Cost of Replacement Battery Pack 2011 GL33??

[READY]

I searched through the forum but could not find price or where they can be sourced in the US (and general availability). I am contemplating purchase of one of these boats. Apparently for reasons unknown to me, the battery pack(s)? were replaced in 2014. So from general knowledge of batteries and what I have read in this forum 5-10 years is about all that can be expected making this pack likely end of life.

Second question, if the battery fails, other than not being able to operate in electric mode, can you still operate the boat with diesel (VW engine) and run the other systems.

Last question, has anyone installed a modern 48V LiFePO4 battery or batteries?

My wife and I like the general styling and think it would make a great boat for operation mostly around San Diego Bay. Enough sleeping room for a couple with a dog (mostly at the dock or occasionally on anchor or mooring) and nice entertaining with the cockpit and fold down transom. No expected usage in rough water.

I am very familiar with boats in general, DIY projects and have installed my own LiFePO4 systems so it seems that given the use of Victron components in this boat it wouldn't require a massive amount of changes to put in a few off the shelf batteries.

 

[Rich J]

I put in four battleborn 8 d batteries with. 4 . 0 awg cables in series. Installed two port side one starboard side and one under helm.also had surge supressor. Combination worked with 48 v victron reprogrammed for lithium iron rather than LiPo confirm calculation of higher capacity,

 

[READY]

Thanks Rich. Just to confirm the batts you put in are running the electric drive (not just powering the onboard electric items)? Also could you share the model # or a link to the Battleborn 8Ds you installed. I like the design of the GL33 but don't want to get into a situation where I have to replace the drive batteries with some crazy custom pack coming from Europe for ???? dollars. Your solution seems like a great way to go as long as these are for the electric motor.

 

[Rich J]

Yes it drives the electric drive . Cost $10,000 for batteries and 25 ft of 4.0 awg fine standee wire fuses hi amperage blue seas shutoff.also battery monitor with alarm before bms would shut down for low voltage. It is safer than lithium polymer.

 

[READY]

Thanks Rich. Doesn't sound too daunting. Glad I made it to the age where lithium is reasonably priced as I am sure a decade ago this was a much higher cost. I will verify but I think the prior owner did the proper wiring and monitoring/safety/configuration work for off the shelf LFP batteries.

 

[ScottC]

10 years is what the GL33 manufacturer claims is the expected lifespan of the hybrid battery. In my case, I got about 9 years before having to replace it. If the battery is not carefully taken care of, it could, indeed, have a much shorter lifespan. When I replaced mine in 2019, the factory gave me a choice of rebuilt or new, with all new BMS and electronics. I went the latter route. I am away form home and don't have the records with me now, but I seem to recall that it was around 15k€ at the time for an exact LiPo + electronics replacement. (To this, I had to add shipping and travel for a factory service technician to come to Sweden from Slovenia). I am hoping to get 10 years out of my current battery and am also hoping for better -- and less expensive -- options when the time comes to do it again.

If you determine the battery needs to be replaced, it is risky to try to use it. BUT....with the 48V red master switches off, you can run the boat safely on diesel-only just fine. Just remember, you won't have any 110v from the inverter either, as the inverter relies on they 48v hybrid battery.

 

[READY]

Thanks Scott. That is great information. I am pretty confident batteries are at a minimum end of life as they are 10 years old. At this point it could be risky to depend upon them (safety and reliability risk). Good to know they can be bypassed to use diesel.

 

[ScottC]

To be on the safe side, you will also want to disconnect the cables to the 48v battery from the solar charge controller, as turning the 48V switches off does not stop the solar charging.

 

[READY]

Good point. I have an accepted offer as of today and will go into survey next week. I have a solid electronics background but feel free based upon experience with Greenline to point out any areas where we should really beware. For example is there any method to test the overall health of the clutch. Other than leaks are there any warning signs such as sounds?
Engine has less than 300 hours and by outward appearances is immaculate.

Coming from a 1976 Hatteras 48LRC the Greenline is like a rocket ship in terms of both speed wow (12 kts!) and modern tech. But on the Hatt I have installed LFP, Victron, Balmar high output alternator and Wakespeed regulator. Can monitor most everything remotely so it might be one of the most high tech 1976 boats around. Spoiled from the no-tech Ford Lehmans so the VW TDI 165HP engines will be a big change.

We love our Hatteras but we will age out of boating before I can get a 50 ft slip at our club here in San Diego. Going to 36 or even 40 puts me #1 on the wait list and these sizes turn over fairly often.

 

[ScottC]

It's truly a shame you have to give up your 48 LRC due to lack of available marina space! Long ago, I took a close look at a Hatt 44 LRC. I really admired that boat.

Warning signs that you need -- or are about to need -- hybrid clutch work on an early model GL33 or GL40:
- when you have the hybrid switch in electric mode and put it in gear, the electric motor tries to turn over the diesel engine.
- sudden loss of hydraulic clutch fluid in the clear plastic reservoir near the master cylinder
- slipping clutch when running on diesel: You increase diesel rpms, but obtain little or no additional speed....and eventually notice an acrid burning-clutch smell, as the clutch plates have become covered with leaking hydraulic fluid from the slave cylinder (in the clutch housing) and they are slipping.

If hybrid clutch work is needed, it is likely you will experience one or some combination of these symptoms, but it is unlikely you will experience them all at the same time.

 

[martyc]

Good point. I have an accepted offer as of today and will go into survey next week. I have a solid electronics background but feel free based upon experience with Greenline to point out any areas where we should really beware. For example is there any method to test the overall health of the clutch. Other than leaks are there any warning signs such as sounds?
Engine has less than 300 hours and by outward appearances is immaculate.

Coming from a 1976 Hatteras 48LRC the Greenline is like a rocket ship in terms of both speed wow (12 kts!) and modern tech. But on the Hatt I have installed LFP, Victron, Balmar high output alternator and Wakespeed regulator. Can monitor most everything remotely so it might be one of the most high tech 1976 boats around. Spoiled from the no-tech Ford Lehmans so the VW TDI 165HP engines will be a big change.

We love our Hatteras but we will age out of boating before I can get a 50 ft slip at our club here in San Diego. Going to 36 or even 40 puts me #1 on the wait list and these sizes turn over fairly often.

Ken,
From the VW point of view you'll love the oil and filter change. That couldn't be easier.
From a remote management perspective most of this is standard apart from the MPPT, a Pi running VenusOS large instead of a CerboGX and the appropriate Victron cables. The only downside is that the firmware on the original Multiplus is 19xxxx version so you can't remotely turn on and off charging. All visible via VRM from Victron.

Cheers
Martin

 

[ScottC]

The only downside is that the firmware on the original Multiplus is 19xxxx version so you can't remotely turn on and off charging. All visible via VRM from Victron.

I am on 19xxxx and have VRM/Victron Global Remote and agree, there is no obvious way to turn on and off charging. I have wondered, but have not tried yet, if I could achieve on/off functionality via a workaround. I believe I have seen where a configuration file can be downloaded and uploaded remotely. If this is, indeed, the case, then I find myself wondering if one could achieve the equivalent of on/off by uploading different configuration files. A pain, I admit -- and I haven't tried it...but I have been wondering...

What's on my mind more lately is that the sunset of the 2G mobile network will incapacitate our Global Remotes. I spoke to Victron about this. The guy I spoke to even went as far as to suggest that any next generation Victron Global Remote will not likely be backward compatible to our old Victron Multis. Sigh....