Glueing davits to an achilles inflatable????

[BruceK]

Al, good idea asking Weaver, this must have come up before.
From your description there is more surface making good than I anticipated, and getting the Sika smooth could be an issue, but if it is just apply the Sika and press on the Weaver fitting it might work and have no voids. Guess it depends how attached you are to the dinghy, how old it is, etc if it all goes bad. I just think grinding it with the expectation of creating a hole at each site and having to repair them is not on.
My dinghy is .9mm material and a reputable local brand made in Korea, others now for sale are up to 1.2mm. How thick yours is may be a consideration for sanding it. I suppose there is no solvent to remove the brand patch which won`t also destroy the pvc.

 

[Peter B]

In reading this thread there hasn't been much discussion on PVC material for the tubes.
I just purchased a 10' used PVC RIB and intend to place Weaver Snaps on it.
In checking with Weaver, while the pads that came are Hypalon the tubes are PVC the pads. They will work with the correct glue
There are two formula of glue. For PVC with a different solvent for cleaning and the glue for Hypalon and a different solvent.
So I will have to purchase the correct PVC blue and use Acetone as the cleaner.
Fine now for the second issue and inquiry to those who have installed the pads. In my case, with PVC, the seller of this model-'Endeavor' placed their signage in such a location that installing the pads at a distance apart and balanced on the tube, is impossible.

With PVC unlike Hypalon, heat can not be applied to remove the name plaque. Weaver representative allowed that one can sand down the edges to allow the Weaver pad to flow over the edge. Care with the sanding results must not allow a 'hump' allowing water to enter under the pad. Sounds challenging to be sanding near a surface that specifically speaks to NOT sanding PVC. Even that the offending signage is a rubber material. This begs the question, has any trimmed the pads to clear objects on the tube that were factory installed? With a bit of trimming around each end of the Weaver Pad would allow fitting the pad between said signage and the lifting handle mounted on each tube aft.

Al-Ketchikan

Al, bearing in mind my experience, covered earlier on this thread , I would seriously advise not trying to do this yourself, but take it to an inflatable boat place. If it can be done they will do it, and with some sort of warranty.
It requires special two pac glue and the correct surface preparation. Also, is it possible to place the davit pad somewhere other than over a raised name embossing..? That would be safest even if not absolutely centred. Just a couple of thoughts based on bitter experience. Ask me how I know..?

 

[CWO KPM]

Achilles are all Hypalon. A far superior product.
Ignore any advice you hear of PVC and start over at Hypalon.

 

[CWO KPM]

Our 1985 vintage Achilles looks it's age and needs a recoat but still holds air.

 

[dhays]

When we bought Kinship, she came with a Genesis 310 rib with a Seawise Davit system. The aft handle had been removed on the RIB to allow the placing of the Seawise pad.

So, I have no idea how it was done but only know that it was possible.

 

[Al]

take it to an inflatable boat place. If it can be done they will do it, and with some sort of warranty. is it possible to place the davit pad somewhere other than over a raised name embossing..?

Not available near us or here. Sorry, on the second. moving forward on the tube with the aft pad places is just inches short of center forcing a heavy load on this pad. The forward pad then is going to be carrying a lesser load.
Will wait for the response from the Weaver folks to dictate moving on. I do have a Dermal tool with a grinding bit. With that I can erase all the raised letters. Perhaps then a careful removal of the edges will allow the pad to overlap without air spaces between materials, the PVC and Rubber plaque.

Thanks for the responses, will keep you guys posted.

Al-Ketchikan

 

[Al]

Okay- Have the final response from Weaver folks. Really very helpful lady on the other end. Here we go. Yes, I can grind down the plaque to a point then use sandpaper to eliminate the letters on the manufacture plaque. Take it down to as smooth a surface as possible without going into the PVC surface. The pads will accept a bit of 'Hump'. It need not be perfect, just smooth enough to eliminate sharp edge or 90 degree points where glue would allow air pockets. The PVC glue will adhere to the rubber type material of the plaque.
There we have it! Thanks again Trawler Forum members for contributing.
Al-Ketchikan

 

[Heron]

I adjusted my pads to fit the boat. They weren't necessarily centered. This required a 1" higher bracket on the left so you may have to raise one side or the other and adjust the pivot points in or out. The dingy now is level when raised...

 

[Al]

I adjusted my pads to fit the boat. They weren't necessarily centered. This required a 1" higher bracket on the left so you may have to raise one side or the other and adjust the pivot points in or out. The dingy now is level when raised...


Thanks Steve- Nice installation. Your solution is a part of mine too. Unfortunately the naming plaque still has to be addressed due to the length of the plaque and placement on the tube. As to height adjustment, yes we will have to raise ours 2" or more and plan on having each mount incorporate an extended mounting bar so as to take the mounts out away from the swim step edge.

Al-Ketchikan

 

[CWO KPM]

Very nice job. I dislike dinghies that look like a crooked afterthought.
I also know that the easier it is to use the more you will use it.
Being picky, the boat's name needs to be visible per USCG.

 

[Heron]

Very nice job.
Being picky, the boat's name needs to be visible per USCG.

Thanks! I now have a Name stickered on the rear of the seat up on the bridge.

