Beneteau Swift Trawler 44

[sunchaser]

Thanks. That is all figured out the problem right now is figuring out what to do with water that can't be drained from the water tanks and the connection between the tanks and the water pump.

Assuming water line exits tank from bottom tap - Disconnect line exiting tank, let tank drain. Unless your B has an oddball tank design any remaining water should not pose a problem. Connect AF line to disconnected line.

Or, let the yard do it. A very long time ago I worked at a yard and winterized many different types of vessels, the yard manager had been winterizing vessels since the 30s. Same as 80 years later, drain tanks, AF system. This was on Long Island.

 

[boater3]

Assuming water line exits tank from bottom tap - Disconnect line exiting tank, let tank drain. Unless your B has an oddball tank design any remaining water should not pose a problem. Connect AF line to disconnected line.

Or, let the yard do it. A very long time ago I worked at a yard and winterized many different types of vessels, the yard manager had been winterizing vessels since the 30s. Same as 80 years later, drain tanks, AF system. This was on Long Island.

I know the general process. I am trying to figure out how to do it on the ST44 specifically. On most boats, things will drain out with gravity. Unfortunately, Beneteau does not do a good job of routing things on the ST44. I spent hours re-positioning fill hoses, vents, etc, so things would not get clogged. Just trying understand tips/tricks from ST44 owners on how they handle winterization of their freshwater tank and connection between it and the pump when the hose is not run at the correct angle so things drain with gravity.

If there is no easy way then I need to figure out if I can remove the red cover, drop a mini sump in, get as much remaining water out as possible, then probably connect a shop vac to the other end and hope it sucks out enough water sitting in the hoses/T connection.

I don't think a yard is going to have a magical solution. They count on gravity or access to these fittings to get things done...

 

[OldDan1943]

Mystery, Sunchaser, check into the "red pop". It gets into all the hidden corners etc and it wont kill you. Just remember to pump and flush all the lines and lines come spring.
IF someone has a subscription to Just Answers, I am assured the correct aka "commercial name" is there but, I am not about to join another site.
My boat is in south FL and have no need for the "red pop".

 

[boater3]

Mystery, Sunchaser, check into the "red pop". It gets into all the hidden corners etc and it wont kill you. Just remember to pump and flush all the lines and lines come spring.
IF someone has a subscription to Just Answers, I am assured the correct aka "commercial name" is there but, I am not about to join another site.
My boat is in south FL and have no need for the "red pop".

red pop aka antifreeze aka pink stuff will not solve my problem that there is an inaccessible capacity i cannot tap into in the tanks... i cannot be certain how much but there is at least a few inches of water i cannot drain in 2x80-90 gallon tanks... that makes me think i would need a TON of antifreeze to 1) dillute any remaining water, 2) make it so there is enough covering the inaccessible capacity so i can actually pump through. I'd rather not dump what may be 20-40+ gallons into the tanks. It will also be a bitch to get it out if there is an inaccessible capacity, probably would need to flush a dozen times and that would take days.

 

[boater3]

I have a creative thought... If I can somehow add weight to the bow, that may allow the water to level off and drain from the tanks. Right now the connection is at the front of the tank and if the bow is inclined any degrees, the water will not be level, have a natural tendency to sit towards the back half of the tank, and the drain in the front sits dry. Instead of inviting a bunch of people over to stand on the bow, I wonder if I can buy a cheap bag and fill with water on the bow, once done, empty, and stow for next year.

 

[OldDan1943]

red pop aka antifreeze aka pink stuff will not solve my problem that there is an inaccessible capacity i cannot tap into in the tanks... i cannot be certain how much but there is at least a few inches of water i cannot drain in 2x80-90 gallon tanks...

You do not have a fresh water tank drains?
What happens if you get foul water into your water tanks?
Perhaps a close visual inspection of the bottom of each tank ..... you will discover a drain.

 

[boater3]

You do not have a fresh water tank drains?
What happens if you get foul water into your water tanks?
Perhaps a close visual inspection of the bottom of each tank ..... you will discover a drain.

There is no way to access the bottoms of the tanks that I can see. I sanitize the water tanks with bleach. I guess most ST44 owners are lucky to be in warmer climates that do not require winterization!

 

[OldDan1943]

I have a creative thought... If I can somehow add weight to the bow, that may allow the water to level off and drain from the tanks. Right now the connection is at the front of the tank and if the bow is inclined any degrees, the water will not be level, have a natural tendency to sit towards the back half of the tank, and the drain in the front sits dry. Instead of inviting a bunch of people over to stand on the bow, I wonder if I can buy a cheap bag and fill with water on the bow, once done, empty, and stow for next year.

