engine winterization tools

[paulga]

I would also prefer a cap with hose , but my strainer does not seem to have threads

I had the room on a previous boat, and was able to just pour the antifreeze directly into the strainer for our gennie. I would imagine that the flow through the funnel would be sufficient for the generator. My HVAC’s lose prime and are not self priming so that is why I use the cap with the hose connection. Since I have it,I’m use it for the generator also.

For the engine, I would recommend the Seaflush. If you look it up on line, you will find videos showing how to use it.

 

[Helmsman]

I would also prefer a cap with hose , but my strainer does not seem to have threads

Yes, those type work better with the Seaflush, but if you can’t fit it in there, you will need to try one of the other options.

 

[paulga]

I measured the strainer cap dia and got two sizes
3.5 and 2.625





They looked very similar to perko strainer flush cup

It turns out the strainers on my boat are indeed perko.


However they offer 3.5, 2.5 and 4.25 in. I wonder if 2.5 cup would fits the 2.625 strainer

Yes, those type work better with the Seaflush, but if you can’t fit it in there, you will need to try one of the other options.

 

[Helmsman]

I measured the strainer cap dia and got two sizes
3.5 and 2.625

View attachment 144655

View attachment 144656

They looked very similar to perko strainer flush cup

It turns out the strainers on my boat are indeed perko.

View attachment 144657
However they offer 3.5, 2.5 and 4.25 in. I wonder if 2.5 cup would fits the 2.625 strainer

I don’t know, Paul. Maybe someone who has those types of through hulls will weigh in.

 

[twistedtree]

If you google the Perko model number that is on the label, you can find the instructions for the strainer listing all the different sizes, and all the replacement part numbers for all the parts.

 

[Helmsman]

Here are a couple of flush options for perko.

https://www.perko.com/images/catalog/catalog_320_pdf/sections/underwater_hardware_catalog_320.pdf

The top option uses water under pressure, which I wouldn’t use. The next one with the hose attachment would allow a gravity feed for the Antifreeze. It also creates more failure points, and if I decided on this approach, I would speak with the Perko folks about failure rates and look at online sources for anecdotal recommendations/cautions.

 

[paulga]

I ordered both 2.5 and 3.5 inch flash cap from the website

I think these caps should allow the pump to draw naturally from a bucket, will call to confirm tomorrow

Here are a couple of flush options for perko.

https://www.perko.com/images/catalog/catalog_320_pdf/sections/underwater_hardware_catalog_320.pdf

The top option uses water under pressure, which I wouldn’t use. The next one with the hose attachment would allow a gravity feed for the Antifreeze. It also creates more failure points, and if I decided on this approach, I would speak with the Perko folks about failure rates and look at online sources for anecdotal recommendations/cautions.

 

[paulga]

In a video, a 3 1/8 in hole saw was used for a "2 in bulkhead fitting". The bulkhead in your link specified 1/2" npt, but this is not the size of the bulkhead?
These fittings also are classed to schedule 40 or 80, each requires different hole sizes.
what size hole saw should be used for this one?

The part that goes through the wall of the bucket is called a Bulkhead Fitting. The picture on the YouTube shows that, then a close nipple (NPT thread), then a ball valve (also NPT), then a barbed NPT to hose adapter.

Here's an example of a 1/2" Bulkhead Fitting.

Rierdge 3 Pack 1/2" NPT Female PVC Bulkhead Fitting, Water Tank Connector with Plugs for Rain Barrels, Aquariums - White (Set of 3) https://a.co/d/e2co9AW

Peter

 

[paulga]

I did engine winterization today.. sort of

Here is my setup:

I made a Rainpal bucket and a 5ft clear garden hose using 3/4" flex hose. The hose takes fluid from the bucket and sends to the strainer via a Perko flush cap. I didn't use gravity feeding, the Rainpal was used to prefill the hose. After prefilling, I put the bucket on the ER floor and put one end of the flex hose into the bucket.



But the ending result is unclear. I had to start the engine 3 times.

The first time I started the engine (idling), 4.5 gallon AF was sucked within one minute, I had to stop the engine then.

Adding more AF, I started the engine the 2nd time. This time the flex hose has long sections of air and the fluid was not flowing. It looks dangerous as I think the sea water pump was continuously pumping water so the flow should be continuous, so I stopped the engine. I remember it also damages the impeller if running dry.

After "priming" the hose and adding all the AF left, I started the engine for the 3rd time. This time AF was moving through the hose continuously. Again, all the AF was sucked within one minute. when the bucket almost dried up and the flow in the hose shows many sections of air, I shut down the engine.

why did the engine drink AF so fast? maybe using the 3/4" flex hose was a mistake?

 

[O C Diver]

why did the engine drink AF so fast? maybe using the 3/4" flex hose was a mistake?

