Engine Seacock Open/Close

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Joined
Oct 25, 2020
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17
Location
USA
Vessel Make
Transpac Eagle 32
My wife got me several tools and such for Christmas for the (new to us) Eagle 32, and it got us to talking about this question: the raw water intake for the engine is located almost at the very bottom of the bilge, a little over 3’ below the raised sole in the pilot house; and unfortunately in the closed position the handle is right next to the wet muffler. So we have to remove the sole panel and climb down into the engine compartment to open/close it. Has anyone rigged up anything that aides in opening/closing seacocks in positions like this? I’m going to try with a 3’ or so pole with a boat hook tip on the end, but curious what others may have rigged. I wouldn’t mind getting down there but I’m not as nimble as I once was.

On our sailboat I had much more ready access to both the engine seacock, oil dipstick and coolant tank, so checked oil/coolant before every start. On this boat the dipstick is a very short stick located up under the exhaust manifold - I’m thinking that I’ll put myself on a strict weekly or so checking schedule so I don’t have to get down in the compartment every time we start the engine.
 
They make electrically activated seacocks.

Some people rigged push/pull cables.
 
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Another possible option is to have it moved to a different location next time the boat gets hauled out.

Ted
 
Is this something you are frequently operating for some reason. I have a generator cooling water intake seacock which is all but impossible to reach, especially when the main engine is hot. I very rarely operate it, but when I do, I have one of those two-foot long grabbers folks use reach high items on shelves. Mine has a small vertical extension I can put on the far side on the closed ball valve to pull it open. I push it down (closed) with the extension placed on the other side of the handle.
 
Perhaps it could be tightened a quarter turn to move it away from the muffler.

FTI I rarely close seacocks.
 
On a survey, after operating my engine water seacock, the surveyor remarked to me that he rarely encountered a boat that has operating seacocks, as most are never exercised.

I confess that I operate mine on average, once every 5 years, as I like to know the surveyor (coming in the next week) will not be recommending replacement.
 
Ours get operated once a year at a minimum when we winterize the boat. They get closed while we put the antifreeze into the engine and then we open them back up. There are occasions during the summer that we operate them but not on a regular basis. We have replaced all the intake hose and clamps last year and this year so we should be good.
 
When I used to sail and seacocks were easy to reach, I closed them every time I left the boat. Now I never touch them for the most part.
 
I close mine after every run. I do a complete pre-start engine check before starting, and as such, I am right down there with the seacock anyway. I also leave a note beside the start key at the helm to remind me that the seacock is closed, and we have an Aqualarm flow alarm that would alarm instantly if I somehow forgot. It has not proven to be a problem as it is now "routine", and my seacock moves very easily as it is exercised often. Different methods for different folks!!
 
I close mine after every run. I do a complete pre-start engine check before starting, and as such, I am right down there with the seacock anyway. I also leave a note beside the start key at the helm to remind me that the seacock is closed, and we have an Aqualarm flow alarm that would alarm instantly if I somehow forgot. It has not proven to be a problem as it is now "routine", and my seacock moves very easily as it is exercised often. Different methods for different folks!!

This is me as well, and I went to the effort to pack Groco's grease into the seacock, installing zinc fittings on the valves that didn't have them already. Pretty much every time I leave the boat in the harbor I close the fuel valve and every below water through hull valve.
 
Schedule 40 pipe with the appropriate slot cut in it, long enough to operate the seacock with just the hatch open.
 
Another possible option is to have it moved to a different location next time the boat gets hauled out.

Ted
Ding - ding - ding! The winning answer!

My opinion, of you can't easily access and operate the sea cock, it needs to be moved. Really not that expensive to do. I just had two moved.

Peter
 
The usual outboard ser; 33 shift cables are weak, for a bit more $$$ the ser; 43 that can both push and pull hooked to a shift or throttle control should work fine.

Drop the engine start key over the control when departing the boat.
 
In about 60 years, I've never closed engine seacocks unless the boat was left for some time. If your hoses or other plumbing is done correctly, there's almost zero chance of failure.
I have rebuilt or repaired engines for people that forgot to open their seacocks and didn't notice their gauges or heed their alarm soon enough.
 
