Broken teak edge fix?

[wkearney99]

I had a line get caught closing a cockpit deck hatch. A 6" long by 1/2" wide sliver of deck wood cracked and came loose. The edges are clean, the piece slots back in evenly.

My question us what adhesive or method is best to reattach it?

 

[Russell Clifton]

Epoxy will do the trick.

 

[Pack Mule]

Epoxy will do the trick.

What he said plus I might would acetone the crack right before applying the epoxy.

 

[Comodave]

Agree with that, acetone then epoxy it. Just be careful if you need to stain the wood where it cracked I would do the stain before the epoxy. Once the epoxy gets on the teak the stain won’t be able to penetrate the wood grain. If you stain along the edges of the crack it may not be as noticeable after you epoxy the sliver back in.

 

[rgano]

Not sure of the profile, but if there is a vertical edge available you might want to consider a couple of small screws put horizontally in there with teak plugs to make the repair nearly invisible and help the epoxy do its just.

 

[rwidman]

It is difficult to glue teak because teak is naturally oily. Cleaning with acetone might help, but mechanical fastening would be better.

Screws, as mentioned above, would do the trick. Much more difficult would be using biscuits or dowels on the inside so nothing shows from the outside.

 

[DennisB1]

West G Flex epoxy
Clean wood with acetone. Mask areas that you don’t want epoxy on. They also have a filled epoxy that will not run/flow which is very handy. It is in a tube and you can mix small batches 1 to 2 ratio.

 

[Cigatoo]

I like Gorilla glue better than epoxy with teak. Dampen one surface first as moisture is what cures the glue. Use sparingly as the glue will ooze out. A little sanding after will clean excess glue.

 

[clburti]

I like Gorilla glue better than epoxy with teak. Dampen one surface first as moisture is what cures the glue. Use sparingly as the glue will ooze out. A little sanding after will clean excess glue.

Agree with Charlie on this one. I've made door screens, cup holders, binocular boxes, gallery rails and door frames this way using urethane adhesive and all have held up well. Properly done, the joint will be stronger than the wood next to it. One caveat, the work has to be clamped together. If the urethane is allowed to expand and foam up, it will result in a weak joint.


If clamping is not feasible, acetone and epoxy would be the preferred repair.

 

[koliver]

If you use epoxy, it will not wear as the teak wears, so will start to show even if it doesn't show right away. Gorilla will wear a bit, so is preferable in this location.