Beneteau Swift Trawler 44

[FlyWright]

I only thought this because one of my two windshield pieces is polarized. I had the boat for 5 years before retirement and never knew it since pilots can't wear polarized lenses in flight and I didn't have a 2nd pair. Once I retired, I bought polarized lenses and ...lo and behold...there are the dots!

 

[dhays]

Anyone have issues with their windshields when wearing sun glasses? I see spots on all the windows. It is very annoying and was causing eye strain as we were operating 8-10 hours a day. Attached is a picture of what I see.

I assume your sunglasses are polarized. Use non-polarized lenses and you won’t have the problem.

Presssure or stress on a glass or polymer lens will create some polarization in the windshield. Polarized lenses will create areas of cross-polarization and you will see those patterns.

That stress can be created as the material is cooled after being made into a sheet. Given the regularity of the pattern from your photo (nice job on the photo btw) I would bet it is caused from the cooling process.

 

[rclarke246]

Its the one on the sump that I circled in red in the picture in my prior post. I heard that Beneteau may have changed the vent design a few times.

What happened with your fuel pump?

No, I had fuel back wash once when fueling at a “high volume” diesel pump. It was actually at Harbortown, Hilton Head, SC. Before I could react I had what seemed like a major geyser of diesel fuel erupting from my fuel fill. I’m more careful now and listen closely as it fills. I guess the venting could be better.

 

[boater3]

No, I had fuel back wash once when fueling at a “high volume” diesel pump. It was actually at Harbortown, Hilton Head, SC. Before I could react I had what seemed like a major geyser of diesel fuel erupting from my fuel fill. I’m more careful now and listen closely as it fills. I guess the venting could be better.

Ohh gotcha. Yeah, mine is a bit finicky when fueling. I fueled up at a super high speed diesel pump I think it was 50 gallons per minute and had to hold it half way. The sweet spot seems to be somewhere between 20-30 gpm. I make sure I have no fenders blocking the vent and the nozzle is in a good position. Does not seem to like being all the way in so I give it a few cm. I saw something interesting at a pump the other day - they had a think absorbent boom around the nozzle to help prevent spray back. My fuel tank calibration also seems to be off as one tank has a 5-6% difference. Not a big issue maybe I can figure out how to re-calibrate.

 

[rclarke246]

My calibrations have always been incorrect, even after I went through recalibration steps when full.

Always show discrepancies but if I go with the lowest reading, usually the port tank, it’s pretty accurate. People tell me boat gauges are always screwy. Hard to understand in this age of precision.

Last time out somewhat scary: heading out to fuel up, which is 15 miles away, gauges showed “15/18”, port / starboard. Halfway there the starboard gauge goes to “0”! ?

Ran fine and it corrected as soon as I fueled up so it had to be a gauge malfunction.

I’m going to close those crossover valves between the 2 tanks.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. m. Mr. dh is correct regarding the "spotting" being a result of the cooling process of the glazing material, in your case, glass. Part of the tempering method involves blowing air on the hot glass as it exits the lehr (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lehr_%28glassmaking%29) . Those "spots" are areas where the air hit the surface of the glass. Most, if not all, automotive style tempered glass is manufactured via this method. The reason you haven't seen this in your car may be the angle of the glass or the orientation of the glass in the frame. If you tilt your head those spots will most probably become more or less visible depending on the angle. NOT suggesting you drive with your head crooked but it will demonstrate that viewing angle does have an effect.
Perhaps a different brand of polarized glasses may help or the next time you get a prescription pair of spec's, ask the optician to orient the polarization in a different direction (I have no idea if this is possible but it may alleviate some of the eye strain).

 

[SOJOURN4]

All -.

Same issue with fueling.
Port is much better than stbd. If TOO fast, fuel fill burps diesel.
I fill up REAL slow now
Going to check vent lines (somehow) to make sure no bellies and are they not filled with diesel since I tend to most likely over fill tanks.