 

[Al]

Need to add an update to the history of Weaver pads on PVC RIB inflatable.
After two years, one of the pads began a serious issue of lifting. Searching YouTube and Google, no real video or information came out as to successful removal process for taking pads off. Called the good folks at Weaver and the young man gave me information that I thought was 'Forbotten" use heat on the pad to loosen and gently pry loose using a putty knife. It works!! So the biggest issue is solved and I wanted to record the use of heat in the form of a paint removal heatgun. I used high heat and was careful to be aware of not overheating rather allowing the putty knife to set the pace as I worked it into and near the point of heat. Didn't take long. Cleaned the boat with sandpaper to the old glue only. Weaver indicated that rather than challenge the removal of PVC fabric, removal of as much of the glue with lite sanding and the use of MEK toluene. On the pad I used a belt sander to remove all or most of the old glue. As soon as the glue kit from Weaver arrives I will proceed. The recommendation by the young man was to deflate the tube, flat and once the pad is applied, work the flat of the tube and the flat of the pad with a plastic handled screwdriver to remove air and assist with the two surfaces being in total contact.
Will report on the finished job. Will be away for a couple of weeks so the glue setting will have sufficient time to heal.

Al=Ketchikan

 

[dhays]

Thanks Al. I have a similar issue on my dink. I tried to reglue the lifting portions with very little success. Looks like removal of the pad will be my next step.

 

[ctjstr]

Thanks Al. I have a similar issue on my dink. I tried to reglue the lifting portions with very little success. Looks like removal of the pad will be my next step.

dave
let us know when you get that done. I'll drop mine off over in the harbor and maybe you can take care of it for me?

toni

 

[CaptTom]

Same issue here, awaiting your results. Thank you!!!

 

[Al]

Same issue here, awaiting your results. Thank you!!!

Will gladly share, I noted that I failed to name the material. Our RIB is PVC and that is why the subject of using heat always a no no, apparently if applied with a soft hand and eye on the willingness of the pad to separate, the heat is not doing damage. Anyway, the tube looks perfect as it awaits the kit.

Al-Ketchikan

 

[Rufus]

The gent in the slip next to us has about a 10 foot hard bottom inflatable. It's attached to a 39' Sea Ray with Weaver stap davits. The motor is removed before pivoting the dink on it's side over the swim platform. He was having a problem with water leaking into the void between the fiberglass hull and the fiberglass floor. It was not getting in past the new drain plug. After some troubleshooting, we pressurized that void (with air) and sprayed soapy water along the edge where the tube is glued to the hull bottom. We found air leaking at that tube-to-hull glued joint...and it was directly opposite from the location of the davit pads (higher up on the tube). The only possible way to have a leak into the void between the two bonded fiberglass sections was if both the tube/hull attach line and the bond between the floor and bottom fiberglass sections were leaking. And sure enough we found multiple stress cracks in the fiberglass opposite the davit pad as well is gaps in the tube/hull bond. We "fixed" the leaks with a roll of that miracle tape advertised on TV (the stuff where they saw a boat in half and then tape it back together). But this does point to an eventual failure of the dinghy's structural integrity caused by use of that type of attaching mechanism.

 

[chc]

We have a Mercury hypalon 10'6 dink; now at least 9 yrs old. We mount it on the Weaver snap system to the swim platform. First lift this year, the lifeline brackets snapped in half at the top. We use a line to the the lifeline as our pull up attachment. Repairs consisted of screwing/glueing the brackets back together, & attaching a "D" ring pad to the tube for the lift line. also attached handles to the tubes to give the crew something to hold onto. Based on previous repair experience with the boat, we used West system G-Flex as our adhesive. Prep is similar: clean, light sand and apply. No particular worries with humidity, etc. Prior repairs to the Weaver pads have held up well for three years, so I am hopefully confident that these will as well

 

[what_barnacles]

In the end I just left the part that is meant to be glued to the dinghy attached to the snap fittings on the duckboard ('swhat we call them), and use them as a buffer to swing the dinghy up against when we retrieve via a simple block and tackle arrangement clipped to the grab rope on the far side. I just loop the near side grab ropes, which are very stoutly fitted at three places along each side, over the hook part of the duck-board fitting, then pivot the dinghy up sideways and the pad that was meant to be glued to the ducky just protects the side of the dinghy from the metal hook-like projection as it then rests against it. Sounds complicated to describe - works well in practice and dead simple in practice, and no more gluing. However, if you don't have ropes along each side, you have no choice but to make the b**** glue work...

Any chance of a couple of pics showing how it all works? I need to find a decent way of mounting a dinghy on my platform.

 

[Bob Nala]

Has anyone found a glue to affix pads to the floor of a RIB?

 

[Comodave]

Has anyone found a glue to affix pads to the floor of a RIB?

We bought a dinghy for a previous boat. They used 5200 to attach the pads and brackets to the inside of the hull. Had no problems with it.

 

[Andy G]

Glass or aluminium floor?

 

[Comodave]

Glass.

 

[Bob Nala]

I did try the 5200 Dave. Sanded area and cleaned with MEK. Also done in garage so temp and humidity were fine. Allowed to cure for a couple of months. Failed an hour after raised on davit.

 

[Comodave]

5200 needs moisture in order to cure. I always put some wet rags around the fitting and keep them wet for at least a couple of weeks. Without enough moisture 5200 will sit there and just not cure. It is rated about 400psi so it should hold if it does cure. I did a transducer in a boat in Tucson, the relative humidity was about 7% and 5200 would not cure, just sat there. I did the wet rag trick and it went off fine. We just put a swim platform extension on our boat this winter and I kept wetting the rags for about a month so the 5200 would be cured when we launch.

 

[Bob Nala]

Broke down and bought some Stabond. Ill keep you posted.
Thanks for the replies.