Raw water systems on engines can consume large quantities of water per minute. The Cummins 450 HP originally in my boat, was capable of 60 GPM at WOT.

The Cummins 300 HP in my charter boat would suck down 5 gallons of AF in maybe 15 seconds.

Ted

 

[Mac G]

Just read this thread with interest as we are in a cold (winterization) climate.

Will caution when "gravity feeding" anti-freeze to make sure you are placing your feed bucket the minimum height above whatever intake pump you are feeding, and no more, no higher.

Years ago I made the mistake one time when winterizing a sailboat where the engine was located under the companionway ladder by placing the five gallon feed bucket in the cockpit on the bridge deck just outside the companionway. That placed the full five gallons completely above the entire engine.

All may have been fine if I had immediately started the engine and started the process but I got distracted and left the full bucket sitting there and when I came back I could not start nor turn over the engine!

In the time I was absent the hydrostatic pressure of the antifreeze bucket sitting above the engine pushed the antifreeze past the raw water impeller, filled the system, and then overflowed internally and hydro-locked the engine!

Fortunatley I had decompression levers and was able release those to turn the engine over with the starting motor to expell that anti-freeze, start the engine, and let it run for 15 min off a garden hose filling the bucket placed down below on the cabin sole (not gravity fed and not with city water pressure) to dry it out.

After that, when winterizing, I always placed the bucket on the cabin sole and let the raw water pump suck the anti-freeze from the bucket rather than offering any gravity assist.

So if gravity assisting, don't place your bucket higher than the raw water intake pump.

They say a wise man learns from the mistakes of others so take heed and learn from my boneheaded screw-up.

 

[paulga]

I didn't use gravity feed.
Are you saying it took 15 minutes for the engine to drink 5 gallon AF? A sailboat engine is different from a power boat I guess.

Just read this thread with interest as we are in a cold (winterization) climate.

Will caution when "gravity feeding" anti-freeze to make sure you are placing your feed bucket the minimum height above whatever intake pump you are feeding, and no more, no higher.

Years ago I made the mistake one time when winterizing a sailboat where the engine was located under the companionway ladder by placing the five gallon feed bucket in the cockpit on the bridge deck just outside the companionway. That placed the full five gallons completely above the entire engine.

All may have been fine if I had immediately started the engine and started the process but I got distracted and left the full bucket sitting there and when I came back I could not start nor turn over the engine!

In the time I was absent the hydrostatic pressure of the antifreeze bucket sitting above the engine pushed the antifreeze past the raw water impeller, filled the system, and then overflowed internally and hydro-locked the engine!

Fortunatley I had decompression levers and was able release those to turn the engine over with the starting motor to expell that anti-freeze, start the engine, and let it run for 15 min off a garden hose filling the bucket placed down below on the cabin sole (not gravity fed and not with city water pressure) to dry it out.

After that, when winterizing, I always placed the bucket on the cabin sole and let the raw water pump suck the anti-freeze from the bucket rather than offering any gravity assist.

So if gravity assisting, don't place your bucket higher than the raw water intake pump.

They say a wise man learns from the mistakes of others so take heed and learn from my boneheaded screw-up.

 

[paulga]

The FL135 was idling at 800

How long is expected from turning on the engine to seeing AF from the drain?

Does AC and Genny also behave similarly in winterization?

The YouTube video in post #1 was cut and edited. I cannot tell how long the process actually took.

Raw water systems on engines can consume large quantities of water per minute. The Cummins 450 HP originally in my boat, was capable of 60 GPM at WOT.

The Cummins 300 HP in my charter boat would suck down 5 gallons of AF in maybe 15 seconds.

Ted

 

[Helmsman]

The FL135 was idling at 800

How long is expected from turning on the engine to seeing AF from the drain?

Does AC and Genny also behave similarly in winterization?

The YouTube video in post #1 was cut and edited. I cannot tell how long the process actually took.

My Cummins 6.7 took 9 gallons before the AF showed up in the exhaust. I am pretty certain some of that was clearing the water muffler.

 

[Mac G]

Just need to run it until you see pink (antifreeze) coming out the exhaust to know it has fully gotten through the system.

Ran sailboat engine for 15 minutes with plain water to get it up to temp and completely dry after hydrolocking.

Then shut down, hooked bucket sitting on cabin sole up to raw water pump intake and ran the antifreeze thru - that part took probably less than 30 seconds.

 

[paulga]

Thanks for the number. So it does require starting the engine more than once.

I will redo it next weekend

What hose are you using from the bucket to the strainer flush cap?

I was using 3/4" ID 1 " OD braided clear hose. It's too rigid. I wonder if a 1/2" ID 5/8" OD clear hose can be used? This hose has thinner wall so more easily to bend

My Cummins 6.7 took 9 gallons before the AF showed up in the exhaust. I am pretty certain some of that was clearing the water muffler.

