Diesel Tank Biomass Removal

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I have used large holes saws and they can jam very easily and they will twist your arms so quickly you may not be able to control/stop it even if the drill has a large handle.

As mentioned SS will work harden quickly under a cutter if you do not keep enough pressure on to ensure it cuts and keep the metal lubed and cool. That will be very difficult with a large hole saw in an awkward position.

I too would suggest a sabre saw or a reciprocating saw and the appropriate blades for the thickness. Because the sabre/recipro saws only present a small cutting edge they are much easier to maintain the cutting pressure and they won't twist like the drill.

Mark out the ID of the plate which I'm sure you have done.

THen drill several holes around the ID of the access hole so the OD of the drill bit is just inside of the access hole. I would go with every 90o or 4 holes of a size, 1/2", to allow the insertion of the sabre saw blade. You will likely need to go with a much smaller pilot initially.

Use Cobalt or titanium nitrided drill bits with the split points and SHARP and new. I'm pretty decent at hand sharpening bits but for this I would not do that. There are machines out there but even a Drill Doctor will cost more than the few bits. The split points will help get the bit started more easily and without all the walking. Just make a good centre punch mark. A very small drill bit as above may suffice for easy enlarging of a poor centre punch mark.

The access hole edges can be cleaned up afterwards once the large hole has been made..

Wear good hearing and eye protection.

As a last suggestion use lots of paper towels under and around the cutting area to catch chips. They will reduce the chip bounce a lot so they don't scatter as much which will reduce your cleanup. Newspaper not so good.
 
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You might have an Asphaltine problem.... Black, stringy, Tar like material. This stuff will help dissolve and break up that stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G4TWBDA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2v2vk92s8x3cYB.jpg
 
Here is what is in my tank that started this thread. My pickup tube and the internal racor housing were plugged with this biomass. It came out of the pickup tube in one long plug. It was almost like wet putty. The tank had been agitated due to continuous boat wake and it got sucked up. I’m sure there must be more in the tank so the only way to get at it is to open up the tank. The picture was taken hours after I removed the plug and it had begun to dry out and shrink. When it came out it was multicolored tan, green, and brown.
 

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C letric which sabre saw blades do you recommend? I have a bosch scrolling jigsaw. Will this do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T118AH...000X4TZHW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

It looks like this blade may work well in your application. It depends on how thick your tank is. I have some similar blades for cutting fiberglass that work great. I used it to cut some Corian when I was making new countertops for. Our boat. Bosch says it is for cutting S/S so I would give it a try.
 
Cobalt drill as mentioned above is the ticket for stainless. As you’ve probably realized by now, there is no way that a bimetal holesaw will cut a hole in a stainless tank.
 
Cobalt drill as mentioned above is the ticket for stainless. As you’ve probably realized by now, there is no way that a bimetal holesaw will cut a hole in a stainless tank.



:iagree:
 
The bimetal hole saw will leave a mark so you will know where to cut with the jigsaw.
 
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I have an old, non scrolling sabre saw, Makita. I don't think the scroll will be an advantage here but since I don't and never have had one I cannot say categorically. The only issue might be that could make it usefull is if there is interference as you swing the saw body.

The most important thing is YOU have the best possible control of the saw and if that means locking the scroll do it untill an interference shows up.

I just use the metal cutting blades for the metal thickness I'm butchering and go at it. SS will use more blades than mild steel.

A note about the paper towels I just thought about. I use the blue Scot shop towels wetted, just good and damp. Once allowed to dry the chips can be shaken free for reusing the towel.
 
can you remove the sender access cover and look thru there or suck some crap from the bottom of the tank where most of the stuff settles.
 
Gasoline will break loose biomass in fuel tanks and cans. Then how to get it out.

I would not put gas in a diesel tank. It may break up the biomass but then you would have a much more volitile mixture to deal with. You would need an explosion rated pump to get it out. Much rather just deal with diesel, most any pump will work with diesel.
 
Put in the afore mentioned biocide and give it time to do it's work. Disconnect the fuel intake line from the filter and use compressed air to blow out the debris from the line.
Plumb a 2 way valve into the filter output line and another into the engine fuel return line. Connect new lines between the valves and a continuous duty 12v diesel pump. Start with a 30 micron filter and polish the fuel until the filter plugs. Repeat as necessary until it no longer plugs. Move to a 10 micron filter and repeat. Then 2 micron.
Sounds complicated but I did this for $75 and 2 hours of work excluding polishing. And now I have a permanent fuel polishing system that doesn't require running the engine.
For preventative maintenance twice a year activate the system for several hours then change out the filter. Don't forget to put the valves back into the engine run position. I use 2 micron filters.
 