It's a routine, batteries off, propane off, fuel off, seacocks closed and check engine oil and coolant while down there, electronics off, doors and windows latched and locked, refrigerator empty and off with door left open unless returning very soon, toilet freshly flushed :) Reverse when coming on board, no problems!

I'd rather discover any issues I might have with my next cruise sooner than later...
 
I leave all mine open. Cycle every few months, and inspect. All easily accessible.
 
I leave mine open. I did replace all the intake hoses so they are in good condition. Also new AWAB double hose clamps on all of them.
 
I leave mine open. I did replace all the intake hoses so they are in good condition. Also new AWAB double hose clamps on all of them.

That got me to thinking. If all the hose clamps failed on you raw water system, can you think of any hoses that would come off while sitting at the dock, engine off? Sure, you may get a little weeping, but would any come off? Most of mine are a fight to get on or off and many are between 2 hose barbs where you would have to bend the hose to get it off. And then there's the wire in most of the suction hoses....

Ted
 
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I replaced the port hoses last year and the starboard hoses this year. I was actually surprised how easily the intake hoses came off. I had to cut the wire in the exhaust hose on the engine but the intake hoses came off very easily. I thought they would be a battle to get them off, but no.
 
I’m of the group who just leaves it open. I inspect the hose and exercise the seacock a couple of times a year.

That said I did sell a fair number of these in my store. I think they were schedule 80 pvc sized to slip over the handle. They also have a slot in them so you can use it to push the handle to horizontal.
https://www.topshelfmarine.com/product/sea-cock-ball-valve-helper/
 

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I’m of the group who just leaves it open. I inspect the hose and exercise the seacock a couple of times a year.

That said I did sell a fair number of these in my store. I think they were schedule 80 pvc sized to slip over the handle. They also have a slot in them so you can use it to push the handle to horizontal.
https://www.topshelfmarine.com/product/sea-cock-ball-valve-helper/

I could use that.
But using a boat hook works fairly well.

And I close my valve if leaving the boat overnight. Now that it’s very well “broken in” it works more easily.
I don’t worry about running w the valve closed. It’s habit now but at times I forget to close the valve. I run my engine about every two weeks in winter.
 
Most of our seacocks are on the seachest and easy to access. Since I’m in the engine room before and after a run anyway—shifting fuel, checking oil levels, etc.—it’s no big deal to just open or close them. Perhaps not necessary, but it’s one less thing to go wrong.
 
I leave all mine open. Cycle every few months, and inspect. All easily accessible.

+1 same here. I can see the boat in the marina from my balcony, and always make sure the antennas are pointing toward the sky while I have my first cup of coffee. I'm on the boat almost daily and first thing I check are the bilge pumps and counters. If I lived farther away or visited the boat less frequently I might do things differently:thumb:
 
Personally, I think that closing engine seacocks whenever you leave your boat is a sure invitation to an overheating situation. (you will eventually forget to open them)

When you find yourself in the bilge for other reasons give the handle a few rotations. Check the hoses once in a while and don't overthink it.

pete
 
Avoiding overheating by some is done by hanging your ignition key on the seacock when closed.


Doesn't work for everyone...but have done it personally and with the assistance towing companies I worked for.
 
I'm sort of in between. No set cadence, but if I know I'm leaving the boat for a while, I'll shut all seacocks. I worry most about the inlet to the head as the bowl rim is within an inch of waterline.

For engine, part of reason I avoided closing seacock is it was very difficult to access. As part of my refit, I've had it moved to a much more accessible location. Whenever I've closed it, I've done as others suggest and hung the ignition key over the handle.

The above said, the most commonly vulnerable intake thru hull I typically see is for AC intake. Often have a cheesy little plastic sea strainer and such. Compared to those, engine intakes are Fort Knox

I can't explain it rationally, but I do feel a bit more relaxed with seacocks in closed position when I know I won't be back to the boat for a while.
 
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