 

[paulga]

Just curious. does that mean to flush the engine using dock water for 15 minutes?

Just need to run it until you see pink (antifreeze) coming out the exhaust to know it has fully gotten through the system.

Ran sailboat engine for 15 minutes with plain water to get it up to temp and completely dry after hydrolocking.

Then shut down, hooked bucket sitting on cabin sole up to raw water pump intake and ran the antifreeze thru - that part took probably less than 30 seconds.

 

[Helmsman]

Thanks for the number. So it does require starting the engine more than once.

I will redo it next weekend

What hose are you using from the bucket to the strainer flush cap?

I was using 3/4" ID 1 " OD braided clear hose. It's too rigid. I wonder if a 1/2" ID 5/8" OD clear hose can be used? This hose has thinner wall so more easily to bend

I use a SeaFlush for the engine. It comes with its own hose. I use an Eco Trac flush cap for the gennie, HVAC, and anchor wash down. I sent you a PM.

 

[paulga]

I use a SeaFlush for the engine. It comes with its own hose. I use an Eco Trac flush cap for the gennie, HVAC, and anchor wash down. I sent you a PM.

My boat doesn't have an Anker wash down system.

What dim of hose do you use with the eco trac flush cap?

 

[Mac G]

On my winterization bucket I rig up the same diameter hose as the raw water intake (seem to recall on that engine it was 3/4").
Then I pull off the hose going to the rawwater pump and attach the winterization bucket hose directly to the raw water pump.
I use cheap flexible plastic hose, not the expesive wire-reinforced stuff needed for below water line installations as it is only a temporary set-up and is not under any pressure.

To run the dock water through during the "dry-out" procedure I simply put a garden hose in the winterization bucket and kept filling it as its water contents got drawn out and through the engine system.

Had to sit there and keep an eye on it and kept filling it as needed, but that was the only way to make sure I would not create the same problem all over again by injecting presurized city water directly into the raw water pump.

 

[paulga]

Thanks for the design.

On my winterization bucket I rig up the same diameter hose as the raw water intake (seem to recall on that engine it was 3/4").
Then I pull off the hose going to the rawwater pump and attach the winterization bucket hose directly to the raw water pump.
I use cheap flexible plastic hose, not the expesive wire-reinforced stuff needed for below water line installations as it is only a temporary set-up and is not under any pressure.

To run the dock water through during the "dry-out" procedure I simply put a garden hose in the winterization bucket and kept filling it as its water contents got drawn out and through the engine system.

Had to sit there and keep an eye on it and kept filling it as needed, but that was the only way to make sure I would not create the same problem all over again by injecting presurized city water directly into the raw water pump.

 

[Helmsman]

My boat doesn't have an Anker wash down system.

What dim of hose do you use with the eco trac flush cap?

They use a water hose fitting. But, that is for the smaller through hull fittings for the HVAc, and generator. The advantage to the flush cap is that you can maintain prime, by vacuuming the water out of the strainer bowl, replacing it with AF, and then gravity feeding the Af and ensuring bubble are out before engaging them. I don’t use a flush cap for the engine, which avoids the hydrolock problem stated above.

 

[paulga]

They use a water hose fitting. But, that is for the smaller through hull fittings for the HVAc, and generator. The advantage to the flush cap is that you can maintain prime, by vacuuming the water out of the strainer bowl, replacing it with AF, and then gravity feeding the Af and ensuring bubble are out before engaging them. I don’t use a flush cap for the engine, which avoids the hydrolock problem stated above.

Does this vinyl tubing work? I want to change the hose because the 3/4" hose that I have is too difficult to bend.

 

[Helmsman]

Does this vinyl tubing work? I want to change the hose because the 3/4" hose that I have is too difficult to bend.

Never used one like that. The only issue may be that it flattens from the pressure.

 

[Mac G]

Yes.
I like the clear stuff so you can see the antifreeze move through it.
Cheap and flexible is better since it is just a temporary part-time rig.

 

[Mac G]

Have never had that type of hose collapse just sucking water from a bucket on the cabin sole.

 

[Mac G]

antifreeze is more slippery than water too

 

[Helmsman]

Yes.
I like the clear stuff so you can see the antifreeze move through it.
Cheap and flexible is better since it is just a temporary part-time rig.

I like the idea of seeing it, too.

 

[Helmsman]

Here are two images of what I use for the smaller through hulls. Works well with no leaks, and the shut off valves on each end along with the quick connect minimizes spills.

 

[paulga]

This is the hose I was using
What a headache to work with it

Are there more pliable clear hoses? It should not maintain its coil shape when hanged