 

[MichaelB1969]

All -.

Same issue with fueling.
Port is much better than stbd. If TOO fast, fuel fill burps diesel.
I fill up REAL slow now
Going to check vent lines (somehow) to make sure no bellies and are they not filled with diesel since I tend to most likely over fill tanks.

Same here as well. I had a major geyser at the high flow pump in Half Moon Bay. Harbor Patrol arrived in the midst of it all and they were waiting to fill up. Embarrassing, but they were actually super helpful. Gave me a bunch of absorbent pads, etc.

I am very careful after that experience.

Seeing that geyser shoot up a few feet in the air was seriously traumatizing.

 

[boater3]

All -.

Same issue with fueling.
Port is much better than stbd. If TOO fast, fuel fill burps diesel.
I fill up REAL slow now
Going to check vent lines (somehow) to make sure no bellies and are they not filled with diesel since I tend to most likely over fill tanks.

I am curious on the vent configuration. The actual vent looks like a poor choice for a fuel vent as water can potentially get in. I too am curious if there is diesel or water potentially clogging my vent lines. I havent had an issue so long as I stick to 20-25 gpm pumps. I was just assuming our setup is nothing like the large sportfish that take on 1,000+ gallons at a time and at 50+ gpm.

 

[boater3]

I am hoping to wrap up my house battery bank upgrade/expansion this week. Will have some photos to share.

In the mean time, given the delightful weather, I was wondering if anyone's screens, either on the salon or starboard lower helm entry way, have handles on the outside? I am trying to figure out how I can close the screens when I am exiting the salon...

 

[Ole Hank]

This thread has a few things going on. In regard to Mystery and RClarke on the fuel gauge. Possibly not the problem but my tanks have a valve between them. if I am running the generator it pulls from one tank. Even if the valve is open it takes quite a while to equalize.

 

[rclarke246]

My dealer added some whiteboard strips to the outside

 

[boater3]

My dealer added some whiteboard strips to the outside

Thanks! I might have to fabricate something

 

[boater3]

FYI Viking's 22 pound composite propane cylinder fits in the locker. I was looking for something larger than the 10 pound that came with the boat for longer cruising. I will keep the 10 pound filled as a backup. The composite cylinders are also somewhat see-through so you can see the propane level which is great for knowing when you are running low. I also realized there is no vent in the propane locker so will be installing one.

 

[Ole Hank]

I just use standard 20 pound steel tank that is on an exchange program. I have the back up 10 lb Al. In the propane locker. I dont get much rust on the steel tank and swap it out every so often when in the US.

 

[rclarke246]

There is a proper vent on the floor of the propane locker. I’m sure that Beneteau didn’t eliminate it as it’s vital. Check it out.

 

[boater3]

There is a proper vent on the floor of the propane locker. I’m sure that Beneteau didn’t eliminate it as it’s vital. Check it out.

Good catch. I for some reason was thinking the drain would be good for propane liquid but propane vapor would still need a vent higher up but looks like the vapor is heavier than air and would hopefully escape through the drain as well.

 

[rclarke246]

Propane vapors are heavier than air which is why the drain/vent is on the bottom of the locker. No need for an upper vent.

 

[boater3]

i am sanitizing the fresh water tanks and decided i will add bleach directly to the tanks versus the deck fill. upon inspecting the hoses, i noticed both vent hoses were extremely dirty and one was filled with water. might explain why i had issues when running on the fresh water tanks a few months ago. i removed the vent hoses and added bleach solution to them. once they are clean, i will sanitize the tanks themselves. i already found a way to re-route the vent lines to make the slope continuous. i might have to chop off a few inches on both. i haven't corrected the sump vent yet because its not as accessible but it will likely need to be cut in the middle, some length removed, and rejoined.

i am wondering if these vent lines got clogged from the fresh water / sump tanks over flowing or if the water is getting in from the outside. if its coming from outside, i have larger concerns about the vents used on the fuel lines and the potential for water intrusion..

