Diesel Oil Stains, Oh Crap!

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Joined
Jul 25, 2014
Messages
1,969
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Pairadice
Vessel Make
Sold Selene 47
In a hurry to get stuff out of a forward locker almost a week ago, the 5 gal plastic bucket that I use to store the dirty oil during oil changes of the main and genny fell on its side. Now the container was empty, but last oil change I didn’t wipe the inside at all after emptying the waste. The lid isn’t a screw on type, it just sorta snaps on, and the limited amount that was remaining in the container leaked into the storage locker.
During the night we had a pretty good rain storm and I estimate maybe a quarter cup of dirty dello oil drained from the drain hole of the storage locker and ran down the deck of the Portuguese bridge and headed back to the stern.
By the time I found the oil on deck, the rain had splattered it all over.
Now the first thing I thought was, has it drained into the marina and are the Green Cops coming after me. Upon further investigation, the oil only traveled about 3 feet behind the ladder leading up to the Portuguese bridge of the Starboard side.

The first thing I did, was grab a role of paper towels to absorb the oil prior to cleaning the mess up, this may of been a mistake, because I think I smeared it into the fiberglass and made a bigger problem. But at least it was contained and now most if not all the standing oil was safely off the glass and in an garbage bag. Next I used almost a full pint of Dawn and a soft brush to try and neutralize the remaining oil. But my fear of badly stained glass was confirmed when I rinsed the soap off.
The first 2 pics are of the glass after the Dawn cleaning. I’m thinking, Oh Crap, nice job there Crusty.
Next I tried a bit stiffer brush and regular boat soap, Nope, hardly any difference.
Next was Bleach bathroom spray cleaner, now I’m getting somewhere. Still looks bad, but not nearly as bad as it was.
By now I’m thinking maybe its soaked into the wax, that I just paid dearly to have the guys put on.
So I call my detail guys and when they showed up they almost walked away before I pleaded for them to try something. The first thing they tried was some cutting compound in an out of the way spot with almost no results. Then they tried some soft scrub, again with almost no results.
So I’m scratching my you know what, when my last idea comes into my little pea brain. How about some FSR? For those not familiar, Fiberglass Stain Remover is a great product I found almost 4 years ago.
Well It worked, well almost. After numerous applications, We still have a few areas that are still stained.
So were gonna let it sit for a week or so before we add any more caustic cleaners and see if the remaining stains diminish enough to apply new wax.

Lesson learned, well until the next time I screw up!
 

Attachments

  • 578E63AA-EC0C-450F-8297-C2D65B41C1E2.jpeg
    578E63AA-EC0C-450F-8297-C2D65B41C1E2.jpeg
    89.9 KB · Views: 165
  • FC725ABB-372B-4503-975A-4F46B3082640.jpeg
    FC725ABB-372B-4503-975A-4F46B3082640.jpeg
    95.2 KB · Views: 164
  • 8B019A0F-95B9-435F-91E3-C197F19A9E23.jpeg
    8B019A0F-95B9-435F-91E3-C197F19A9E23.jpeg
    52.5 KB · Views: 170
  • B7ACDE2F-19F0-4FBB-9245-F31FDF8E2F79.jpeg
    B7ACDE2F-19F0-4FBB-9245-F31FDF8E2F79.jpeg
    56.1 KB · Views: 173
Paint or gelcoat?

Ted

Pretty sure its the original Gelcoat. This may be one of those things we put on the list to get done down in Mexico when we haul out for other work, summer of 20.
 
John,

I've used FSR and also like it. Another tip I rec'd from a guest aboard was Clorox Cleaner with Bleach. I had some salmon roe stains that I couldn't clean. The Clorox on the white gelcoat worked effortlessly in about 30-45 secs.

It also worked on the countless rust stains from grinding metal in the cockpit. :facepalm:

https://www.clorox.com/products/clorox-clean-up-cleaner-bleach/original/
 
Deja vu John.

I had to take oil samples for this year's insurance, so when the sample bottles were filled, the turkey baster went into a yogurt container for later disposal. In the meantime, I set it outside the door, on the teak decking. Sure enough, when I went to retrieve it, it was on its side, with the contents running down the gutter towards the Green Police. I caught it in time, just as you did. I immediately cleaned the gutter gelcoat with Lysol Toilet bowl cleaner (FSR in a generic form) and it came up pretty well. Mine will never again be as pretty as yours, but then yours isn't 38 yrs old. The teak, however, still shows a lot of black. Apparently, hydrochloric acid (the active ingredient) is not effective to get oil off of teak. I am hoping it will wear off.
 
