immediate technical support or to request repairs or other services, call us at 954.987.2722 Monday - Friday, 9:00 am to 5:00 p.m. EST.

BARNACLE BUSTER
Q:What About Zincs And Aluminum Anodes?
A:
Barnacle Buster will dissolve small quantities of zincs or other sacrificial anodes. Many times small section of anodes will flake off and clog water passages. Barnacle Buster will dissolve these ‘flakes’ while also removing all of the marine growth. It is recommended that you temporarily remove your sacrificial anodes while flushing with Barnacle Buster.

Q:How Can I Circulate Your Product Without Running The Motor. The Thermostat Would Keep Water From Circulating In The Engine Block?
A:
As you pointed out, the thermostat would prevent the solution from reaching the engine block, so the only efficient way to flush these is to remove the thermostat and use a flushing system to recirculate the solution. The solution should be injected at the lowest end and return from the highest end of the system, and at the end of the flush we recommend back flushing the system to help remove any loose debris.

Q:I Cannot Recirculate, How Long Should I Leave Barnacle Buster Soaking In My System?
A:
If you are not able to recirculate, you may soak your system. We recommend soaking between 6-12 hours, depending on the amount of scale.

Q:How Often Should I Use Barnacle Buster?
A:
We recommend flushing your systems twice a year as preventative maintenance. However, in warmer climates, you may want to consider flushing more often.

Q:Does Barnacle Buster Have A Shelf Life?
A:
Barnacle Buster does not have a shelf life. The product will remain active until it has been thoroughly used. Each gallon of ready-to-use solution will absorb 1.5 pounds of marine growth. Once that amount has been taken in, the product is no longer active and should be discarded. While we understand that it is sometimes difficult to see how much has been absorbed, you may drop a sea shell (calcium-based object) in the solution. An active solution will dissolve the shell within 20 minutes.

Q:Can I Flush More Than One System At A Time?
A:
Yes, you can, that’s what’s great about TRAC! By pumping two systems together in a series you can easily flush both systems concurrently, saving you a lot of time.

Q:How Can I Tell If My Product Is Still Active?
A:
If you do not have access to a pH meter, try dropping a small seashell in the solution. The shell should completely dissolve itself within a 20 minutes time period. You may purchase pH strips from Trac. Our test strips measure 0.0 - 6.0. The correct pH for Barnacle Buster is between 1.0 - 1.25.

Q:How Can I Make Sure That The Cleaning Has Completed?
A:
The best method is by measuring the pH level. The pH will rise during the application as deposits are dissolved. Once the pH has leveled off, or maintains at a set level for about 1 hour, the solution is no longer dissolving any material and has completed the cleaning. If a pH meter is not available, a visual inspection of the product will work but it is not 100% reliable. Once the foaming reduces, the application should be complete.

Q:When Using The Concentrate, Can I Dilute It More Than It Is Recommended?
A:
You can, but you will not obtain the desired results with a diluted solution.

Q:What About Carpets And Wood?
A:
The product will react in the same manner as water would on carpets and wood.

Q:Do I Need To Be Careful When Handling Your Products?
A:
These products by nature will etch most metals. In other words ANY polished aluminum, marble, or tile will lose its shine. Covering your work area and removing deck plates is recommended. As far as any immediate danger to the applier of our products, TRAC solutions are safe, non-toxic, biodegradable, non-corrosive, and non-hazardous.

Q:Do I Need To Rinse After The Application?
A:
In most cases, yes. Usually this entails starting the engine, or turning on the air conditioning. FOR DRINKING, BLACK, and GRAY WATER SYSTEMS: a good flush is required because you do not want to leave the chemical in the system for an extended amount of time.

Q:What About The Metals In My System?
A:
If used as directed, our solutions will not harm metal. Galvanized metal, zinc, tin and some aluminum oxides should be closely monitored when using TRAC solutions. The aluminum designed for uses in a water system, which most marine equipment is, is normally compatible with Trac Products. NOTE: ZINC ANODES WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED PRIOR TO OR REPLACED AFTER COMPLETION OF CLEANING.

Q:Will Trac's Solutions Attack My Gaskets, Seals, Or Plastics?
A:
NO! All of our solutions are specifically formulated for these types of applications. These materials can actually stay in full contact with the products for several weeks without being corrupted.
 
I use Rydlyme and do it hot. 5 gallon bucket, cold engine run at idle, salt water pump used for circulation, shutdown about 190°. Heat exchanger is clean, no issue with zincs.


Works much faster with heat.
 
I used BB on our last boats engines. My starboard engine was a PITA to remove the impeller so I did the sit and soak method. Let it sit for 7 hours. Afterwards one engine dropped 5 degrees and the other one dropped 10 degrees. So I was quite happy with the results.
 
The problem I see with circulation is you have to remove the impellor and thermostat to get a complete flush. With a soak on a warm engine that issue is eliminated. Various ideas as to how long to soak, even on there website.
Isn't the thermostat only used for the coolant, and not the raw water?
 

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