Beneteau Swift Trawler 44

[rclarke246]

I have those same fittings on my Bimini frame, too. No clue why they are there.
Luckily, I don’t have any similar problems. I have always used Odorless chemical with every pump out. No sewerage smell, ever.

High HP (head pressure) can be from:1) restricted supply duct 2)obstruction in water flow or 3) short connection at HP switch on top of unit.

 

[boater3]

I have those same fittings on my Bimini frame, too. No clue why they are there.
Luckily, I don’t have any similar problems. I have always used Odorless chemical with every pump out. No sewerage smell, ever.

High HP (head pressure) can be from:1) restricted supply duct 2)obstruction in water flow or 3) short connection at HP switch on top of unit.

Ha so weird. I am looking at more pictures of ST 44's and notice they have them and are not in use as well. I see some that have the full enclosure have an additional support towards the front of the windshield.

For the sewage smell, I am hoping it is as simple as the macerator pump bolts snapped and is letting some odor through since the pump head is not 100% secured. I noticed the smell around the same time I noticed the snapped bolt. Other thoughts are waste or water clogging the vent line or an issue with the guest toilet/discharge hose. I use additives in my holding tank as well. Since I doubt I will ever discharge overboard, my plan is once it is fixed to run Raritan's CP cleaner through the lines/pump, and unplug it. I am curious though - what keeps raw water from coming into the holding tank when the seacock is opened to discharge? I am guessing / hoping there is a one way valve?

Regarding the HP error, that is what I surmised as the possible causes. The prior owner had similar issues on and off with this unit. I think at one point it was recharged. The raw water hoses look a little dirty but not clogged and the water exiting the boat looks fine. I am planning to do barnacle buster at some point. I cleaned all the air filters so don't think its a restricted air supply (and there is no duct on this unit, it just pulls air through the slots in the cabinet door). Dometic who is very helpful in trouble shooting said they bet its a lose connection on the HP switch and gave me troubleshooting steps but since its intermittent and I am at the dealer and under warranty, I figure I will let them take a look. I also forgot to mention the electrical interference noise when the mini sump pump kicks on. I dont hear it in the staterooms because the units are buried under the beds but I have a feeling a guest sleeping in the salon might be awoken by the buzzing sound when it kicks on. I dont know if there is any fix.

 

[rclarke246]

The buzzing sound could be in your condensate pump unit or switch. It has been an issue on 2 of my units. Only hear it when things are quiet, but it will drive you crazy! Replace it with Aspen Maxi-Orange pump or the yellow Refco Sahara, which was my original equipment. I like the Aspen better, I think.

 

[boater3]

The buzzing sound could be in your condensate pump unit or switch. It has been an issue on 2 of my units. Only hear it when things are quiet, but it will drive you crazy! Replace it with Aspen Maxi-Orange pump or the yellow Refco Sahara, which was my original equipment. I like the Aspen better, I think.

its definitely the condensate pump or switch. i wonder what makes the aspen maxi-orange different from the mini-orange that it fixes the issue. I will email them to find out! Why did you change from the Refco in the first place?

 

[SOJOURN4]

MYSTERY -
1. I have the same fittings but with a pipe receiver. I saw a pic of an ST44 that had the bimini hard piped to the side rails - Thinking about doing that but don't want the system too rigid.
2. No issue with sewer smell
3. HVAC has a HP error during heat cycle. I am going to chemically treat the system. (supply, return and coils)
4. Condensate Pump - On our ST 34 had mini pumps that made a whining sound. 1 was replaced by Beneteau which was different that the factory pump - no issues after.
5. Water in bilge - did you check the fitting for the ice maker? Did your rudder seals leak? If so, the ST design is to have ALL water intrusion migrate to the keel bilge. Does this happen when the fresh water pump is on? Can you hear the fresh water pump cycle when all valves are closed? Did you check the shower sump when it is running? Did you run water in the sinks and shower drains while checking the keel bilge? I think the manual bilge Gulper pump and shower sump Gulper pump are interconnected and might be a back flow issue.

As a side note, I installed a bilge switch in the keel to activate the manual bilge switch before the auto bilge kicks in.