Put the beer keg at the leading edge of the bow along with the snack trays. Between the weight of the beer keg and the folks huddled around the keg, that should lower the bow considerably. LOL

 

[boater3]

Put the beer keg at the leading edge of the bow along with the snack trays. Between the weight of the beer keg and the folks huddled around the keg, that should lower the bow considerably. LOL

hahaha not a bad idea

i may just go out and buy plastic storage bins and see if that will do the trick

50 gallon bin * 8+ pounds per gallon = 400+ pounds

can drop a sump in to drain

cheap enough I can throw away

 

[sunchaser]

Mystery
How much water is left in tank when you run it to "dry" with water taps open?

 

[boater3]

Mystery
How much water is left in tank when you run it to "dry" with water taps open?

Hard to estimate but not a ton in there at this point. It is difficult figuring out how much is in there so if I do opt to dump antifreeze in, its not diluted by the remaining water.

 

[boater3]

Alright so my idea about adding ballast to the bow to try to get water out of the freshwater tanks did not work, at least with 1200+ pounds of ballast. I am now back to square one...

 

[Bacchus]

Can you access the area you photographed with the T and pump inlet?

 

[AusCan]

I’m a bit out of practice for winterizing, but I wouldn’t expect a water tank with a bit of water in it to be a problem if it freezes as long as there is room for expansion.
With the hoses, can’t you just disconnect that blue hose below the tee at and drain them both.

 

[boater3]

Can you access the area you photographed with the T and pump inlet?

No. There is a generator in between and a very small compartment. I tried reaching and could touch the back of the generator but its mounted on a wall about another 6-12" further. My arms are not long enough not too mention I need to be able to use a tool and physically separate the hose from the fitting...

I’m a bit out of practice for winterizing, but I wouldn’t expect a water tank with a bit of water in it to be a problem if it freezes as long as there is room for expansion.
With the hoses, can’t you just disconnect that blue hose below the tee at and drain them both.

Issue is not water in the tank but water in the metal T connection and blue hose that I am worried about freezing and breaking.

 

[SOJOURN4]

Open the access port(s) and shop vac the water out
Add a few gallons of AF and should be good.

I am on my 4th winterization and no issues this far

 

[boater3]

Open the access port(s) and shop vac the water out
Add a few gallons of AF and should be good.

I am on my 4th winterization and no issues this far

Thank you. Will be awesome if its just a few gallons of AF. I just ordered a drum bung wrench to try to get the red access port open. I will endeavor to vacuum / pump out the remaining water, add antifreeze to both tanks until it starts pumping out one of the fixtures, then disconnect, blow out with air via shore connection, bypass the hot water heater, drain it, then pump antifreeze through at the freshwater pump through all the fixtures.

 

[boater3]

For those that have had warranty work... have you had an issue where Beneteau has only approved a fraction of the dealer's claim of labor / materials? I would think this is between Beneteau and the Beneteau dealer but its falling in my lap with the dealer saying I will have to pay for most of the work. Beneteau replies with things like "job can be done in less time" or "job can be combined with other work" and the dealer insists that it cannot. On past boats and vehicles, I have never been asked to pay for warranty work so this is alarming.

 

[rclarke246]

I have heard that Beneteau pays it's dealers $65 / hr. for warranty work. If this is true I guess you cannot expect a class A mechanic at that rate.

 

[boater3]

ST44 owners, another winterization question... making progress...

Seems neither the Sea Flush kit (Will it fit my boat?) nor the Flush caps (https://trac-online.com/product/trac-flushcaps) are compatible with the Vetus 1320 strainers (https://www.vetus.com/en/engines-an...ng-water-system/filtr-siatkowy-wody-5493.html)

What do you guys do for winterizing? It looks like the Sea Flush shop vac attachment should fit in to blow out the hose from the strainer to thru-hull but I need to figure out a way to introduce antifreeze that won't make a mess everywhere... I was hoping for a solution that would allow the antifreeze to draw from a 5 gallon bucket via a hose... bummer the Sea Flush funnel does not fit.

Thank you!

 

[Bacchus]

ST44 owners, another winterization question... making progress...

What do you guys do for winterizing? It looks like the Sea Flush shop vac attachment should fit in to blow out the hose from the strainer to thru-hull but I need to figure out a way to introduce antifreeze that won't make a mess everywhere... I was hoping for a solution that would allow the antifreeze to draw from a 5 gallon bucket via a hose... bummer the Sea Flush funnel does not fit.
Thank you!

