"Break" Adhesive Bond Between Materials

[sum escape]

I have teak steps which are glued to the steel staircase frame. I need to remove a couple of them to access wiring for the step lights to replace a couple that burned out.

Tiara tells me they used either Teak Deck Caulking SIS440 or Seal Bond SB105 (5293050). I attached a couple photos showing the original assembly and the stairs as installed on our boat.

Any ideas on how I can "break" this bond to remove the stair step will be much appreciated. Thus far, after removing screws and striking it with a rubber mallet only proves how solidly it was installed... Perhaps there is a product I can squeeze in the screw holes that can start to penetrate and dissolve the adhesive? I don't want to start prying and break a stair.

Thanks.

 

[psneeld]

Get a thin piece of strong wire (or use a thin putty knife) and slowly heat the metal with a heat gun or carefully with a torch w/ air diffuser on it, while pulling the wire or pushing the scraper to break the bond.

Many marine adhesives like epoxy and polyurethane start to break down a around 300 degrees F.

 

[Bacchus]

Tom
I'd pose that question to Tiara to see how they would advise owners to do maint...
A friend had issues with his vac-u-flush system on his Tiara and when he asked Tiara how to access it they said it would require cutting a new hatch in the fiberglass floor and the teak & holley flooring. They would supply some teak & holley for the repair.
After looking it over with the help of a smaller & skinier mechanic we removed and relocated the whole system to a place where the hise runs were straighter and periodic maint removal req'd 2 screws.

In would be interesting to see how Tiara responds but best info likely from the adhesive mfg.
Have you tried some heat on the metal parts under the teak?

 

[sum escape]

Get a thin piece of strong wire (or use a thin putty knife) and slowly heat the metal with a heat gun or carefully with a torch w/ air diffuser on it, while pulling the wire or pushing the scraper to break the bond.

Many marine adhesives like epoxy and polyurethane start to break down a around 300 degrees F.

Do you think the painted steel staircase will handle that level of heat without damage? Thanks.

 

[sum escape]

Tom
I'd pose that question to Tiara to see how they would advise owners to do maint...
In would be interesting to see how Tiara responds but best info likely from the adhesive mfg.
Have you tried some heat on the metal parts under the teak?

Yes, the question has been posed to Tiara. They have not responded but hopefully are researching for me....
I'll try heat and any other suggestions that come to light. Thanks.

 

[psneeld]

Do you think the painted steel staircase will handle that level of heat without damage? Thanks.

It may or may not. Like so many product instructions point out "start in an inconspicuous area".

It is the bottom of the step. Some boat projects unfortunately need to destroy/mar/etc access/whatever and require some additional work.

You could just try a little heat to soften but not completely destroy the sealant or try cold.... but that comes down to what's harder/more expensive?

Replacing the teak steps or tough up painting the bottom of the steps?

I would think long and hard about an alternate way to fix the lights....then if not seemingly possible, go back to the step removal plan.

Show a picture of the lights ....paying attention in the pic to why the step prevents removal...may be able to help there. Thinking outside the box has saved me many a time.

 

[Bmarler]

If I were facing this dilemma, I’d do one of two things. Either, drill right through that light and try to fish out the wire, install a new light n a plate to cover the hole.
Or, after drilling the light out, enlarge the hole for a nice surface mount courtesy light. Lots of options. Do both steps so they match.

 

[sum escape]

Here's the Tiara install instructions. As per their instructions, test lights before installing steps. Removal appears to be the only option to replace the lights with OEM matching lights. (8 steps so I want the 2 replacements to match)

 

[jleonard]

I’d try using an oscillating tool in between the wood and steel base if there’s a space to get tool started.

 

[Bmarler]

I’d try using an oscillating tool in between the wood and steel base if there’s a space to get tool started.

If step removal is the only option, the multi tool would be my choice as well. The smooth flat blade. It’s perfect for that.

 

[Datenight]

Get a thin piece of strong wire (or use a thin putty knife) and slowly heat the metal with a heat gun or carefully with a torch w/ air diffuser on it, while pulling the wire or pushing the scraper to break the bond.

Many marine adhesives like epoxy and polyurethane start to break down a around 300 degrees F.

This is the way I would go. Warm with the heat gun for about 2 minutes, see if you can get the knife or wire in. If not heat 2 more minutes. It will let go just may take some time.

I have used the heat method to remove port frames and damaged veneer. Steel may take longer to heat up. You can probably match the paint if it id damaged.

Rob

 

[psneeld]

Actually, I would use a infra-red temp gun, and heat till the temp was 150 degrees (most paints withstands that)...then go up 50 degree increments till something happens.

I would still hopefully finds a way to get the lights out and in without removing the whole step....but from the new pics...that may not be possible.

Heck 2 steps and you want it all to look OEM... as I posted...may come to bustin' off the steps and seeing if Tiara has close replacements.

 

[waterbound]

I'm not sure if the caulk you mentioned is similar to the stuff used at home, but I know at one time I used a caulk dissolving solution from Home Depot to break a bond where I couldn't just cut it. YMMV

 

[lwarden]

i would get a small bottle jack and place it between the bottom step outer corner and floor (with plywood protection). Then apply pressure to the corner up and heat to the underside metal surface and it will begin to peel up. Once you have a gap, start using wood wedges and keep peeling it up. This sort of adhesive is weak in peel (tension) so get a corner up and keep going. Block up the jack and do the next up till you have them all removed.

 

[Comodave]

I agree on the heat. I would heat it up and use a sharpened putty knife under the edge. Then maybe try Debond. It is used for breaking down 5200. It may or may not work on whatever caulk they used but worth a shot. Once I got a putty knife in I would try to get some wedges in and let them sit and occasionally drive them in further. Letting them sit will put continual pressure on the caulk. It may take some time but eventually it should come off. I watched a video on Ship Shape TV where they were trying to get an outboard mount/swim platform off a transom that had been glued on with 5200. It took them a while but it came off using this procedure . Be patient.

 

[Pascall]

Make a sturdy fishing line and two wooden bobbins (handles) and saw through with a sawing motion.

 

[Pascall]

In this way, the Dutch also sawed through the Russian Koersk submarine.

 

[Pascall]

Okay, exactly the same but different.

Just kidding, but if you can get a wedge in between you might be able to cut it with a fishing line

Pascal.

 

[Bmarler]

Okay, exactly the same but different.

Just kidding, but if you can get a wedge in between you might be able to cut it with a fishing line

Pascal.

I’ve used that method to remove car windshields, but use piano wire with the bobbins on the end.

 

[KnotYet]

Do you think the painted steel staircase will handle that level of heat without damage? Thanks.

The foam sculpting craft uses electric hot wire 'knives' to slice through material.
One of these, there are many, will heat only the adhesive once it's in contact.
They are also very simple to make with a length of NiChrome wire, as many do.
https://www.micromark.com/Woodland-...MIsva4o7uPgwMVPczCBB0ixA9_EAQYBSABEgLUOPD_BwE
https://hotwirefoamfactory.com

 

[tiz]

I vote for lwarden's solution. Wood shim wedges from hardware store. Just need enough heat (warmth really) to soften the sealant then get a wedge started, then another and so on. You may use 20 wedges per step. A pack is about $2.

--Kevin

 

[Bob Nala]

I have used this product to remove a thru hull transducer. It works.
https://harbourchandler.ca/debond-marine-formula/

 

[jcurry]

Try using De-Bond along with a thin putty knife/dead blow mallet.

 

[J0k3r]

i would get a small bottle jack and place it between the bottom step outer corner and floor (with plywood protection). Then apply pressure to the corner up and heat to the underside metal surface and it will begin to peel up. Once you have a gap, start using wood wedges and keep peeling it up. This sort of adhesive is weak in peel (tension) so get a corner up and keep going. Block up the jack and do the next up till you have them all removed.

 

[Kit_L]

For flexible sawing, I have found braid to be far better than fishing line; it is both stronger than fishing line for any given diameter and it has a braided surface so much better at cutting. And all the suggestions about heat are definitely worth trying I think before you try cutting with the braid. Do let us know how you go.