Good luck

 

[boater3]

MYSTERY -
1. I have the same fittings but with a pipe receiver. I saw a pic of an ST44 that had the bimini hard piped to the side rails - Thinking about doing that but don't want the system too rigid.
2. No issue with sewer smell
3. HVAC has a HP error during heat cycle. I am going to chemically treat the system. (supply, return and coils)
4. Condensate Pump - On our ST 34 had mini pumps that made a whining sound. 1 was replaced by Beneteau which was different that the factory pump - no issues after.
5. Water in bilge - did you check the fitting for the ice maker? Did your rudder seals leak? If so, the ST design is to have ALL water intrusion migrate to the keel bilge. Does this happen when the fresh water pump is on? Can you hear the fresh water pump cycle when all valves are closed? Did you check the shower sump when it is running? Did you run water in the sinks and shower drains while checking the keel bilge? I think the manual bilge Gulper pump and shower sump Gulper pump are interconnected and might be a back flow issue.

As a side note, I installed a bilge switch in the keel to activate the manual bilge switch before the auto bilge kicks in.

Good luck

Thanks for the info

What are you using to chemically treat the supply, return, and coils?

What model condensate pump did they install?

The ice maker is broken and I turned off the supply line for it. The freshwater pump was on but wondering if running and bouncing around is causing something to leak related to it. The rudder seals are leaking but very little, doubt it could amount to the water I am seeing. Can't be the shower sump because I could be using the boat at the dock for weeks and the water level doesn't rise but when I am under way (not using the showers) it rises. Made me think its the rudder seal or related to drip-less shaft. I don't think the bilge hoses are connected when I checked. I have three hoses - one for the manually activated, one for the high water, and one for the hand pump.

What switch did you add to activate the manually activated one automatically?

Thanks again!

 

[rclarke246]

I chose the Maxi Orange condensate pumps because they are more powerful than the mini.

The bilge water could be condensate water from one of the A/Cs. Shut one down at a time to see if the water stops. I had some cracked drip pans which caused water to appear in my bilge. Or, disconnect the condensate hoses where they dump into the manifold, above the sump, and place them in individual cups to assure that they are each pumping/draining properly.

Also, I had a few weeping Oketer (sp?) clamps on fresh water lines, too. Bought a crimp tool and snugged them up.

So difficult to achieve a totally dry bilge, but I keep trying.

 

[boater3]

Thanks for the info

What are you using to chemically treat the supply, return, and coils?

What model condensate pump did they install?

The ice maker is broken and I turned off the supply line for it. The freshwater pump was on but wondering if running and bouncing around is causing something to leak related to it. The rudder seals are leaking but very little, doubt it could amount to the water I am seeing. Can't be the shower sump because I could be using the boat at the dock for weeks and the water level doesn't rise but when I am under way (not using the showers) it rises. Made me think its the rudder seal or related to drip-less shaft. I don't think the bilge hoses are connected when I checked. I have three hoses - one for the manually activated, one for the high water, and one for the hand pump.

What switch did you add to activate the manually activated one automatically?

Thanks again!

I stand corrected - you are right - the shower sump discharge and bilge pump share an outlet...

 

[rclarke246]

I have seen some water accumulate in the locker below the bow thruster. It must be rainwater but I'm uncertain, anyway, this water will drain aft to the main bilge when underway.

Another place where I get water is on the floor between the fuel tanks. Pretty sure that this is from a cracked A/C drain pan or a malfunction with the condensate pump on the unit in the 2nd stateroom. this water drains aft, as well.

 

[boater3]

I have seen some water accumulate in the locker below the bow thruster. It must be rainwater but I'm uncertain, anyway, this water will drain aft to the main bilge when underway.

Another place where I get water is on the floor between the fuel tanks. Pretty sure that this is from a cracked A/C drain pan or a malfunction with the condensate pump on the unit in the 2nd stateroom. this water drains aft, as well.

Thanks we just got a major rain storm so I am going to go into the bow locker now and check!

I am noticing some water right in front of the hot water heater. Small amount though and I dont even see a path for it to drain anywhere.

Another question: has anyone converted their salt water wash down to fresh water?

 

[rclarke246]

Check all of the fresh water connections in that area. I found a few clamps (Okieter Brand) that weren’t tight.
There should be several 3/8” holes in the Gelcoat floor, centerline, that allows water to drain aft.

 

[OldDan1943]

Thanks we just got a major rain storm so I am going to go into the bow locker now and check!

I am noticing some water right in front of the hot water heater. Small amount though and I dont even see a path for it to drain anywhere.

Another question: has anyone converted their salt water wash down to fresh water?

Consider re-caulking the bow pulpit.

Converting the wash down? Add a second one. If you value it correctly, you can have service forward have service forward to wash down or fill the water tanks.

