Dinghy crane winch

[MaasGuy]

Hello folks.....having an issue with my dinghy crane. It's an Atkins & Hoyle 650 lb capacity I believe, (haven't found a model number anywhere). Anyways....I plug the remote in and hit the switch and all it does is click the solenoids. I replace the solenoids and it still does the same thing. I have 12v power to the solenoids and when I hit either the up or down switch, the winch motor is getting roughly 6.5v. I videoed the wiring before I replaced the solenoids to make sure I put it together right. Anyone have any advice on what my next step should be? Not sure of the electric motor manufacturer but the plastic cover for the solenoids and where I plug the remote in is stamped "Rule".

 

[Jeff F]

Atkins and Hoyle is still in business I think. It might be worth giving them a call.

http://www.atkinshoyle.com/

Sent from my moto g play (2021) using Trawler Forum mobile app

 

[MaasGuy]

Actually just did.....they are a Canadian company and open today....he gave me some good tips.

 

[STB]

The red stranded wire going into that ring connector looks a little corroded in the picture, even though the terminal, itself, looks okay. You might check to see if those wires and connectors are performing well. It could be as easy as cutting that wire back and crimping on new rings, or butt connecting in some new wire and crimping on new rings.

I've had some wire I've had to cut many //feet// off of because of corrosion. It wa stranded copper, but wasn't tinned and wasn't super tightly sealed between the copper and insulation. It aged more rapidly than one might expect.

Happy hunting!

 

[Larry M]

We replaced our Rule hoist with a direct replacement by Warn that had similar switching solenoids.

Our davit system was manufactured by Nick Jackson, Co. If you get stuck, I’d contact Nick Jackson, Co.

Nick Jackson CO Davits

Another option would be to contact Warn. The switch boxes are available for the hoists that they sell.

 

[MaasGuy]

A little update....not fixed yet. The person I spoke with at A&H suggested finding the fuse and checking that out. Traced the wires and they go directly to the house bank through a fuse holder that has a 30 amp maxi fuse. Tried pulling the fuse out and it was STUCK! Had to use pliers and the fuse pulled off and left the blades in the holder. Super corroded. So now I am waiting on a new fuse and holder. I will cut off the ends of all the wiring until I get to good metal and reattach everything. Crossing my fingers that this will solve the problem and I will update here when I figure it out.

 

[JDCAVE]

We had difficulty with our winch setup. The problem was the Rule winch. I had it repaired in Port McNeill and was told, that was it. No longer any parts. It went on me again, figuring I’d have to,replace it with a Warn winch. However, I took it to my “go to” alternator/starter/winch shop (Brighouse electric) and they said, No problem and fixed it. Brushes and corrosion again.

The test is to put power directly to the winch and see if it works.

Take it to an alternator shop and then put a cover on it to prevent future problems.

Jim

 

[MaasGuy]

That is an excellent idea Jim.

I am going to try the fuse angle but if that does not work I will definitely pull everything apart and take the motor to a starter/alternator shop. (which I suspect I'll end up doing)

The guy I talked to at A&H told me they are using Warn now.

 

[JDCAVE]

Yes. I had the whole clicking solenoids thing going on too. In my case it was the winch motor. I had considered going over to Warn, but they are expensive. Ask at an alternator shop. I can’t remember the voltage sag thing. I might have had that too. But if you try putting power directly to it, you will know for sure if that is the problem.

 

[C lectric]

In your photos I see a bunch or squiffy connections that should be redone. THe wire itself is showing signs of corrosion running inside the terminals. That can cause enough voltage drop that the motor cannot work, only try,

Cut the terminals off and see if you can get back to bright copper wire. If not then it will be time for a rewire job.

On several occasions I have salvaged wire by using ROSIN FLUX, NOT ACID FLUX. Dip the stripped wire end into the flux and heat it with the soldering iron. Separate the wire strands SLIGHTLY first so the flux can penetrate a bit as you dip it. THe flux will remove the corrosion when heated if not to heavy. Then use some alcohol to remove the flux and a small bristle brush to scrub lightly.

OR

Get either heat shrink covered terminals or heat shrink tubing with adhesive lining so the wire is protected from moisture.
Also try to get the wires out of the bilge as ANY bilge water splash will cause corrosion to form again quickly.

But either way you MUST get back to bright copper wire strands.