John,

I've used FSR and also like it. Another tip I rec'd from a guest aboard was Clorox Cleaner with Bleach. I had some salmon roe stains that I couldn't clean. The Clorox on the white gelcoat worked effortlessly in about 30-45 secs.

It also worked on the countless rust stains from grinding metal in the cockpit. :facepalm:

https://www.clorox.com/products/clorox-clean-up-cleaner-bleach/original/

Yep! Ours was the blue container that has bathroom on it, well it did....we used it up.
 
Deja vu John.

I immediately cleaned the gutter gelcoat with Lysol Toilet bowl cleaner (FSR in a generic form) and it came up pretty well.

Well ya learn something new everyday, thanks for the tip.
 
I'm going to make a wild suggestion here :

Try using some detailers clay bar on a small area. It might just work.

Or - you could use the finest grain sandpaper and then buff smooth again once completed.

As for the decking mat material - might be needing to be replaced if its absorbent like it seems in the photos.

Good luck
 
I'm going to make a wild suggestion here :

Try using some detailers clay bar on a small area. It might just work.

Or - you could use the finest grain sandpaper and then buff smooth again once completed.

As for the decking mat material - might be needing to be replaced if its absorbent like it seems in the photos.

Good luck

Your post reminded me of the magic eraser...a very, very fine abrasive sponge that does well on many stubborn stains. It removed my transom diesel soot stains. All of these caustic and abrasive remedies will need a followup with wax on a boat as nice as John's. Wax is not really an issue on FlyWright...:blush:
 
I'm going to make a wild suggestion here :

Try using some detailers clay bar on a small area. It might just work.

Or - you could use the finest grain sandpaper and then buff smooth again once completed.

As for the decking mat material - might be needing to be replaced if its absorbent like it seems in the photos.

Good luck

At this point, dont think were gonna get any more aggressive, as the cutting compound had little effect, removing anymore of the gelcoat is not something I wanna tackle, but thanks for the idea anyway.

The decking mat you refer to is just a finish the builder incorporated during the build. Its a material that is applied over the glass as a sort of non-skid. I suspect its more for aesthetics because the raised diamond pattern is in the glass underneath. And the mat is almost stain free, couldn’t be that lucky on the smooth glass.
 
I don't envy you.

I have awlgrip. Stains are called character spots on our boat. hahahaha. There forever.
 
Your post reminded me of the magic eraser...a very, very fine abrasive sponge that does well on many stubborn stains. It removed my transom diesel soot stains. All of these caustic and abrasive remedies will need a followup with wax on a boat as nice as John's. Wax is not really an issue on FlyWright...:blush:

Hey! Even a pig will look better with a bit of Lipstick, LOL:rofl:

You’d be surprised what a good cut and wax job wil do on glass!
 
I don't worry about the minutia. My boat has workboat credentials and expect it to show the part.
 
Deja vu John.

I had to take oil samples for this year's insurance, so when the sample bottles were filled, the turkey baster went into a yogurt container for later disposal. In the meantime, I set it outside the door, on the teak decking. Sure enough, when I went to retrieve it, it was on its side, with the contents running down the gutter towards the Green Police. I caught it in time, just as you did. I immediately cleaned the gutter gelcoat with Lysol Toilet bowl cleaner (FSR in a generic form) and it came up pretty well. Mine will never again be as pretty as yours, but then yours isn't 38 yrs old. The teak, however, still shows a lot of black. Apparently, hydrochloric acid (the active ingredient) is not effective to get oil off of teak. I am hoping it will wear off.

I’ve accidentally spilled oil, diesel, and graphite lock lubricant on my teak decks through the years. Teak is amazing! After a period of time, you won’t see where the oil stained the deck. Give it time!
 
Stains are called character spots on our boat. hahahaha. There forever.

I call it patina. Every mark tells a story. Thank God my boat can't talk! :D

John, IMO, shine is greatly overrated. I put my effort into system operation and reliability and into boating fun like fishing and cruising. The older I get, the less I need to support the shine. It's a 41 yr old boat that was Hull #1, an imperfect prototype for the model. I love her and affectionately refer to her as Comfortably Imperfect.
 