 

[boater3]

Check all of the fresh water connections in that area. I found a few clamps (Okieter Brand) that weren’t tight.
There should be several 3/8” holes in the Gelcoat floor, centerline, that allows water to drain aft.

Thanks. I checked the bow compartments under the bed, dry as a bone, and it down poured this morning. I tightened the clamps in the compartment where the water heater is. Most were pretty tight. I will keep an eye but the amount of water was small in front of the water heater (and I checked for drainage to the main bilge and there are no holes, so it would've had to over flow and the water height in that area was never high). I ran the bilge pump and the shower sump pump and did not note any water coming back to the bilge. We probably took a few dozen showers and I was checking the bilge and the water level has never risen while at the dock, only under way.

I took the liberty of smelling the sump and it does not smell weird. Pretty sure the main smell is form the waste. I did notice a different smell after taking out the floor boards above the water heater though. I wonder if the water heater gives off a smell.

 

[SOJOURN4]

Have you checked the HW bilge area when the HW heater is on?
Could be pressure relief valve.
Maybe check with a HW faucet on

 

[SOJOURN4]

Barnacle buster

 

[boater3]

Quick question - anyone know what size propellers the ST44 has? I know four blade but have a diver asking what size so I can try to get one back on in time for a two week cruise that we were hoping to leave for this weekend... thank you!!

edit: someone sent me Fixed 4 Blade, Manganese Bronze, 24”

thanks!

 

[OldDan1943]

Quick question - anyone know what size propellers the ST44 has? I know four blade but have a diver asking what size so I can try to get one back on in time for a two week cruise that we were hoping to leave for this weekend... thank you!!

It should be in your on board docs.
If not, call the manufacturer.

 

[boater3]

Yet another question for ST44 owners!

I want to install a WiFi/cellular antenna on the mast. I want to have the unit behind the salon TV. What is the best cabling route / how would one run a cable from the mast to there?

It seems most of the wires from the mast end up in either corner of the engine room near the electrical panel. From the engine room to behind the TV is easy so really just need to get into the engine room if I can't get directly behind the TV. Radar was not factory installed but it has a conduit (With no available room left) but trying to figure out if that conduit was installed at the factory and they just inserted the radar wires into it or if the original dealer actually installed the conduit.

Are there any access points anywhere besides the access hole at the base of the mast and where the wires come out in the engine room?

Thank you!

 

[rclarke246]

I was able to run a water alarm from the bilge to the upper helm. The access points were:
1) speaker hole, starboard side, near radio
2) cut access hole in locker aft of upper refrigerator
3) pretty sure you can run wire from mast base access over to these starboard access points and then down.
4) also, some small access points can be gained via removing the small LED’s

Hope this helps.

 

[boater3]

I was able to run a water alarm from the bilge to the upper helm. The access points were:
1) speaker hole, starboard side, near radio
2) cut access hole in locker aft of upper refrigerator
3) pretty sure you can run wire from mast base access over to these starboard access points and then down.
4) also, some small access points can be gained via removing the small LED’s

Hope this helps.

Thank you that is helpful and I was thinking some access could be gained around the speakers. Unfortunately I was hoping for a port-side route. Reason being is because every foot of additional antenna wire is a significant loss of signal at the length I need to go. I calculated ~35-40 feet for a port route from mast, to engine room, up behind salon TV. Going to the starboard side may be another 10-15+ feet.

The LED lights you are talking about are the ones in the salon or cockpit or where?

Someone was thinking the whole salon cieling should drop down but I don't know about that...

Once I get this figured out, I have to remember to leave string because I do want to add fire/smoke/high water alarms to the upper helm... was thinking there would be a separate route from the upper helm to lower helm but had not yet explored and from what you are saying sounds like there is not...

 

[SOJOURN4]

A few questions answered

1) Fittings on Bimini top - Purchased a 6' SS 1" tube and a few fittings. Installed at the stern section of the top to the flybridge rails. This way I don't need any help in dropping the top. Folds up towards to mast and allows the use of the bimini girdle.

2) Access from flybridge to bilge - Behind the fringe is a raceway to the starboard bilge. If you look you will see other wires and the hot/cold supply lines to the fly sink. I think you will need to remove the face panel and recaulk. I am thinking about installing a pie plate behind the fridge which will eliminate the need to recaulk. Should be a clean shot to the pie plate at the mast. Also there is a port side raceway for the 12v supply lines to the mast winch.