Here's what I use on strainers... some will self prime and pull right out of a gal jug others a fill a larger container and place it above to get some head press. to prime. It's just a rubber stopper (bung) w/ a hole I insert a barb to NPT fitting into to attach the hose

 

[boater3]

Here's what I use on strainers... some will self prime and pull right out of a gal jug others a fill a larger container and place it above to get some head press. to prime. It's just a rubber stopper (bung) w/ a hole I insert a barb to NPT fitting into to attach the hose

It would be ideal to have a fitting like that in the strainer but my strainer lids are huge. See pictures attached. That is why neither the Sea Flush nor Trac Flush caps fit. Can you recommend a rubber stopper/bung that might fit?? Thank you

 

[OldDan1943]

It would be ideal to have a fitting like that in the strainer but my strainer lids are huge. See pictures attached. That is why neither the Sea Flush nor Trac Flush caps fit. Can you recommend a rubber stopper/bung that might fit?? Thank you

IF you can find a spare top, drill it out to fit what ever adapter you wish to use.

 

[Bacchus]

It would be ideal to have a fitting like that in the strainer but my strainer lids are huge. See pictures attached. That is why neither the Sea Flush nor Trac Flush caps fit. Can you recommend a rubber stopper/bung that might fit?? Thank you

How does your lid attach? side view photo?

Do you have room to seal around OD w/ a Fernco fitting?
They come in many sizes and are flexible you could use many things for the blank end - PVC pipe reducer or plug drilled and a hose attached.

Or look for a pipe test plug - used for pressure testing - this one is in NZ - couldn't find one locally quickly??

 

[boater3]

IF you can find a spare top, drill it out to fit what ever adapter you wish to use.

Excellent idea! I found one left in-stock. Not cheap at $50 and change so will want to make sure I don't mess it up. Any ideas on what fitting to buy and how to install onto this lid? I am guessing drill out the proper size hole, insert fitting, glue into place? Thank you!

 

[boater3]

How does your lid attach? side view photo?

Do you have room to seal around OD w/ a Fernco fitting?
They come in many sizes and are flexible you could use many things for the blank end - PVC pipe reducer or plug drilled and a hose attached.

Or look for a pipe test plug - used for pressure testing - this one is in NZ - couldn't find one locally quickly??

I like all of this creative thinking! Picture attached of what the strainer looks like...

One of the strainers is partially under the salon floor so I don't have unlimited height. I would have to see if a PVC reducer would have enough room to reduce to the right fitting size for a hose into bucket...

 

[Bacchus]

Excellent idea! I found one left in-stock. Not cheap at $50 and change so will want to make sure I don't mess it up. Any ideas on what fitting to buy and how to install onto this lid? I am guessing drill out the proper size hole, insert fitting, glue into place? Thank you!

If cap is thin I would drill and use a bulkhead ftg.
Supported on both sides and less likely to break out than glue in.

Before you buy a spare cap why not try a flat plate w/ rubber sheet on one side drilled & bulkhead ftg installed.
W/ low clearance use an elbow for horiz hose connection vs vertical -
All you nbeed is enough pressure to get a seal - the pump should provide the suction. Not quite as handy as an attached one but quick & dirty.

Other similar choice is the Fernco cap - then drill / cut a hole for a bulkhead ftg to hose

 

[OldDan1943]

Remember, whatever you use, it should not be left in place durning normal operation.

 

[Bacchus]

Mystery
If other approaches don't look attractive the other way to handle this is to use a T in the discharge side of the strainer - hose to pump on the outlet and a cap on the other - remove cap attach fitting w/ hose and insert into pink.
Similar to the winterization ftg kits you can purchase.

 

[boater3]

Thanks all, I haven't done the engines yet. Engine room has been 40-50 degrees and I might move the boat to a yard for some winter work. I landed on two options: just pour AF into the sea strainers or pull off the 1.5" hose, use a connector, add some additional length of hose and put into a bucket.

Another item I am trying to figure out is interference (humming) on my VHF when transmitting. I've narrowed it down to only happening when the inverter is on. I have also ruled out the antenna, wire to the antenna, and path the wire to the antenna takes. Do any other ST44 owners with the factory Mastervolt 2000W inverter have the same issue?

Thanks! Love Trawler Forum and plan to put together a big Wiki with all the tips/tricks/fixes/upgrades for the ST44.