Sorry about the stain. I think the FSR is probably about as good as you will get without getting really aggressive. I would avoid any abrasives, including a magic eraser and just give it time. You may find that with weathering and sun exposure that it becomes less of an issue. If it is still bad when down in Mexico, then tackle it again.
 
Crusty, I think you better sell 'er, she's obviously ruined.

Leave it alone, sun will do the best job on it, as it does on teak. Its pretty silly when you think of it, making the decks white? I know there are heat issues, but how many of you have white floors in your house, and I don't mean that polar bear rug in the living room?

I just bought a giant pressure washer and I will be "vapour blasting" my decks in a few days. You should see my decks now, then maybe you'd relax and maybe have a rum or two...
 
Last edited:
do you think Darcy cleaner would help?
 
Carbon tetrachloride? Its probably the soot in the diesel that's staining?
 
Crusty, I think you better sell 'er, she's obviously ruined.

Leave it alone, sun will do the best job on it, as it does on teak. Its pretty silly when you think of it, making the decks white? I know there are heat issues, but how many of you have white floors in your house, and I don't mean that polar bear rug in the living room?

I just bought a giant pressure washer and I will be "vapour blasting" my decks in a few days. You should see my decks now, then maybe you'd relax and maybe have a rum or two...

That’s what were are gonna try, get some of these other tasks done and leave the stains alone, and thanks for the “Rum” suggestion, might tasty suggestion!

And Carbon Tetracloride, who should have thought a fire extinguisher agent would clean, might have to try it. Thanks for the idea.
 
Last edited:
FYI I use a 5 gallon gas can for my drain oil.
Very minimal spill possibility both in the boat and during transport for disposal. And with a nice spout to pour into the disposal container. With the cap on the dregs won't spill either
 
FYI I use a 5 gallon gas can for my drain oil.
Very minimal spill possibility both in the boat and during transport for disposal. And with a nice spout to pour into the disposal container. With the cap on the dregs won't spill either


I use two, 3 gallon waste oil containers. They fit nicely in a plastic tote along with everything I need for an oil change. Easy to transport, won't leak. However, I don't live on board so the tote lives on a shelf in my garage. On the boat I keep a small, 1.5 waste oil container with a screw lid that I use for waste oil or diesel between oil changes. It stays in the ER in a secure spot and gets emptied into the other containers when I do an oil change.

s-l300.jpg

black-yellow-hdx-storage-bins-totes-hdx27gonline-5-64_400_compressed.jpg
 
Had a brain fart and tried a bit of MEK, helped a lot in the small area I tried. Might just have to give it a go tomorrow between other jobs.
 
My neighbor across the street cleans carpets and various things. He has a low pressure steam cleaner that he brought over and did my engines and bilge. Worked great. He had a vac hose from his truck that he used to immediately suck up the crud so it didn’t get overboard. Something like that may work on your deck.
 
I had success cleaning up a 2 pack paint pot spill on teak with the solvent. Caulking needed a redo, but the teak cleaned up well, and residue faded with time.
 
I gave up on reusable containers for waste oil. When I do a change, I get the requisite number of HD or Lowe’s 5 gal buckets with lids, fill’em up directly from the Reverso system, snap on the lids, drop them at the county transfer station, and drive away.
 
Well that oil in the bucket could jave been from ASD. Used Cat oil is nasty nasty stuff....
 
I have had some success with methyl hydrate (wood alcohol) on gelcoat stains.
Be careful with bleach-it bleaches everything it touches. Clorox,etc
Cleaners with a hydroxy base seem to be less "bleachy"
As always-test in an inconspicuous spot & don't be afraid to let it sit for a bit if it doesn't work right away. Not many household cleaners will actually damage gelcoat. They usually just dull it while soaking out the absorbed stain.
Wax will bring the shine back.


Len
 
I cleaned teak deck with simple green and a scrunge. I had done some painting last year and got a few paint drops-spatters on the wood. The simple green loosened them and my fingernail and the scrunge got all of them out of the wood grain. It seemed to float tthe paint out of the wood grain. Of course I let my teak go gray and gray wood fibers are actually degraded wood fibers so the paint is sticking to degraded wood fiber, which makes it easier to remove. But this cleaning worked better than just using water..

Simple green also cleaned off some dark looking mildew which was not too noticeable when dry on the teak steps.

With teak most scrubbing should be done across the wood grain., unless it wont come out, then you have to scrub a little with the grain. But don't use a bristle brush, a scrunge is flatter in profile and bristle brush has spikes more likely to dig into the wood grain. That is my experience.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom