Boat Condensation

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Pieyed47

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Has anyone with a fiberglass boat figured out a good way to prevent the condensation from forming on the inside of the boat in cold weather?
Thanks JD
 
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We have two small Caframo heaters set to turn on when temp is down to ~mid forties, and a fairly large dehumidifier, going in our boat in Poulsbo WA through the winter months. When underway summers in BC and SE Alaska in cool weather, a Heatercraft "bus heater" or an Espar diesel heater do the job.
 
We use several Davis Air Dryrs (sic) and a couple of space heaters set quite low. I not only want to keep moisture at bay, but want to keep the boat from getting too cold. This is our first "winter" in the water and, so far, so good.

We picked up the big Air Dryers online for much below retail...its worth looking around if you go that route.
 
It is the reason dehumidifiers are manufactured and sold.
 
Heat and air flow. Helps to minimize those activities that add moisture, like boiling spaghetti water.
 
We use a de-humidifier, but before that...are there any sources of moisture inside the boat that can be adddressed? Wet bilge?



A (relatively) warm, wet bilge can present quite a large water surface area, and all of that is evaporating into your air. Then, that humidity goes looking for the nearest cold surface where it can condense, in this case it will be the inside surfaces of your fiberglass hull that are exposed to cold outside air.
 
The Davis Air-Dryrs are just little electric heaters, they do not actually remove moisture from the boat, rather they raise the dewpoint of the air so that the air can hold more moisture. This approach won't work for Pieyed47 because as soon as that moisture-laden air touches a cold surface it will condense again.
 
The Davis Air-Dryrs are just little electric heaters, they do not actually remove moisture from the boat, rather they raise the dewpoint of the air so that the air can hold more moisture. This approach won't work for Pieyed47 because as soon as that moisture-laden air touches a cold surface it will condense again.

Riveguy describes my problem better than I did. ( Pieyed47 because as soon as that moisture-laden air touches a cold surface it will condense again.) has anyone solved this problem? Thanks JD
 
Riveguy describes my problem better than I did. ( Pieyed47 because as soon as that moisture-laden air touches a cold surface it will condense again.) has anyone solved this problem? Thanks JD

Limit the production of water; as in, don't live on the boat in the winter, dry the bilge, and limit rain/snow entry.

Run dehumidifiers. But, they want mid 40's or greater temperature. They do add heat as well as removing water.

Insulate the hull. Inside or out. That can take a lot of effort.

Ventilate a lot. But, that usually means the inside of the boat is at ambient temperature. Might be a problem!
 
Winter liveaboard, comfortably in Toronto since 1994 (some winters in Bahamas)...... Ventilation, insulation.
 

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#1) I have never had my girl in Snow.

That said, I do get condensation inside the boat. I was having a real problem with mildew on my sheets along the hull liner. Finally I found a solution.

FoamInsulationPieces.jpg


These were found inside one of those seat cushions that used to be legal in our dinghies. I have found the same stuff (plastic-y foam that bends and is not brittle) atop my solar panels. It is 1/4" thick

I have lined my hull inside all lockers. I also use it under and up the sides where my mattress touched the hull liner. Now, zero mildew through a few years. This stuff works at least in mild weather.

The coldest I've been aboard at anchor was 15 degrees during a cold snap in Georgia. Otherwise, into the 20's in north Florida. Both were pretty miserable -- and I heated with propane at that time (using a catalytic heater)

Anyway, good luck Cap'n JD
 
Consider a good size dehumidifier...like a Danby or similar that has a 30 pint capacity ideally with the feature that lets you run a drain hose into your sink....about $200 and worth every penny.

No mold or condensation, dry bedding and all around comfort.

Also, get a hygrometer (cheap) to monitor humidity levels. research appropriate healthy humidity levels on the web.

Don’t bother with the cheap one pint units. You want the real deal.

Good luck!
 
I run a dehumidifier on mine. Domestic one from the Lowe's home store. About $200, it works wonders. Pees in the aircon sump.
 
Has anyone with a fiberglass boat figured out a good way to prevent the condensation from forming on the inside of the boat in cold weather?
Thanks JD

Buy a real household style dehumidifier.

Set it at 55% and you will never again get condensation.

I have two on my boat and love them. The boat is dry. It feels dry. after sealing up theengine compartment fpr the winter I put one there as well, and thedifference is remarkable!
 
I've run a dehumidifier on the boat in winter storage 24/7 in a wet climate (PNW). No moisture, no mold, everything smells great in the spring.

But I just wonder why - since this problem is pervasive in both the NW and the SE and even most of the E - doesn't someone solve it? Which is why I started this thread. I'm closing in on doing this.
 
No matter what you do , when you dump a gallon of pasta cooking water in the sink, the windows will fog.

The real question is how do you setup so the dripping water doesn't do harm , and condensation not freeze under your mattress?


Heat and fresh air.
 
You have to pick between the "ventilate thoroughly and heat" and "dehumidify" options. You can't do both: if you are using a dehumidifier, the boat has to be sealed pretty tightly or you'll be trying to dehumidify the greater cruising area. Which works best depends on the boat, the owner, and the local weather. In sunny and low humidity California ventilation works great. In the SE you are running your air conditioner 24/7 anyway so there isn't a problem. In the humid NE and NW, ventilation works to an extent, if you don't mind the interior of the boat being at 50 degrees. Heating works, but not very well - you end up with 72 deg air at 70% humidity. Hard to keep all the exterior cold surfaces from condensing, and the air feels a bit like a tropical jungle without the breeze.

A dehumidifier is the only thing I've found that works well in a cool humid climate. You can cook a big pot of pasta, it will fog the windows near the galley for a short while, then it all gets taken out again. Reducing the humidity from 70% to 55% makes it much more comfortable as well.
 
A small dehumidifier works well in an enclosed area. Have had one 24/7 on my smaller boat and makes a HUGE difference. A lot of AC units have a dehumidifying option.

The Trawler just keeps moving and condensation is not an issue.
 
We ventilate and heat (electric) and run a humidifier because it is too dry inside.
 

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Breathing, cooking and showering all adds water to the air. You either have to dehumidify or change the air. If you use a combustion stove (wood, oil) you change the air and provide heat. Propane use creates moisture as a byproduct.
Added insulation makes a huge difference in heating needs. Most boats are poorly insulated and not insulated for a northern winter.
Currently my boat, running a pellet stove, is 38% rh inside and 84% rh outside.
 
Has anyone with a fiberglass boat figured out a good way to prevent the condensation from forming on the inside of the boat in cold weather?
Thanks JD


Yes, move south!!! Not a problem in Corpus Christi.
 
Liveaboard 12 miles west of Toronto and shrink wrapped.
We just bought a humidifier cause' it was too dry. It's been running since last night and we finally got it up to 55% tonight.
 
I put several Damp Rids throughout boat to suck up moisture. If you do use a dehumidifier be careful that doesn't freeze in your unit. Same goes for your sump.
 
"pretty miserable -- and I heated with propane at that time (using a catalytic heater)"

Propane will create 1.2 pounds of water for every 1 pound of propane burned.

No one would burn oil, wood or coal with out a smoke pipe to vent yet small heater mfg just tell the user to crack open a window?
 
Yes. Always keep air moving around the boat and in winter add a thermostat heater that will shut off automatically if it is tipped over. We always have fans at both ends; one operates all the time. We've used this process on all our boats (with different styles of usages over the years) and never had a moisture problem. It is a simply solution that works well. There is also an inexpensive moisture absorption product at the Dollar store that several people have talked about being really good.
 
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