 

[SOJOURN4]

Mystery -

Just sanitized my fw tanks also. I noticed an issue with the port side fill line - it had a belly and allowed water to stand and get a bit cruddy. A wire tie worked perfectly to change the slope.

I am going to put the fw sanitizing on my spring commissioning list.

Good luck

 

[boater3]

Mystery -

Just sanitized my fw tanks also. I noticed an issue with the port side fill line - it had a belly and allowed water to stand and get a bit cruddy. A wire tie worked perfectly to change the slope.

I am going to put the fw sanitizing on my spring commissioning list.

Good luck

I like easy fixes!

I may keep adding bleach throughout the season to each fill. I have to research how much to add. I am also going to try to see how accurate the gauge is tomorrow as I usually do not want to keep a full load of water unless I will be on the hook or a mooring.

 

[SOJOURN4]

1/4 cup to 15 gals

 

[OldDan1943]

There was a discussion about "household" chlorine bleach and the effect the water tank and hoses.
I think the conclusion was to use a non-clorine bleach, ie GreenWise non-chlorine 'bleach'. It contains hydrogen peroxide and citric acid. Publix sell it, I am sure other grocery stores also sells the equivalent too. It is supposed to accomplish the same thing but less hard on the fresh water tank and associated hoses.

 

[boater3]

Been working hard on the ST44.

Got the house battery bank upgrade complete right before memorial day. I am able to easily get 3-4 days of normal power use (with inverter on for AC) on the new bank which exceeds my expectations. I will post up some pictures of what I did shortly with more detailed write-up in a new thread.

Question for all ST44 owners - I have not yet thought about anchoring as I've been at docks or moorings so far. We may need to anchor for overnights this summer and I noticed there is no chain stopper. My understanding is the weight should not be kept on the windlass and a chain stopper needs to be used or the rode should be secured directly to a bollard, sampson post, or cleat. How are you guys securing at anchor?

I also need to measure how much chain and rode there is. I have a feeling its not as much as I think... I am curious what length chain or chain + rode you guys are keeping on-board? I am concerned that putting too much chain will put too much weight on the bow... Looks like I have a V2 Lewmar with a 003 Gypsy which means I should be using 3/8" chain...?

Thanks!!!

 

[MichaelB1969]

Been working hard on the ST44.

Got the house battery bank upgrade complete right before memorial day. I am able to easily get 3-4 days of normal power use (with inverter on for AC) on the new bank which exceeds my expectations. I will post up some pictures of what I did shortly with more detailed write-up in a new thread.

Question for all ST44 owners - I have not yet thought about anchoring as I've been at docks or moorings so far. We may need to anchor for overnights this summer and I noticed there is no chain stopper. My understanding is the weight should not be kept on the windlass and a chain stopper needs to be used or the rode should be secured directly to a bollard, sampson post, or cleat. How are you guys securing at anchor?

I also need to measure how much chain and rode there is. I have a feeling its not as much as I think... I am curious what length chain or chain + rode you guys are keeping on-board? I am concerned that putting too much chain will put too much weight on the bow...

Thanks!!!

I think I have 100 feet of chain and 100 feet of rope.

As for securing the anchor, I use this. Very high quality. Works great.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-bridle/

I think I got the medium if I remember correctly.

 

[rclarke246]

Lady Di was delivered to me with 120’ of 3/8” chain and 125’ of 3/4” nylon line. I had a bridle custom made which has the chain hook transferring the load to the 2 bow cleats.

 

[boater3]

I think I have 100 feet of chain and 100 feet of rope.

As for securing the anchor, I use this. Very high quality. Works great.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-bridle/

I think I got the medium if I remember correctly.

I just counted! Same... 100 feet chain and 100 feet of rope. How do you use that bridle if you are at rope and not chain (i.e. feet 100-200).

Edit: Looks like this works on rope: https://www.mantusmarine.com/snubber-pendant/

I also had a problem with the windlass putting the rope back in the anchor locker. Seems to be it gets caught once its past the windlass, trying to get back into the locker. Had to manually pull it through. Once I got it past the splice from rope to chain and was all chain, it worked without issue.

 

[MichaelB1969]

I just counted! Same... 100 feet chain and 100 feet of rope. How do you use that bridle if you are at rope and not chain (i.e. feet 100-200).

Ha ha, I don't!

Edit: Looks like this works on rope: https://www.mantusmarine.com/snubber-pendant/

I need to buy this! And I need to learn how to tie a 3 pass prusik knot.

I also had a problem with the windlass putting the rope back in the anchor locker. Seems to be it gets caught once its past the windlass, trying to get back into the locker. Had to manually pull it through. Once I got it past the splice from rope to chain and was all chain, it worked without issue.

My rope doesn't get caught, but it does get caught up a the splice. At which point I need to reach underneath and pull the rope down with my hand as I turn on the windlass, which allows the chain to drop through. From there it's smooth sailing (or smooth cruising).

 

[boater3]

Alright, made it more North and arrived at what will be my local dealer. Hoping to get some priority items resolved but we both can't figure something out...

On the bimini frame, there are two pieces of hardware, one on either side, we don't know where they connect. I have pictures from another ST44 that I looked at before buying this one and it has the same not connected to anything. We are trying to figure out if they are important because my bimini canvas was torn to shreds and perhaps its additional support that would've helped prevent. Picture attached to this post. Anyone have these and if so are they connected to anything?

Other items we are trying to tackle right now:

1. Replacing port trim tab actuator due to gasket coming apart
2. Water keeps entering main bilge below house/engine batteries while under way. We could not replicate during sea trial unfortunately.
3. Both rudder seals are leaking. Hoping to get the “new and improved” design
4. 16k BTU AC under Salon TV alternates between ‘HP’ error, a low temperature such as 30, and sometimes does not turn off
5. Ice maker does not make ice, keeps spitting out hot water
6. There is a sewage smell in the boat that is apparent especially when its hot outside. Seems to be coming from bilge. I noticed a bolt on the macerator snapped
7. Guest head toilet keeps spraying back when flushed
8. Bow railing loose in multiple spots, especially on port side.
9. Fixing the exhaust hose on the port engine as it is allowing water to collect, causing it to sag

I have another list of items but didn't want to overwhelm them. On my priority upgrades I want to change the salt water wash down pump to fresh water and install a WiFi antenna on the mast.

 

[OldDan1943]

alright, at the dealer now, hoping to get some priority items resolved but we both can't figure something out...

On the bimini frame, there are two pieces of hardware, one on either side, we don't know where they connect. I have pictures from another st44 that i looked at before buying this one and it has the same not connected to anything. We are trying to figure out if they are important because my bimini canvas was torn to shreds and perhaps its additional support that would've helped prevent. Picture attached to this post. Anyone have these and if so are they connected to anything?

Other items we are trying to tackle right now:

1. Replacing port trim tab actuator due to gasket coming apart
2. Water keeps entering main bilge below house/engine batteries while under way. We could not replicate during sea trial unfortunately.
3. Both rudder seals are leaking. Hoping to get the “new and improved” design
4. 16k btu ac under salon tv alternates between ‘hp’ error, a low temperature such as 30, and sometimes does not turn off
5. Ice maker does not make ice, keeps spitting out hot water
6. There is a sewage smell in the boat that is apparent especially when its hot outside. Seems to be coming from bilge. I noticed a bolt on the macerator snapped
7. Guest head toilet keeps spraying back when flushed
8. Bow railing loose in multiple spots, especially on port side.
9. Fixing the exhaust hose on the port engine as it is allowing water to collect, causing it to sag

i have another list of items but didn't want to overwhelm them. On my priority upgrades i want to change the salt water wash down pump to fresh water and install a wifi antenna on the mast.

there will always be another boat, look for it.