Bomar hatch problem?
- Thread starter SIBERNUT
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Greg QS
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The boamar hatches are and acrylic (plastic) glass. The cracking called crazing, is ugly but not impeding failure. I'm sure there is some weakness there but they are fairly safe. Maybe avoid walking on it.
Greg QS
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Boamar is still around start there. It took a long time for what you are seeing to happen. I am replacing my wing doors on my boat to the companion ways. The glass was crazed. Still fully functional , just looked bad. I purchased smoked lexan and am in the process of making new doors.
JustCruisin
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I have Hood hatches (now owned by Pompanette) on my boat and the aft one is all crazed up, probably from being stepped on. It is acrylic. I asked at a local glass shop if they could replace it and they said no...replace the lid. Very expensive for what it is. So I just live with it...been that way for years with no issues or leaks.
rslifkin
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The lens on my Bomar foredeck hatch has been crazed for as long as I can remember (and I've known the boat since long before I owned it). It's never gotten worse that I can tell and doesn't seem to be failing (although it's probably not as strong as when new). Personally, I always take a "don't step on hatches" rule unless they're reinforced in a way where it's obviously okay to do.
SailorGreg
Senior Member
Select Plastics in CT replaces lenses. Not cheap but excellent work. A few years ago I replaced all the lenses (8) on my boat at that time. Bought the basic lenses from a custom plastics company and used Sikaflex sealant. Saved a lot of money but removing the old lenses and sealant was a lot of work. Probably a You Tube video these days. Happy with the result.
Iggy
Guru
Last year I replaced my 2001 Bomar hatch. It became a real problem!
I ordered a new lens and just the lens. I had to give them the serial number and go though a dealer. I got the new lens and it had two extra holes in it. They changed how they made them.
Called Bomar and it took two days to figure out what went wrong. They lost all the diagrams from 2005 and earlier. I was able to get my money back and they said to keep the lens.
I was going to plug the two holes and use this lens. Now the frame is aluminum so when I tried to take it apart, all the bolts were corroded after 20yrs and broke in the frame.
I ordered a whole new hatch. it was just easier to do it that way.
I ordered a new lens and just the lens. I had to give them the serial number and go though a dealer. I got the new lens and it had two extra holes in it. They changed how they made them.
Called Bomar and it took two days to figure out what went wrong. They lost all the diagrams from 2005 and earlier. I was able to get my money back and they said to keep the lens.
I was going to plug the two holes and use this lens. Now the frame is aluminum so when I tried to take it apart, all the bolts were corroded after 20yrs and broke in the frame.
I ordered a whole new hatch. it was just easier to do it that way.
Comodave
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I have replaced the acrylic on hatches before. There was a local plastic shop when we lived in Tucson. I took the old lens in and they used it as a pattern. Made a perfect copy. I made sure they used a UV resistant plastic. The only issue is what to bed it with. I first tried 5200 and it failed almost immediately. Don’t remember exactly what I ended up using but now I would use Sika 295UV. I used it to bed the venturi windshield on our last boat and it held up well.
If you use urethane windshield goop, it bonds the 2 together such that the windshield is considered to be a part of the structure on the car for safety standards. I am told it can also restore human life, repair a broken hymen and a broken heart too.
Comodave
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I have not tried any of those things…
True, but you must protect the urethane from uv exposure if you want it to last. There are companies that will custom make fritted replacements but can be a little expensive.
Hatch situation resolved
I have happened upon a newer Bomar hatch that needs a home. The whatever is not crazed, and it has ribs inside for strength if stepped on. How big a deal is it to change just the lid (same size, 20x20) ? Or the whole thing?
Or, i can have a 24x24 for same price. Wouldja do it? Also has ribs inside
I have happened upon a newer Bomar hatch that needs a home. The whatever is not crazed, and it has ribs inside for strength if stepped on. How big a deal is it to change just the lid (same size, 20x20) ? Or the whole thing?
Or, i can have a 24x24 for same price. Wouldja do it? Also has ribs inside
tiltrider1
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Replacing the whole unit with the same size is not a very big deal. Some screws and cutting through the old sealant. Take your time to prep the surface well before installing the new unit.
I think just trying to replace the lid sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.
I have no idea if going to a larger hatch is possible in your application.
I think just trying to replace the lid sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.
I have no idea if going to a larger hatch is possible in your application.
Iggy
Guru
Mine was the same size. I took off the plastic inside ring. From the out side removed all the screws and gently lifted it out. Its the sealant that may give you a hard time. I slowly lifted it up paint scrapers braking the seal. The whole thing took about 90 minutes.
Takoradi
Senior Member
Funny you mentioned your venturi. I’m have an aluminum U channel that mine fits in and I’min search of the vinyl or rubber U shaped piece that sits in the channel and holds the glass. Any source ideas? Can’t find it anywhere. Aluminum inside measurement is 8x18mm to hold 5mm polycarbonate venturi.
Adagio43
Veteran Member
Hatchmasters in Norwalk Connecticut ( hatchmasters.com) will rebuild them. They are not cheap, but they do great work. They rebuilt 2 hatches for my Nordic tug over the winter and I will reinstall them next month.
mdstrum
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I have re-done 4 lens on our bomar hatches, I remove old, take to plastic shop, they cut out a new from UV stable plastic of some sort and they I reseal it in place with sealant/adhesive, hardest part is clean out the frame for good seal on the new lense. I also use scuba weights to put pressure while it dries.
