jleonard
Guru
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2008
- Messages
- 5,169
Another "vote" for Interlux Bilgecoat. I found it very durable.
I have also used gelcoat and prefer the bilgecoat paint.
I have also used gelcoat and prefer the bilgecoat paint.
The problem with gelcoat is as it gets dirty and oily as it ages, even when you are trying to keep it clean, it will never clean up totally. And so it will start to look dirty with age.
If it gets that bad, lightly sand, acetone, and 2 more coats. One of the big pluses over paint is that it's easy to recoat. No issues with pealing and compatability problems as long as you prep correctly.
Ted
...Gelcoat is cheap and easy I guess. But nothing beats a nice smooth and clean two part poly coated engine space.
Super bright, easy to clean, very long lasting and almost nothing attacks the finish.
Hi All. I will be doing a re-power on my boat this Spring. We will be cutting a big chunk of the Salon floor out to swap the engines. After that, I will spend a good deal of time on ER cleaning, painting, sound proofing and upgrading before the new engine is dropped in. After reading this thread, I started to check out the different paints everyone was using for the bilge and ER. I didn't see that anyone had used the Rustoleum 5300 Water Based Epoxy System and thought I would throw that one out there.
This is a two part system, 1 gallon of base and a pint of activator, that is fairly low VOC and can be applied over a slightly damp surface (mine will be dry). They claim it will stick to nearly everything including ferrous and non-ferrous metals and can be force cured up to 225 degrees. I don't plan on getting the ER that hot, but I can get well above 100 to get it set. It can be thinned with water and cleanup is with water. Here's the Technical Data sheet:
http://www.rustoleum.com/tds/5300 System_RO-52_2027990.pdf
Tell me what you think. Price isn't real bad. Gallon of paint and pint of activator is $75 on eBay/Zoro with free shipping.
Thanks.
Bob
A downside of using a 2 part polyurethane paint in the engine space is it has to stay dry with no standing water so it is not a good choice for bilge areas. The paint will blister and peel if in constant contact with water.
A downside of using a 2 part polyurethane paint in the engine space is it has to stay dry with no standing water so it is not a good choice for bilge areas. The paint will blister and peel if in constant contact with water.
No it doesn't. If the surface is prepped correctly.
This is for steel and can be used on masonry, but unless I missed something, it didn't say it was recommended for fiberglass did it?
Prep has nothing to do with it. It's the nature of 2 part polyurethane paints. They are not made for constant immersion in water. Boat hulls painted with a 2 part with water lines that are too low can have issues. Decks painted with a 2 part that have carpet, if the carpet doesn't dry out will blister.
An epoxy, gelcoat or a designed paint would be my first choice.
But if its a concern, just paint down to say 6" of where any standing water might be and then paint from there down with something else.