I really can't understand why boat builders insist on drawing fuel via the top of the tank then fitting water separators and filters which are not able to do the job they were designed to do.
If they had brains they'd be dangerous.
If you draw your fuel from the bottom of the tank in exactly the way a truck does, then, exactly the same as a truck fit a primary filter/water separator with a tap drain on the bottom, any condensation/water can be drained off daily (most have an electrical moisture alarm/light on the dash in the cabin if water is present to alert you to drain it off).
Because of the motion just like a boat, the system is self cleaning, there can be no build up of crud/water/biomass call it whatever you like because its constantly being drawn off in minute quantities and caught by the fuel/water separator/filters which are changed at every service.
We've owned what you call truck tractors, (we call them tractor units) which travel all over Europe drawing fuel in various places wherever its cheapest and we've never, ever, had to clean fuel tanks, some of these trucks can cover up to a million miles before we replace them so the system speaks for itself.
Maybe Raccor are paying the boat builders ? :)

When cleaning your tanks NEVER USE GASOLINE, use paraffin, it's just as effective and not as dangerous from fumes or volatility.

SAFETY FIRST, ALWAYS FIRST.
 
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I believe the worry with fittings on the tank bottoms are a line coming undone and dumping the entire contents of the tank into the bilge and then overboard through the bilge pump. A little diesel, no problem. A lot of diesel, big problem. Also, in some boats, keeping the tank bottoms free of fittings means they can fit in tighter places while keeping the size a bit larger. My boat will have to top feed as the tanks will be contoured to the hull shape.
 
Instead of a hole saw I used a jig saw to cut the 6" hole. The SeaBuilt unit is a perfect solution and, if installed properly on a flat surface, it will be leak proof.
BTW, I thought that my tanks were stainless steel but once I started cutting they turned out to be just regular steel.
 
In all my years working with tanks, personnel carriers, amphibians even in conflict and later my family trucking business. I've never ever experienced, or heard of, a diesel tank bottom fitting coming loose or being broken off. A boat diesel reservoir is no different and properly installed would give no problems either.
 
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I agree with Killem use, worked on a boat recently with alloy tanks what a nightmare diesel had become a glutinous muck dumped 2 or 3 bottles of Killem into the tank left for 2 or 3 days rocking boat regularity and pumped air into tank at about 10psi which assisted breaking up the goop final result after pumping out with a hand pump and partially filling and running, changing primary 2 or 3 times they now have a clean system.Just one way I guess
 
In all my years working with tanks, personnel carriers, amphibians even in conflict and later my family trucking business. I've never ever experienced, or heard of, a diesel tank bottom fitting coming loose or being broken off. A boat diesel reservoir is no different and properly installed would give no problems either.

You and I know that, but I think liability drives makers of tanks to shy away from the practical aspects of bottom drains.
The workaround is a sump with a separate drain, independent from the pickup line, and plumbed from the top of the tank.
In military nomenclature it’s a “stripping port”.
 
You and I know that, but I think liability drives makers of tanks to shy away from the practical aspects of bottom drains.
The workaround is a sump with a separate drain, independent from the pickup line, and plumbed from the top of the tank.
In military nomenclature it’s a “stripping port”.




Exactly right here in the good ole freedom loving US of A. :thumb:
 
I agree that there is a small extra risk of losing a tank of fuel into the bilge if using a fuel outlet directly off the bottom of the tank.

I minimize the risk by using heavy walled stainless steel fuel lines and fittings.
 
UPDATE to original post:

I was able to cut a 6” hole in the stainless tank using a 6” bi-metal hole saw. It actually went through faster than drilling the pilot hole with new cobalt bits. The hole saw is still sharp and ready to go again. Much easier than using a jigsaw in my opinion. What I found inside was worse than expected. I scooped all the biomass out that I could get to then suctioned the rest that I could access. The challenge I now face is that this long rectangular 90 gal tank has 4 chambers (baffles) that are divided by solid stainless steel walls. Each wall has two half moon holes in the bottom and two 3” holes part way up. Each chamber has lists of thick heavy biomass. Only one chamber can be reached. I suctioned all the fuel out that I could and then poured new fuel in hoping to dislodge the biomass and get it to move into the chamber I can access. No such luck. I then added killem to the tank and am letting it sit. This weekend I have a fuel polisher with a 70 psi wand to see if he can force diesel under pressure and get the sludge to move. He seems to think he can. Open to thoughts and ideas at this point. Including photos in case you are curious what a ugly crop of biomass looks like.
 

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I have seen access ports cut into every chamber of a fuel tank. I would give the polisher a try first before cutting any more holes in the tanks. It would be nice if the polisher's wand had a 90-degree jet or better to get a back spray like some of the pressure washer nozzles.
 
Well at least you are making some progress. Keep us informed.
 

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