3) As a side note, behind the stereo is a raceway to the bilge near the 12 volt breaker bar.

That's all...........

 

[boater3]

1) Fittings on Bimini top - Purchased a 6' SS 1" tube and a few fittings. Installed at the stern section of the top to the flybridge rails. This way I don't need any help in dropping the top. Folds up towards to mast and allows the use of the bimini girdle.

2) Access from flybridge to bilge - Behind the fringe is a raceway to the starboard bilge. If you look you will see other wires and the hot/cold supply lines to the fly sink. I think you will need to remove the face panel and recaulk. I am thinking about installing a pie plate behind the fridge which will eliminate the need to recaulk. Should be a clean shot to the pie plate at the mast. Also there is a port side raceway for the 12v supply lines to the mast winch.

3) As a side note, behind the stereo is a raceway to the bilge near the 12 volt breaker bar.

That's all...........

Thank you for the info

Any chance you have pictures of your bimini modification?

I am thinking of starting a Wiki for the ST44 that would focus on upgrades, tweaks, known issues, etc

 

[boater3]

Anyone know what size/type wiper blades are on the ST44? I am out on a trip and looks like one has fallen apart. I need to order online to a marina I am going to be at this week. Hoping Amazon has something.. When I measured I got between 19 and 20" so isn't clear which size. Thank you!

 

[Roidagobert]

Thank you for the info

Any chance you have pictures of your bimini modification?

I am thinking of starting a Wiki for the ST44 that would focus on upgrades, tweaks, known issues, etc

Interested in pics/drawins of bimini top mods.

The ST44 Wiki is a great idea!

 

[Florence]

Buongarne (Sp?) We are just going cruising for the weekend. Will dig some info out next week .Ciao!

 

[SOJOURN4]

Bimini top and wiper blades

Bimini Top - See attached. 1" SS tube and fittings. Quick release pins were used

Wiper Blades - Got replacement at local auto store (16-200???) no issues

 

[Florence]

Buongarne (Sp?) We are just going cruising for the weekend. Will dig some info out next week .Ciao!

Update. I do have a Word Document and some photos. However, with my limited IT skills I cannot see how to post them on this link. I think that I should be able to send them by email if you could let me have your address.

 

[boater3]

Bimini Top - See attached. 1" SS tube and fittings. Quick release pins were used

Wiper Blades - Got replacement at local auto store (16-200???) no issues

Pictures unfortunately did not come through

 

[boater3]

Does anyone have spider cracks and fading in the gelcoat?

I have several areas of spider cracks:
- bow on both sides
- both bow cleats
- port side mid-ship cleat
- area between mid-ship and bow both side
- around the air vents/inlets both sides

I have gelcoat fading which is worst on the port side, mid-ship. A pro compounded, waxed, and could not get the fading/spots to go away. I had a couple people look at it and said its an issue with the gel coat.

What is interesting about the spider cracks are they seem to be on both sides in the same spots for the most part which means they are likely an issue from the mold/manufacturing process and would be on other hulls produced.

Has anyone had success in getting Beneteau to cover such repairs?

Since there are several areas and they are not tiny, I think they would have to be ground out and the whole boat gelcoat redone?

 

[BandB]

Does anyone have spider cracks and fading in the gelcoat?

I have several areas of spider cracks:
- bow on both sides
- both bow cleats
- port side mid-ship cleat
- area between mid-ship and bow both side
- around the air vents/inlets both sides

I have gelcoat fading which is worst on the port side, mid-ship. A pro compounded, waxed, and could not get the fading/spots to go away. I had a couple people look at it and said its an issue with the gel coat.

What is interesting about the spider cracks are they seem to be on both sides in the same spots for the most part which means they are likely an issue from the mold/manufacturing process and would be on other hulls produced.

Has anyone had success in getting Beneteau to cover such repairs?

Since there are several areas and they are not tiny, I think they would have to be ground out and the whole boat gelcoat redone?

I forget the age of your boat and where it was built. I suspect from the spidering it was a French built boat as I've seen it far more on British and French boats. Sunseeker was notorious for it until the last few years and no way to know if they'll develop the problem. Some owners ignored it, some chased it constantly with gelcoat, and some got frustrated and painted the boat.

The reason I heard given for the issue was the temperature and humidity during the original build. Was understandable excuse in the UK, but still just an excuse.

Never hurts to ask or insist, but I've never known a builder to cover these issues on a boat more than a couple of years old and typically the issues have become significant on a 7 or 8 year old boat.